HANDS-ON: The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5740 – the Nautilus we had to have
One of the big surprises of Baselworld 2018 was Patek Philippe’s decision to add a grand complication model – specifically a perpetual calendar – to the Nautilus line. Or was it? Nautilus-with-complication is an old story (travel time, chronograph, annual calendar have all featured over the years) and the pre-Basel rumour mill was promoting the ‘perpetual’ idea pretty heavily. So when Patek unveiled the ref. 5740 there was a definite sense of “Surprise – what surprise?” Vital statistics The movement is one of Patek’s all-time greats: the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240 Q – also found in the current collection in the Calatrava-cased ref. 5327. It’s essentially the same movement that was introduced in the landmark ref. 3940 in the mid-1980s and continually improved upon over the years. Those improvements include a Gyromax balance wheel and Spiromax (silicium) hairspring. The perpetual calendar display indicates the day, date, month and leap year by hands, as well as a moon phase and 24-hour display. The white gold case measures 40mm (diagonally, from 10–4 o’clock), has a screw-down crown, helping to ensure water-resistance to 60 metres, and comes on a white gold bracelet with a folding clasp. On the wrist Although, for a Nautilus, there’s…
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Now a third year into the Sixties series of watches — one that started with a limited production of five colourways of the watch seen here in 2016, and a similar set of colours in a square chronograph for 2017 — Glashütte Original have opted to cut choice out of the equation for Baselworld 2018. A beautifully textured green dial, stamped using vintage dies from the brand’s archives, will be available from boutiques and retailers for a one-year period (rather than being limited to a specific volume of watches). We’ve been seeing green making the rounds of luxury watch brands for a good couple of years now, but with the combination of colour choice, unique texture, and the generally funky ’60s-era vibe to this piece, I can’t help but lock it in as my favourite green dial to date. Now I know a lot of you will want to have my head for not picking the new green-dialled H. Moser Pioneer, but rest assured, it’s a mighty tight race between the two. Vital statistics Depending on the variant, as the new Sixties model is available as either a no-date or Panorama Date configuration, buyers have the option of either a svelte…
Last year, Breguet gave us a first taste of their new design for the Marine collection. However, the new look didn’t get the massive attention you might expect for an update of a pillar collection. Not because it wasn’t noteworthy but because the new look was revealed in the form of the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 – and when you get a complication as mouth-watering as that, the aesthetics tend to play second fiddle. In contrast, the new Marine 5517, released at Baselworld 2018, places the emphasis firmly on the design. Vital Statistics Set in a 40mm case, the movement is Breguet’s self-winding in-house calibre 777A with a power reserve of 55 hours, a silicon balance spring and skeletonised winding rotor. As well as this white gold-blue dial version, the Breguet Marine 5517 comes in red gold with a silvery white dial, and in titanium – the latter with a sun-brushed dial, rather than the guilloché wave pattern of the gold models. The dial of each watch is individually numbered, below the Breguet logo. The hour chapter is marked out by applied Roman numerals, with luminescent dots for the minutes and a date window at 3 o’clock. There’s also lume…
Chopard have had a really solid last couple of years when it comes to their new releases, and all told they did not disappoint at Baselworld 2018. Some funky new colours were added to the Mille Miglia line, but one of the real stars of the show was this new take on the L.U.C Quattro. Past iterations of the piece, while technically brilliant, have always come off as quite conservative. For 2018, the Quattro takes on much more casual airs, and though limited to only 50 pieces worldwide, we can’t help but hope that a similar variant will make it to series production further on down the road. Here’s what you need to know about this rose gold gem while they’re still on the market. Vital statistics At its core, this is pure Chopard L.U.C fine watchmaking at its best. The hand-winding caliber of the Quattro is an impressive one, delivering a 9-day power reserve from four stacked mainspring barrels (two stacked pairs), all crammed into a very modestly sized caliber. Believe it or not, the caliber itself is only 3.7mm thick — thinner than the conventional 3-hand caliber 2824 from ETA, for that matter. This isn’t a new caliber…
It was only a matter of time before Hublot wound up in the smartwatch game, and somewhere in the onslaught of new product, Baselworld 2018 was the time and place for it to become a reality. The Big Bang Referee 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia, or BBR2FWCR for short, follows on the heels of other LVMH Group Smart Watches (TAG Heuer and Louis Vuitton are already in the game), though Hublot tell a pretty interesting story about this piece’s creation when compared to its siblings. So, the story goes (or how the brand chooses to weave it) that during a meeting with the FIFA organisation, Hublot were asked if they could create some sort of smartwatch specifically for the referees. We’ll take that with a grain of salt, but if you’re going to make a FIFA smartwatch, the referee idea makes sense. The reality is the watch exists, and it’s time to see what it’s all about. Vital statistics It’s no surprise that the Intel Atom processor of the Big Bang Referee is the exact same as what is found in the current TAG Heuer Connected watch. Its 35.3mm dial provides ample space to read out functions and manipulate its…
While I know Bulgari released a full suite of new models at Baselworld 2018 — including a nice new Lucea and variants on the Octo Roma — really, it was all about their geometric critical hit, the Octo. And while we didn’t exactly see the Octo come in new shapes and sizes (it’s still very square), we did see it come in a genuinely interesting new mix of case finishes and complications. Take, for example, the new carbon minute repeater, giving the chiming champion a completely new feel. And then there’s their latest record-breaker, the Octo Tourbillon Automatic, a technical tour de force that looks good to boot. But, for me, the real star is the two new case variations on the Octo Finissimo Automatic, in rhodium-coated steel and pink gold. I’m especially taken by the pink gold, which has never looked so low-key. In the comments on one of our videos, someone asked the question (and I’m paraphrasing here): “How is it that a jewellery house is making such excellent watches?” My answer is that they’re making cohesive, distinctive, zeitgeist-y and genuinely good timepieces precisely because they’re a jewellery house. They’re not so bound by the covenants and conventions of the…
There’s something I feel you should know about our personal ‘top 10’ videos: Andrew and I don’t share what’s on our lists with each other. Sure, we drop broad hints, but this video is genuinely the first time Andrew’s hearing my list in full. The surprise, and the guesses, are real. And even though it’s a little surprising that Andrew didn’t guess my choices — I mean, I went to absolutely zero effort to hide my unashamed love for that Rolex Daytona, for example — the real surprise was that we had only one duplicate watch in the whole 10. You know what else is real about this video? The extreme fatigue that comes on the last day of Baselworld. We filmed this just prior to our final day of appointments, and I was coming off a week of roughly four hours a night sleep, so things started getting a little silly. And aside from the general watch-induced mania (particular apologies to Nomos), there’s a few symptoms of this fatigue, namely Marcus and my shared obsession with 1982’s finest film, and one of the greatest soundtracks of all time. Not sure what I’m on about (not that I blame you)? Well, here’s a hint:…
We’ve come to associate Fifty Fathoms with minimalistic dials, so this Day Date model – one of three new pieces released at Baselworld 2018 to mark the 65th anniversary of the original diving watch – is a real shift in style. This doesn’t mean that Blancpain are suddenly getting all decorative, though; rather, they have looked to their 1970s archive for the design cues. Vital Statistics While the aesthetic is retro, everything else is bang-up to the minute, with all of the technical advances that Blancpain have brought to their dive watches in recent years. The movement is based on the acclaimed calibre 1315: the balance is non-magnetic silicium and the three barrels deliver a mighty five-day power reserve. The Day Date 70s comes in the same 43mm brushed steel case and its unidirectional bezel has a ceramic insert and markers filled with Liquidmetal – a scratch-proof alloy developed by Swatch Group and used by several of its brands, notably Omega. There’s a choice of four different wristbands: vintage-style antiqued leather, sail-canvas or NATO straps, or a steel bracelet. On the wrist Three years after launching the original Fifty Fathoms, Blancpain introduced the Bathyscaphe explicitly for civilian, rather than professional…
Affectionately named for its tuna-can-for-the-wrist design, the Seiko Tuna collection holds many “firsts” in the dive watch world. From being the first to feature a dual layer construction with a one-piece inner case, to introducing the accordion-style rubber strap. In 1978, it also welcomed Seiko’s – and the world’s – first foray into professional quartz dive watches, with the addition of the 600m “Golden Tuna”. Which you might have already noticed (if you’re any good at maths) is celebrating its 40th birthday at Basel 2018. Vital statistics Seiko have marked this special occasion with the release of a limited-edition re-creation that hits all the familiar notes starting with a 7C46 quartz movement ticking away at its heart. On the outside is a 49.4mm zirconia ceramic shroud that protects the golden-coated titanium inner case. And a screw-down crown that helps secure the 1000m water resistance rating of the 15.4mm thick case. There’s also a separate commemorative limited-edition version that swaps the black ceramic shroud for a golden Cermet protector, and the golden-coloured inner case for a hard-coated black one. Both are of course available with Seiko’s classic accordion-style silicone strap. On the wrist The Seiko Tuna is no shrinking violet; however,…
In the opening scene of this video, which was shot on the final day of Baselworld 2018, I say to Felix, “We’re doing a list?!” with a type of delirious, high-pitched Seinfeldian disbelief. What I meant was, seriously, how could we be? We just arrived at Basel! How is it that we are distilling our fancied from the flock, already? What’s interesting is that the first impression favourites are usually quite accurate. When I look back at 2017 and 2016, the lists are still pretty spot on for my tastes. I even now own a few of them. However, what’s different this year is that I knew I’d picked one wrong watch almost as soon as we were out of my list and into Felix’s. I’ll get straight to it. The Tudor. I should have gone with my instincts and chosen the Fifty-Eight. The decision to go with the GMT though was not a frivolous one. It was a mental tussle that raged over the five days before we finally committed to our 10. It went something like this, with the angel being the Fifty-Eight, and devil being the GMT. Like always, the devil won, but it shouldn’t have. …