IN-DEPTH: Exploring 3 eras of the Rolex Datejust – Part 2

Rolex Datejust historyFind Part 1 of the Rolex Datejust history right here. A Power Watch in 1989: The Reference 16233 A good example of the historical adaptability of the Datejust came with the reversal of world fortunes in the 1980s. There were the literal fortunes made by young traders on Wall Street but also the overall optimism drawn from events of the decade leading up to the fall of communism in Eastern Europe. It was a good time to be Rolex (was there ever a bad time?), who used the energy of the time to evolve the Datejust into the reference 16233 you see here. This particular example is a vibrant and expressive combination, which in my mind completely sums up a lot of the cultural surge and individualism of the ’80s while eschewing some of the more questionable lapses in taste. In contrast to the earlier 1601, this Datejust streamlines the visuals in the form of a slim sapphire crystal and flat dial. The necessary quality textures are still present via the slightly more substantial fluted bezel and the geometrically perfect gold bar hour markers, which have lume plots subtly integrated into their ends. Mobile phones, personal computers and fax machines…

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8 hours ago

Join us at our first ever 'Indie Explorer' night at Time+Tide HQ in Melbourne

Friday, February 28 will be our first ‘Indie Explorer’ night at Time+Tide HQ, with a number of small, lesser-known brands on hand for exploration. They are Laventure, Lundis Bleus, Eza and, of course, DOXA, for whom we are the proud distributor in Australia. We will have a (increasingly) limited range to discover, as well as a quiet drink or two. One watch you’ll want to see in the metal is the Laventure Sous-Marine Steel Green, which is, as of just this week, completely sold out. This is the last model for sale anywhere in the world. The other brands will be presented by the man behind ‘Geneva Blue’, Rob Kitto. Rob is a storied watch guy, whose journey is probably worth coming along to hear about on its own. To be there, please RSVP at this link: As a quick refresher, here is some information about the brands we will be exploring: Laventure Founded in 2017 by Clément Gaud, a native Swiss with a background in horological and automotive design, Laventure is, as the company’s motto states, a maker of “Timepieces for Explorers”. The watches aesthetically draw inspiration from some of the archetypal professional model steel sports watches of the…

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20 hours ago

Introducing – The Timor Heritage Field, a Faithful yet Accessible Reissue of a ‘Dirty Dozen’ Watch

If you have any interest in vintage watches, and specifically military-issued pieces, the terms ‘Dirty Dozen‘ and ‘WWW’ should be familiar to you. Among the twelve brands that supplied the British MoD (Ministry of Defense) with watches during WWII was Timor Watch Company… which was re-incorporated in the United Kingdom in 2019, with something pretty […]

21 hours ago

Why it's so challenging to paint a Franck Muller dial

franck muller dialEditor’s note: Franck Muller are known for their incredibly complex movements, wonderfully curved case designs, and brightly coloured dials. But did you know that each Franck Muller dial is hand-painted? That’s right, there is a dedicated dial painter with a very steady hand, who is responsible for adding that characteristic splash of colour to the wrists of collectors around the world. Time+Tide went head-to-head with Franck Muller to see who could paint the better dial — you be the judge of who won …  I’m not above admitting it. I’m more than just a bit painful when it comes to painted versus printed dials. “Is this painted or printed?” is a question I’ve asked countless times. Receiving countless eye-rolls, I might add. And, full disclosure, I’ve always assumed that the colour, paint volume and line-perfect proportions of Franck Muller dials are the latter. Printed. But when I attended the Franck Muller ‘chalet’ (such a more appropriate descriptor than ‘manufacture’) for a second time, early in 2017, I asked the question and was met with a very different answer, which also happened to be a question. “They’re painted,” said my soon-to-be nemesis from Franck Muller, Laura Bondi. “Would you like to try painting…

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23 hours ago

Introducing – Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Passion, Now in Racing Red

Introduced earlier this year during the Festival Automobile International in Paris, this Laureato Absolute Passion is decked out in racing red and sleek black livery to celebrate the brand’s partnership with the event. A limited edition of 50 watches, this chronograph joins the edgier, more contemporary Laureato Absolute watch sub-family distinguished by black PVD-coated titanium […]