INSIGHT: Exploring Chanel’s watchmaking – the movements
It’s seven years since Chanel Horlogerie decided to start developing its own movements in-house and in the last three of those years it has launched three new calibres – or four, when counting Calibre 2.1 separately. Each is strikingly different from anything offered by other haute horlogerie brands – and all are noticeably different from each other. That’s due to Chanel’s singular approach to watchmaking, which does not follow the usual path of “making engines to then put into various cases”, says Nicolas Beau, the global head of watchmaking and fine jewellery. “We think of a collection or model at the same time as we think of a calibre because there is a very strong intimacy between the two. It’s one calibre per model. So the first thing we do is imagine a calibre that has the capacity to evolve. And that creates another difficulty, which is that we must try to envision how we want a model to evolve, and in which direction the movements can evolve for it – not just technically but aesthetically as well.” That’s because, in Chanel’s way of thinking, the aesthetic side is the leader and decision-maker. The creative team first draws the movement,…
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This week our feeds have been blowing up with all the hot new lewks from Florence as the #menswear and #influencer brigade descended for Pitti Immagine Uomo 94 — a trade show that seems, from the outside at least, to be more about lounging around faux-casually, in immaculate, over-the-top outfits. These guys are known collectively as peacocks. And we thought we’d help out these Pitti Peacocks by selecting some of the finest au current timepieces for their sartorial needs. And then we thought we’d find some real world examples too … Check out this #dapper #gent in his #sartorial #tailoring. He’s got it going on. Not only is he flexing in his Redford-as-Gatsby-esque double breaster, but dude has a feather in his hat AND an earring. A style pirate if ever I saw one. And what do pirates love more than sailing boats and maritime violence? Gold, they love gold. So we found the perfect gold watch to complement — and not outshine — his look, the sandblasted Bulgari Octo Finissimo. Bonus points for being an Italian brand, because #italiansdoitbetter Next up is this fella, who I’m calling Dapper Dan the Man in Tan. He’s busy living his best safari life.…
Mark Wahlberg, eh. This guy! Actor, entrepreneur and unfettered watch lover who doesn’t care — not even a tiny bit — about what you think of his horological choices. And with his exciting combination of lack of you-know-whats to give and a surplus of funds comes the kind of freedom that allows his wrist to live its best life, just about every day. What does he wear? He’s got the right stuff, baby; often iced out, sometimes gem-set, near always gold or platinum. It’s a gangster’s paradise, and with yet more shots of his baller collection flooding the socials today, it’s time we recapped the four watches he wears that leaves steel sports watches in the dust. 1. This platinum Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116576TBR with gem-set bezel and diamond dial Note the boss-town move of pairing a super dressy watch with a solid colour T-shirt, which gives it a black, blank canvas to shine on. Several levels above. 2. A Rolex Day-Date 40 “Green Emerald” 228396TEM with diamond dial and green gem-set bezel and feature indices The perfect St Patrick’s Day watch for this Boston native. And that’s probably what it was, too. You’re wearing a leprechaun hat. Marky Mark’s wearing this. *Commence the shame* 3. A…