HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition
In the wonderful world of Grand Seiko, if it’s not using a quartz crystal – and, yes, that includes the Spring Drive – then inside is a Caliber 9S movement. Introduced in 1998, the Caliber 9S is the staple of all mechanical Grand Seikos and forms the base for everything from humble three-handers to hi-beats and GMTs. This year, Grand Seiko are celebrating the 20th birthday of the 9S with – in addition to quite a few other LEs – the release of the Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition. Vital statistics Inside is a very “special” version of the Caliber 9S86 movement. Adjusted to six positions and allowing for changes in temperature, the movement exceeds the already stringent accuracy tolerances set by Grand Seiko, and is accurate to within +4 to -2 seconds per day, while it still features the added functionality of a GMT hand, and runs at 10 beats per second for up to 55 hours. This particular version of the 9S86 is now kept running by an oscillating weight made from titanium and tungsten. Visible through a sapphire crystal case back, the titanium sections of the weight are treated with an anodic oxidation…
The post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition appeared first on Time and Tide Watches.
Though technically introduced ahead of Baselworld 2018, the fair provided the first opportunity to take a first-hand look at the latest Omega watch collection for the 2018 Olympics, and to be perfectly frank, I was more than impressed. More oft than not, Omega’s releases tied to the Olympic Games can be quite hit-and-miss. Case in point, the Mark II Speedmaster launched for Rio in 2016 was a home run, whereas the white dial Seamaster for the Vancouver 2010 Games (with a cherry-red bezel) was a bit lacklustre. This year, a collection of five dressy vintage-inspired Seamaster watches (one in each of the ring colours) have been unveiled, taking design cues from an Omega stopwatch created for the 1976 Montreal Games, which in press imagery looked like a real winner. Here’s what you need to know. Vital statistics Right out of the gates, there’s a lot to love about these new Seamaster models. Powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer certified Calibre 8800, you’re getting top-spec Omega. A 55-hour power reserve, silicon balance spring, and magnetic resistance up to 15,000 Gauss. Shy of the small Olympic rings at six o’clock (below the date), these pieces certainly don’t scream “Olympic edition” but rather…
When Raymond Weil designed the Calibre RW1212, their first ever in-house design (produced by Sellita), I suspect part of the mandate was to show it off, hence the open escapement prominently on display — literally showing off a movement they’re rightfully proud of. Well, Raymond Weil doubled down at Basel 2018, exposing not just the escapement but the whole dial, thanks to a new series of skeletonised Freelancers. As you’d expect, there’s a range of new offerings on the table, but the one that impressed us was this modern sporty number, with what remains of the dial done in crisp white, with contrasting blue hands and hour markers, with their appealing, slightly bulbous shape. It’s also worth noting that both hands and hours are lumed — a nice, useful addition. But really, the dial is dominated by the, well, lack of dial. The open-worked dial really gives you a look behind the scenes, showing off not only the escapement but the power barrel at 12 (which could, in a pinch, be used as a very, very rough power reserve indicator), and the power train on the nine o’clock side. The crown gearing is partially obscured by the Raymond Weil branding, the…
The dust of Baselworld 2018 has finally settled, and while there was a ton of quick news to hammer through, there are certain topics that require a little more digestion. Case in point: the world of small independent watchmaking had a lot on offer this year, both outlandish and understated. Having seen and handled innumerable watches during the duration of the fair, sifting through the archives to come to a decision on who led the pack required both patience and a healthy dose of decompression. Of course, there were some obvious frontrunners from the likes of H. Moser, Angelus, and something truly bonkers from Urwerk; however, there were a healthy number of releases both conservative and outlandish from all over this category. Sarpaneva Moonment Many of us in the industry have had a soft spot for Stepan Sarpaneva’s wild creations, but in 2018 he has upped the game by launching his first ever in-house caliber. The hand-wound caliber is partially exposed beneath Sarpaneva’s trademark cage-style dial, and features a unique interpretation of the brand’s iconic moonphase complication. Using vertically stacked optic fibre, and a solid rotating moonphase disc, the moonphase has a fascinating eclipse-like appearance that changes dramatically depending on…
The story in a second: Two stripes are all it takes to amp up the legacy and motorsports heritage of the Monaco. I’m willing to put the success of the Monaco down to two things. The Steve McQueen link, and the square shape. I’m sure there are numerous other factors, like the Calibre 11, at play. But really, it’s the fact that this watch is so distinctive, and was worn by someone so cool that the Monaco has stayed strong throughout the decades. The latest brightly striped Gulf Special Edition takes both these factors to the next level. The dial Typically with in-depth reviews I start with the case, as it provides the foundational framework of the watch. But today I’m going with the dial, because this watch is all about the dial, and not just because of those stripes. The square Monaco dial is already pretty distinctive, due to its shape and those matching, rounded-off registers. This version takes as a base the blue starburst finish of the Cal. 12, and the dial layout (horizontal indices FTW) of the heritage, Heuer-only model. Of course you might not notice that the first few times you look at it, as overlaid…
Last year, Longines doubled down with the release of the Record collection. Illustrating just how serious they are about creating classically handsome and highly accurate watches, with price tags that won’t break the bank. The result was their first ever COSC-certified collection that combined a variety of dial options and colours, with four different sizes of stainless-steel cases. I’ll admit that while the collection remained steady in the Longines wheelhouse, there was just that little something missing to completely draw me in. That was until this year when, at Baselworld 2018, Longines launched a decidedly luxe version with a blue dial and 18k rose gold case. Vital statistics The greatest thing about the Record collection is that each and every version is powered by a chronometer certified automatic movement, with this version using the Caliber L888.4 (ETA A31.L11). Exclusively manufactured for Longines by ETA, the COSC-certified movement uses a silicon balance spring and maintains a power reserve of 64 hours. The case is sized at 38.5mm and made of 18k rose gold with a transparent case back and a water resistance rating of 30 metres. While the sunray blue dial is kept clean and simple, with golden bar indexes marking…
While Bell & Ross are well known for their aviation-inspired designs, there’s another side to the French watch brand that takes them from the flight deck to the boat deck. A side that saw them introduce their first ever dive watch in 1997. The oil-filled, and more round than square, Hydromax — with an unbelievable water resistance of 11,100 metres. It’s also a side that last year welcomed their first ever square-cased dive watch, the BR 03-92 Diver. Beginning a collection, that for Baselworld 2018, grew by two. One of which is the brand new BR 03-92 Diver Bronze, which, as the name suggests, is all diver and all bronze. Vital statistics Updating the colour and material of last year’s BR 03-92, this new version features a black dial with gold-plated indices and hands, as well as a 42mm x 42mm square case that’s constructed from a chunk of satin-polished CuSn8 bronze. To match the case is an all bronze – without aluminium insert – unidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute scale, and proud crown guards that flank a black rubber-coated crown. Water resistance is kept at 300m, while inside is the same BR-CAL.302 movement – based on the automatic Sellita SW300…
There’s more to a watch than how it feels and looks on the wrist. Some watches carry a weight greater than what you can measure in grams — they also bear the weight of decades of heritage and sociocultural significance. The Monaco — a true icon of the industry — is one such watch. It’s even more true when that Monaco has a Gulf dial. Those stripes, on that dial, add up to a double hit of Steve McQueen iconography. The watch he wore in Le Mans, emblazoned with the colours of the car he drove, all in one convenient 39mm package. And while this piece of history gives you a good idea as to who this watch is pitched at, it doesn’t quite capture just how much fun it is on the wrist. The Monaco is fun in and of itself, but the popping strap and striped dial take it to the next level, as you can see. TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition Australian pricing and availability TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition, steel on calf, $7650
As the dust settles, we look back at the Baselworld 2018 fair with a more holistic lens. And, as the Time+Tide team saw more than 50 brands between them, we think we’re in a pretty excellent position to pull out a few common themes… Trend 1 – Two-tone First up, two-tone watches. Let me start this by saying — yes, I know two-tone watches have always been a ‘thing’, but lately we feel they’ve picked up momentum (something I put down to the fact that a lot of steel watches are hard to come by!). Tudor Black Bay S&G with champagne dial Tudor spiced up their existing Black Bay S&G model with a ‘champagne’ dial. In person, it’s much closer to gold, especially under natural light. This move from Tudor, a year after the original release of the S&G, shows that they’re backing the two-tone love. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M As part of Omega’s new 300M Diver collection, we saw several bi-metal releases. Omega backed the love for two-tone this year, releasing not one but three variations of the Diver — a Tantalum (Titanium) and Sedna (Gold), Steel and Sedna Gold, and Steel and Yellow Gold. Rolex GMT-Master II in Everose and…
Baselworld is over for another year and while we take a deep breath to compose ourselves and remind our respective families we still exist, it’s time to mentally unpack our time in Basel and compose the chaos into a list. Not just any list, but a Baselworld Top 10 List. Here we go. Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski All Black This updated Aerofusion ‘Orlinski’ — named for the French sculptor Richard Orlinski, who collaborated on the design — is all about the angles; the muted tones of the micro-blasted black ceramic catches all the light. With a self-winding skeleton chronograph movement and limited to 200 pieces, this model will quickly become a collectable. Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Root Beer” The early hype at the fair was the release of the first stainless steel GMT-Master II since the ‘Batman’ in 2014. While everyone was in a frenzy to get a glimpse of the ‘Pepsi’ on jubilee bracelet, Rolex had another GMT flying a little lower under the radar. The soft tones of the Everose gold is soft enough in colour to play off the stainless steel, and with the ceramic ‘root beer’ bezel, this one is a winner. Longines Legend Diver Black Just when…