HANDS-ON: The Bell & Ross BR V2-94 Garde Cotes

For most brands a round 41mm steel chronograph would be unremarkable, but this Bell & Ross stands out precisely because of these features – it’s not an oversize square watch crafted from ceramic or some other highly technical material, which is what we’ve come to expect from Bell & Ross. Even though the BR V2-94 Garde Cotes is a far more ‘conventional’ design, don’t fall into the trap of assuming that it doesn’t stand out. There’s a lot here to please the eye – a well-balanced twin-register dial, glossy black bezel and a soft-grey and washed-out orange colour scheme to die for. While you could be forgiven for thinking that the orange hand and chapter ring on a matte-grey background are a nod to the funky sports watches of the ’70s, the truth is a little more on-brand for Bell & Ross. The aviation-focused brand has taken inspiration from the helicopters of of the French Coast Guard – or Garde Cotes – for this chronograph, which explains the choice of pulsometer scale. With it’s well-made bracelet, screw-down pushers, crown guard, 100 metres of water resistance and ever-reliable BR-CAL.302 (based on a Sellita SW300-1), the BR V2-94 Garde Cotes is an excellent…

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7 years ago

IN-DEPTH: The Rolex Sky-Dweller comes down to earth

The story in a second It’s one of the hottest watches of 2017, and here’s why… For years, the Sky-Dweller has been one of the most interesting and least understood modern Rolexes. It’s one of the most complicated watches in their lineup, as a luxury traveller’s watch, and is the patrician elder brother of the tool-like GMT-Master II. This niche proposition, along with its solid gold offering, always made it something of an outsider Rolex. Until now. The case In some ways the case of the Sky-Dweller remains identical to the version released in 2012, but viewed a different way, the changes to the big 42mm case represent the single biggest shift to the model, which has seen it rocket to the top of many a fan’s list. It’s all about the material. For the first five years of its life, the Sky-Dweller existed only in precious metals: white, yellow or Everose gold. Not only did this place the watch into a premium price bracket, but it was also every inch the solid gold Rolex — unavoidably so with that large, fluted bezel. But, as Baselworld 2017 rolled around and the Rolesor Sky-Dwellers were unveiled, the proposition suddenly changed. Fifty…

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7 years ago

IN-DEPTH: Ostentatiously stealthy – the Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Unico in carbon

The story in a second Got a blacked-out 488 rolling in and looking for the perfect watch to match? Read on. Hublot are masters of both the high-level partnership and the limited edition. Both of these traits are very much to the fore in their freshest round of Ferrari-themed Big Bangs. I recently had the pleasure of spending some time with this not at all under-the-radar carbon version. The case When the Big Bang was first introduced way back in 2005, it was simultaneously outré and appealing. These days the large and (dare we say) iconic modern sports watch is very much an accepted part of the landscape. But familiarity hasn’t lessened the potency of the Big Bang as, like many great designs, it’s a surprisingly malleable canvas, where almost every single element can be changed, while still managing to be clearly recognisable from 10 paces. These days the large and (dare we say) iconic modern sports watch is very much an accepted part of the landscape. But familiarity hasn’t lessened the potency of the Big Bang. Key to this versatility is the case. The modular construction and Hublot’s own dedication to their Art of Fusion design approach means that the…

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7 years ago

IN-DEPTH: Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono – greater than the sum of its parts?

The story in a second The Black Bay gets complicated and Tudor adds a surprising twist in the movement… Over the years Tudor has proved their mastery of a particular genre of historically revisionist bricolage – most obviously through their fan-favourite diver, the mighty Black Bay. Except now that straight up diver classification doesn’t sit so easy. The 36 and 41 models add a dressy touch, and the Chrono brings a hefty dose of sporty style to the mix. So perhaps the real question is: does the pick and mix approach, which serves Tudor so well with the relatively restrained palette of the ‘regular’ Black Bays – work with this more complicated offering? And then, of course, there’s that movement… The case The 41mm steel case of the BB Chrono is at once familiar and unfamiliar. The shape and high, slab-like sides are classic Black Bay, but the additional pushers and tachymetre bezel are new to the family and quite unfamiliar. Except that they’re kind of not. If you punch “Tudor 79180” into Google you’ll find countless examples of the ‘Big Block’ chronograph, first introduced in 1976 (six years after their first chronograph, the Prince Oysterdate) which shares the engraved steel bezel…

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7 years ago

HANDS-ON: A softer shape – the Bulgari Octo Roma

“When in Rome, do as the Romans do”, rather ironically, is not a saying that appears to be said very often around the watch design department at Bulgari. In the last few years the brand’s unique Octo collection has thrust them to the forefront of watch manufacturing, not only technically – with record-breaking pieces like the thinnest tourbillon, the thinnest minute repeater, and the thinnest automatic movement – but aesthetically as well, with unique eight-sided case designs inspired by the octagonal motifs adorning the domed ceilings of the Basilica of Maxentius in Rome. This year, creating what Bulgari refer to as the “fifth element” of the Octo line, they have released the Octo Roma, with a softer take on this bold, masculine case design. Less square and more round, the 41mm case has been reworked, with its lugs narrowed to 32.5mm, emphasising the circular bezel and greatly reducing the number of facets from 110 to 58. However, the Octo’s iconic case shape is not lost. Instead, the Octo Roma has brought the design back to its purest form, the octagon, but in a more rounded way. Available in steel, 18k pink gold, or a combination of both, the Octo Roma is…

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7 years ago

HANDS-ON: Undeniably impressive – the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang 45mm Sapphire

The Spirit Of Big Bang is one of my favourite lines from Hublot. Partially that’s down to my occasionally contrarian nature wanting to stand out from the regular Big Bang herd, but mostly it’s because I find the large and in charge tonneau case shape is a perfect complement to the brand’s Art of Fusion philosophy. I’ve worn the 45mm King Gold Spirit, and the smaller 43mm titanium moonphase version and enjoyed them both immensely. They’re imposing-yet-fun on the wrist, and this all sapphire version takes the concept to the next level. This is a Statement watch with a capital S (and perhaps capitalised a-t-e-m-e-n-t as well) and it takes a certain confidence to pull off. A level of confidence that to be honest, I’m not sure I possess. Then again, I suspect wearing this would function as a pretty effective confidence booster in its own right. It’s not just the seemingly impossible sapphire case that makes this such an impressive watch — it’s the case material combined with the shape and size. Tonneau cases are uncommon and hard to get right. Because of this most stick to the sapphire territory of round watches, and Hublot – with its now…

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7 years ago

VIDEO: Tudor pares it back with the Black Bay Steel

I’m on record as being quite a fan of the Black Bay Steel. For me, it was one of the real highlights of Baselworld 2017. At first this might seem like a bit of an odd choice as the BB Chrono and S&G were the ‘buzzier’ pieces. For me, though, the Steel takes the Black Bay back to what it’s all about — the core of the collection. At its heart, this watch isn’t overly complicated or flashy. It’s a robust, everyday diver with a healthy dose of nostalgia thrown in. And that’s what the Steel delivers in spades. By removing colour from the equation it brings the purposeful design to the fore. I might go so far as to say it’s my favourite Black Bay of all time. Big call, but I’m happy to go there.

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7 years ago

HANDS-ON: A charming surprise – the Oris Big Crown 1917 

Oris has developed a bit of a reputation for consistently releasing surprising vintage-inspired pieces. Having said that, their Big Crown 1917 is a little more surprising than most. That’s partly because Oris had no idea the watch that inspired it existed — this little piece of Hölstein history has been sitting in their archives, quietly gathering patina. Happily, someone (who deserves a promotion, just quietly) at Oris noticed it and recognised the potential of their first pilot’s watch, just in time for its 100th anniversary. Not a foot has been put wrong with the Big Crown 1917; all the elements work in harmony and there’s precisely the right blend of idiosyncratic charm and everyday comfort. The 40mm steel case resembles a converted pocket watch, rounded and pebble-like, with a nicely domed sapphire crystal and onion crown. The dial is warmly retro, with a finely grained silver base with old-school railroad chapter ring, and stylised serif Arabics filled with creamy SuperLuminova that neatly matches the blued steel cathedral hands. Purists can also breathe a sigh of relief as there’s no date window to mar the purity of the style. Oris also gets major kudos for that little button at two —…

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7 years ago

IN-DEPTH: Is the Seiko Prospex SLA017 62MAS re-creation their best dive watch ever?

The story in a second The most eagerly awaited dive watch release from Seiko…ever? Seiko were relative latecomers to the professional dive watch game, coming some 10 years after the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and the Rolex Submariner. Released in 1965, the legendary Seiko 62MAS (ref. 6217) was Japan’s first professional dive watch and inspired a long tradition of Seiko divers that has seen the brand release some of the most widely used and respected divers on the market. In fact, some of Seiko’s own design innovations contributed to the foundation of the ISO 6425 dive watch standards. So, when the news leaked, that Seiko were finally answering the prayers and wishes of collectors by releasing a re-creation of the iconic 62MAS, the watch world was abuzz with excitement. Was it true? Were the pictures fake? Will they accept MasterCard? All was revealed at Baselworld 2017, when Seiko unveiled one of their most faithful vintage reissues ever, the Prospex SLA017. In fact, if you spotted someone wearing the modern re-creation, you would have a hard time distinguishing it from the original, without resorting to some expert level wrist stalking. The case The SLA017 is an almost exact duplicate of the original…

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7 years ago

HANDS-ON: The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Horograph

Earlier this year Bell & Ross released a pair of their trademark square watches that demonstrated quite a different take on their perennial aviation theme. The BR 03-92 Horolum, a slab of grey metal, was inspired by an airport’s tarmac. This version, the BR 03-92 Horograph, takes a similarly pedestrian inspiration — the ubiquitous and useful airport clock. As you can imagine, legibility is the aim of the game here, with stark white printed baton indices and broad stick hands set against a matt black dial. A red-tipped second hand, date at four and a discreet minute track complete the picture. The triangular marker at 12 is a nod to the classic layout of pilot’s watches. The 42mm steel case is bead-blasted, a nice utilitarian finish that well suits the functional feel of the watch. On the wrist, the Horograph wears much like Bell & Ross’ other instrument watches, which is unsurprising given the shared case. It feels quite different from the military-inspired watches B&R are best known for. Its focus is a little less macho and a little more design, which is a nice change up. The Horograph comes on a rubber strap, which is in keeping with the brand’s…

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7 years ago