Review – Habring2 Doppel-Felix (by the man who created the IWC Doppelchronograph)

In 2012 Habring² introduced the Doppel 2.0, an affordable split-seconds chronograph based on a Valjoux 7750 chronograph. This was the same recipe that Richard Habring once developed for IWC Schaffhausen, who used this movement first in the Pilot Doppel Chronograph and later in other watches. When the patent expired, in 2012, Richard Habring was free to use this complication in watches with the Habring² name on the dial, and that led to the Habring² Doppel 2.0. In 2013 they introduced the Doppel 3.0 and last year Habring² introduced the new Doppel-Felix that comes with an in-house split-seconds chronograph from Austria. Here’s the Habring² Doppel-Felix!

6 years ago

HANDS-ON: Vintage style, solid build and lume for days – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II

The watch industry is a well-oiled novelty-making machine. Every year it produces a sea of new releases that quickly turns the tide of attention from the old towards the latest and greatest in the world of watchmaking. Occasionally, though, it’s nice to stop and look back on the watches that we might have missed. Watches like this one: the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II. With a brand history that dates back to the American railroad in 1891, and more than a couple of technically nifty details, I quickly jumped at the chance to try one out in the metal. Vital statistics Released in 2015, the design of the Skindiver II is inspired by a 1962 version of the Ball Skindiver, retaining the classic look of the Skindiver case, and upsizing it to 43mm wide and 14mm thick. With the larger case comes an improved water resistance of 500 metres, as well as a helium escape valve, a shock resistance of 5000Gs, and an antimagnetic rating of 4800 A/m. However, the shining star is its multidimensional black dial and the 15 double-sized micro gas tubes that form the hour markers and glowing elements of the hands. Unlike a coating of lume,…

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6 years ago

HANDS-ON: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph

Let’s be real here. Ever since we saw the new Laureato last year, we knew the chronograph version was inevitable. After all, what’s a luxury sports watch without the option of the default sports complication? There’s no doubt that this good-looking sporty option is the brand’s commercial focus, so it makes sense that a veritable bevy of chronograph models was released at SIHH 2018. Offered in 38 or 42mm, in steel or pink gold, strap or bracelet, and a range of dials (including a real cool black with blue registers option), there might not quite be something for everyone, but you’re certainly spoiled for choice. I opted to look at what is perhaps the safest/most classic of the combos: 42mm, steel, blue dial on bracelet. Honestly, it’s a winning combination right out of the gate, but it’s the details that make it. Let’s kick off with the dial, the hobnail texture is familiar and looks good. There’s contrast thanks to the circular grain on the chrono registers, as well as the brighter blue hands and indices, which really go full-on electric in the right light. I’m sure the date at four will grind the gears of some reading this, but…

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6 years ago

MY YEAR WITH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 ‘Grey Phantom’ 

For those who know me and my taste in watches a little bit, the fact that I own a TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 typically comes as a bit of a surprise, as there’s a perception that I like the simpler, smaller things in watch life. For those who know me and my history in watches a little better, the fact that I’m rocking a big, bold, skeletonised chronograph raises no eyebrows at all. But personal preferences aside, if you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to spend some quality time with the Heuer 01, you’ve come to the right place. My first impression was … whoa, that’s a whole lot of watch. I first saw the Heuer 01 when it was released, back in 2015. It was a watch that was presented as the face of Jean-Claude Biver’s ‘new’ TAG Heuer, and boy did it look the part. Large, modular and aggressively skeletonised. The Carrera DNA was still there, but the Heuer 01 was very much its own beast. And while my original focus was on the ceramic bezel version with red highlights, the watch I ended up strapping onto my wrist was this, the Grey Phantom, which removed any hint…

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6 years ago

IN-DEPTH: The Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT Titanium

The story in a second: A funky and practical Hublot packed with style and substance. Launched early last year in Geneva, the Big Bang Unico GMT — which technically is a dual time zone watch and not a true GMT, as there’s no hand running on a 24-hour scale — is the first arrival in the Big Bang family with a multiple time zone indication, powered by a then new in-house caliber with a few tricks up its sleeve. Offered in King Gold, carbon, and titanium casing options, we were instantly drawn to the relatively understated appearance of the titanium model. Practical and understated aren’t often words that come to mind when the name Hublot is part of the conversation (case in point, the recently launched Unico Red Magic chronograph), giving us further grounds to dive into the new piece to see if it has the chops to convert some of those less keen on the perpetually polarising brand. The case Being part of the Big Bang line, the case of the Unico GMT Titanium is business as usual for the most part. A mix of polished and brushed finishing (though Hublot refers to it as “satin” finishing), blue and…

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6 years ago

HANDS ON: An affordable, colourful two-timer – the Farer Lander GMT Automatic

Having previously reviewed the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla, I thought it was time to explore some more of the British microbrand’s offerings. Enter the Farer Lander GMT Automatic, one of three pieces within Farer’s GMT Automatic range. As I unboxed the Lander, the first thing that grabbed my attention was the dial. Farer describes the colour as ‘sea green’, which, when you think about it, is quite an accurate description. Bursting with colour, the dial has a sunburst-style finishing, meaning the moment you walk outside into the sunlight it takes on a new appearance. This was my favourite feature of the watch and looked great when contrasted with the dark brown strap. There’s a lot of other detail in the dial, which Farer refer to as a ‘triple step dial’. The bold font of the hour numerals features a SuperLuminova outline, which adds an additional layer of depth and colour to the vibrant orange GMT hand that follows a smaller 24-hour clock around the dial. Finishing off the dial is a gunmetal silver outer rim, which is home to the second track. Although there’s plenty going on here, the dial doesn’t at all feel clustered, and remains legible — even in…

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6 years ago

Review – Seiko Prospex Diver 300m Hi-Beat SLA025 – The Ultimate Collectible Seiko Dive Watch?

While in 2017 Seiko re-issued its first professional dive watch with the SLA017, based on the 62Mas, this year the brand celebrates the 50th anniversary of another icon, the first hi-beat diving instrument ever created, the mighty 1968 Ref. 6159-7001. With this new Seiko Prospex Diver 300m Hi-Beat SLA025, the Japanese brand again brings a watch that no one can question in terms of style (it has been almost unanimously praised), yet at a price of EUR 5,500, some were doubtful about its positioning. So it’s time to go hands-on, to see it in the metal and to understand why this SLA025 is not your usual Seiko Prospex dive watch.

6 years ago

Review – Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph 42mm: the need for speed

The Polaris Chronograph is one of the five members of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new 2018 Polaris collection. To date, we have seen the new Polaris Geographic World Time and reviewed the entry-level Polaris Automatic, the vintage-inspired Polaris Date and Polaris Memovox models. To complete the pentalogy, we’ll take a look at the Polaris Chronograph. The sportiest of the newcomers, this 42mm …

6 years ago

Review – The Rolex GMT-Master II 126711 CHNR – “Root Beer” 2.0

If you love authentic tool watches, then you were probably pretty happy with Rolex this year. With all the hype surrounding the unveiling of the highly anticipated Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi” 126710 BLRO in steel, however, you may have missed that the company also introduced two other GMT Master II models at Baselworld. Both feature the brand’s proprietary 18ct Everose gold – the first time it’s ever been used in this range – and both channel the spirit of a rather quirky model from the 1960’s, affectionately referred to as the “Root Beer” GMT. Today we’re going hands-on with the two-tone/Rolesor version – the GMT-Master II 126711 CHNR – to see how it matches up against its legendary ancestor.

6 years ago

Review – Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance in Stainless Steel

Recently, I’ve had the good fortune to wear the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance for a few weeks. This watch is one of the most revolutionary horological developments of recent years – or even decades – and seeing it in action on the wrist has been a sheer pleasure. The visual treat of wearing this timepiece on the wrist is so mesmerising that it can distract you from daily (boring) activities and even provoke daydreaming.

6 years ago