HANDS-ON: A classic, redefined – The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 in steel
Forget the fuss about the Sea-Dweller and the palaver over the Sky-Dweller, the real Rolex of 2017 is the Datejust 41 in steel. On the surface, the reasons might not be immediately obvious. After all, the Datejust 41 isn’t new (it was released last year in yellow and Everose Rolesor versions), and its looks are almost the very definition of classic. But despite this – or because of it – we’re confident in predicting that the steel Datejust 41 will be one of their most popular models this year. Let’s step back for just a second. What is a Datejust 41, and where does it fit in the Rolex ecosystem? Well, the second part of the equation, the 41, is simple enough — it refers to the 41mm case size. But the Datejust itself requires a jot more explanation. Originally introduced way back in 1945, the Datejust is a prime example of one of the quiet revolutions that make Rolex the powerhouse it is today. The innovation of the Datejust was that the date ‘jumped’ at midnight, rather than slowly dragging across over a few hours. Simple, but significant. Add to this the iconic elements of the Oyster Case, Cyclops…
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When I first saw the new gold Daytonas at Basel, I didn’t quite know what to make of them. After the phenomenal success of last year’s new steel and Cerachrom Daytona, further extension of the line seemed inevitable, and precious metals the logical step. But I did not expect – and was somewhat confused by – the choice to pair these yellow, white and Everose gold Daytonas with an Oysterflex bracelet. Add to this the fact that I was feeling some pretty intense feelings about the new Sea-Dweller and Sky-Dweller, and it’s fair to say that I didn’t give these new models the attention they deserved. Well, that changed last week when I got to spend time with some new pieces here at home, and while the shine hadn’t worn off the two ’Dwellers, I found myself coming back, again and again, to the yellow gold Daytona. It’s a decidedly modern take on the powerhouse chronograph, with its high-contrast black and gold colour scheme and blend of materials including ceramic, gold and rubber. While the upgrade to Cerachrom is significant, that’s something we’re all pretty familiar with now; instead it’s the Oysterflex that radically changes what this watch is, and…
TAG Heuer has pulled off a minor miracle with the Link. They’ve taken one of their most recognisable designs, one synonymous with the ‘90s, and made it relevant in 2017. They’ve achieved this by focusing on the most important part of the watch – the bracelet. Link actually began life as a bracelet back in 1987, and the intertwining ’s’ shape links are instantly recognisable. TAG Heuer has made the smart move of toning down the sportiness. This Link is dressy, with a well-sized 41mm cushion-shaped case, and brings the model firmly into the realm of dressy sports. It’s a wonderful watch on the wrist, a playful combination of light and shadow that’s beguiling. And while it’s likely that we’ll start seeing complications of the Link down the track, for now it’s only available as a simple three-handed piece. This version is priced at $3700. 
When I hear the words Bell & Ross, I immediately picture square watches inspired by flight instruments – watches like the iconic BR01 or its smaller cousin, the BR03. And I’m sure I’m not alone. There is, however, another side to the Bell & Ross family. With classic looks and traditional round cases, the Vintage collection draws its inspiration from the history of aviation. Designed to meet military specifications set by the armed forces, this collection has legibility, functionality and precision high on the list of “must haves”. Given these requirements, it’s not completely unexpected that this, the latest vintage-inspired chronograph, bears a resemblance to other brands’ versions of flight spec’d chronographs. Having said that, the DNA of the Vintage BR V2-94 is still very much Bell & Ross (even without the square case). The dial draws parallels to their Instruments collection, with large white numerals on a black background and distinctive sword hands, which are slightly slimmer on the Vintage Chronograph. The counterweight of the central seconds hand is stylised as a silhouette of a plane, a new feature that Bell & Ross says will be found on many future releases. Underneath the dial beats the BR-Cal.301 automatic chronograph…
We’ve already given you a pretty thorough look at Rado’s pint-sized and patriotic Captain Cook, but while still photography is great at showing the finer details – that sunbrush finish and crisp dial printing, for example – video gives you a much more holistic picture. If you want to know how that dial looks under the glass box sapphire (hint – it looks awesome), or whether that ceramic is too shiny, then video is the way to go. And if you’ve been tossing up the pros and cons of regular vs limited, this could help you seal the deal – I know I had to try the bracelet on for it to win me over. Finally, in case you’re wondering, I’ve got a fairly large wrist, around 20–21cm – or a touch over 8 inches if imperial is your jam.
The relationship between Omega and space is special. Central to this relationship, of course, is the Speedmaster Professional, a phenomenally popular watch thanks in no small part to the cool-by-association links with NASA and the American space program. Naturally it’s something that Omega hasn’t been shy about capitalising on (even though former President Stephen Urquhart had his reservations), with countless space-themed ad campaigns and limited editions throughout the years. Limited edition Speedmasters are a funny thing: you can guarantee that every year or so Omega will celebrate a mission anniversary, or something similar, and this regularity sometimes makes it hard to get excited about the original premise – this watch helped man land on the moon. The Speedmaster Apollo XVII, a 42mm model available in gold or steel and celebrating the 45th anniversary of that mission (Omega’s third LE celebrating the Apollo XVII) is a little different. Partially, this is because Apollo XVII was the last mission where a man walked on the moon, but more significantly it’s because that man, Captain Eugene ‘Gene’ Cernan, passed away on the 16th of January this year, aged 82. This legacy adds an incredible nostalgia to the watch. This Speedy, with its mission patch inspired…
Rado’s HyperChrome Captain Cook has made waves this year, mostly due to the nearly pitch perfect 37mm reissue. And while there’s a lot to like about that watch, I suspect that the comparatively petite case size will be a deal-breaker for some people. But that’s OK because Rado has covered their bases by releasing a contemporarily sized 45mm version. It’s not just the case size that’s impressive, but also the construction – with ceramic bezel, hardened titanium case construction and a solid 80 hours of power reserve. Rado Hyperchrome Captain Cook 45mm Australian pricing Rado Hyperchrome Captain Cook 45mm, $3175
If you dive, or even if you don’t, then you may know that a diver’s regulator is the hub of their equipment – it is what makes breathing underwater possible, after all. We may not be referring to that type of regulator here, but the latest offering from Oris, the updated Regulateur ‘Der Meistertaucher’ (Master Diver), has been purpose-built for divers with a dial design seldom seen on a dive watch. In fact, Oris is the only manufacturer that currently offers a regulator dial on a dive watch – pioneered back in 1999 and featured in a handful of their collections, including the Aquis line, to which the ‘Der Meistertaucher’ belongs. So, what is a regulator dial? First introduced in observatories of the 18th century, these dials were found on highly accurate clocks that clockmakers would use as a reference when setting or regulating the pieces they were working on. They’re distinctive thanks to their non-coaxial layout, meaning the hour and minute hands are separated, with the minute hand traditionally remaining in the centre while the hour hand is shown on a separate sub-dial – it’s located at three on the ‘Der Meistertaucher’. What this means is that the watch shows the…
Given that 2017 marks the 50th anniversary of the Sea-Dweller, Rolex’s iconic deep diver, we were pretty confident that we were going to see an updated version at Baselworld. And the Big Crown did not disappoint, offering a brand new Sea-Dweller, the reference 126600, which quickly became one of the most talked-about watches of the fair. Now, any new, top-line release from Rolex will get people fired up, but the increased size, the single line of red text and – most significantly – the addition of a Cyclops really stirred debate. As is always the case with watches, it’s best to see them on the wrist, which is where our video review comes in… Rolex Sea-Dweller (ref. 126600) Australian pricing The Rolex Sea-Dweller, $14,400
Aside from Big Bangs, Hublot is perhaps best known for their prolific, and occasionally surprising, partnerships. One of the most interesting, from a design and technique perspective, is Hublot’s relationship with Italia Independent and their famous frontman – Lapo Elkann. If you pay even the slightest bit of attention to the world of men’s style, you’re probably all too aware of Elkann. If you’re not down on the difference between spritz and sprezzatura, Elkann – grandson of billionaire industrialist and sartorial icon Gianni Agnelli – is a staple of the style and society pages. He’s also the founder and driving force behind Italia Independent, which is best known for producing high-fashion eyewear, but is also a fully-fledged design agency in its own right. It should come as no surprise that Hublot’s Italia Independent collaboration focuses on unusual materials. While we’ve previously seen Texalium-infused timepieces, this time around they’ve opted to play with more traditional textures – the classic cloth of fine tailoring. The full collection consists of six different Classic Fusion watches, each incorporating a different woollen cloth – tartan, Prince-of-Wales check or houndstooth – on the dial and strap. It’s a bold look, but one entirely in keeping with both Hublot’s ‘art of fusion’…