Hands-on – Frederique Constant Classics 24H – An Unusual (and affordable) Approach to Consulting the Time
There is no stopping the steady flow of models emerging from Frederique Constant, all steeled for battle in the mid-price arena. The latest Classic Automatic 24H, equipped with a 24-hour function, joins the well-populated Classics collection and will retail for under EUR 1,000. My first take on the newcomer was that this was a practical GMT watch, designed for men on the move. But where was the additional hand to read the second time zone? FC’s new watch is a bit of a mind teaser and presents a different way of reading the hours based on a 24-hour format. Instead of the standard hour hand advancing in 12 increments of one hour twice a day, the hand is slowed down to half its regular speed to read the 24-hour disc on the dial. Once you have got your mind around the fact that the hour hand makes one rotation a day and not two, things start to make sense.
At first glance, Panerai’s watches share a reassuring familiarity — large cases, large crown guards and a dial design that puts legibility front and centre. A close look at the catalogue will show that the brand born from its Italian diving heritage has quite a lot of diversity on offer, particularly when it comes to case materials. From bronze to ceramic and (most recently) Bulk Metallic Glass, Panerai has strong form when it comes to material innovation. And today we’re having a closer look at one of the most interesting examples from recent times: Carbotech. Before we talk about the case material, let’s step back for a second and look at the bigger picture. PAM00616 is a 47mm Luminor Submersible, one of the brand’s beefiest cases, good for 300m of depth, and a standout thanks to the solid dive bezel and that patented crown guard. The watch is impressive on the inside, too, with a big P.9000 calibre ticking away, a double-barrelled beauty that’s good for three days of power. It’s a watch that you might reasonably expect to weigh the wrist down. But it doesn’t. That’s where the Carbotech comes in. Aside from its obvious visual charms, Carbotech is…
To my mind, the watches coming out of Hublot’s partnership with contemporary artist Richard Orlinski have been some of the brand’s most striking. The bold, geometric look manages to be both in keeping with Hublot’s design ethos, while looking on-trend. At the heart of this, Orlinski’s appeal is the facets, which allows the typically blocky case of the Classic Fusion to play with light and shade in intriguing ways. This titanium-cased Alternative Pavé version of the Orlinski takes the faceted concept to the next level by adding 312 finely faceted diamonds into the mix. There are 156 diamonds, set in two rows on the bezel, and a further 156 set into the case. The total weight of the stones is around 2 carats. The fully set bezel certainly provides a very pretty frame for the skeletonised dial, but for me it’s the rocks on the case that stand out. Seemingly random, alternating facets have been pavé set (giving the watch its name), with the diamond-free titanium surfaces polished to a high, mirror-like shine. The effect is, quite frankly, stunning. Now, I know stones on watches aren’t to everyone’s taste, and I understand why. Often, the use of diamonds is done…
