INTRODUCING: The Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8
Omega releasing a new Speedmaster model at Baselworld 2018 is hardly the biggest surprise ever, but still, the high contrast black and yellow colour scheme and novel dial design make the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 an interesting, attention-seeking addition to the family. Vital statistics Fifty years ago, Apollo 8 was the first mission to orbit the moon, and actually see the dark side of the moon. So the black, zirconium oxide ceramic Dark Side of the Moon is an obvious choice. And while Omega say the choice of yellow is inspired by the original Speedmaster Racing and associations with speed, really what it comes down to is the fact that it looks cool. But what’s really interesting about this watch is the dial. It’s skeletonised, which is unusual for a Speedy, and the plates and bridges have been given a dark lunar makeover, courtesy of a laser ablation technique. In a cool twist the caseback side of the watch is rendered to resemble the dark side of the moon. Initial thoughts The space theme on the DSOTM Apollo 8 is nuanced and well done — I particularly like that the Jim Lovell quote, “We’ll see you…
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One of the most popular and most loved Omega watches is the mighty Seamaster 300 — made especially famous by James Bond. Baselworld 2018 marks the 25th anniversary of the design, and to mark the occasion, Omega have completely upgraded and revamped the line, offering a total of 14 new Seamaster Diver 300 models, in both steel and two-tone cases. Vital statistics Every detail of the new Seamaster Diver 300 has been assessed and rethought, from a new, more ergonomic bracelet, to a conical helium escape valve. But it’s the big changes that will capture the eye. The size has been boosted to 42mm, and that famous scalloped bezel is now in ceramic with Ceragold or white enamel diving scale. The dials are also polished ceramic, in blue, black and chrome (thanks to a PVD treatment), and the ever-popular wave design is now laser engraved. You’ll note that the date is a touch more subtle at the six o’clock position, and the hands design, while still recognisable, has been tweaked. Things are different on the inside too, as each of these new watches is powered by the Master Chronometer certified 8800, with all that entails for accuracy and performance. Initial…
The Seamaster is one of the enduring staples of the fine watch world, found on the wrists of young and old, all over the world. It turns out that this year the old favourite turns 70, and so we’ve obviously got new Omega Seamaster watches being released at Baselworld 2018 — like these Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Editions, offered in small and central seconds variations. Vital statistics It’s not often you think about watches in the context of international events, but in the case of the Seamaster it’s pertinent. First released in 1948, while the world was still reeling from World War II, the original Seamaster built on the lessons Omega learned in the war — it’s a rugged, robust and overall accurate watch, the sort of watch they provided the British Ministry of Defence in their thousands, but with a more civilian flavour. Today, Omega have honoured that original design with two similar, but subtly different, variants. The Small Seconds model, features leaf-style hands in 18k white gold, adding an extra touch of elegance to the domed silver opaline dial with its applied markers. The Central Seconds is slightly more youthful, with sportier dauphine hands and SuperLuminova. Both are…
It was only a matter of time. And if you were a betting man, you’d have safely bet that it would be right on a year that Longines would double down on the Record Collection and offer it in gold. The benefits are immediate, giving the otherwise conservative new range a whole snap, crackle and colour pop, care of rose gold and navy blue alchemy, as well as two-tone variants. Vital statistics The watches in the Record Collection, certified as “chronometers” by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), thanks to engineering upgrades such as a silicon balance, combine classic elegance with excellence. Longines talk about the Record being a bridge between the brand’s tradition and innovation; however, it’s more accurate to say that the movement is now just on a par with more expensive brands and its accuracy and quality is guaranteed within -4/+6 a day. It’s not particularly innovative, but it is particularly good value at this price point, which is a brand quality we find ourselves repeating ad nauseam. The Record Collection features two sized calibers housed inside four sizes of models (26, 30, 38.5 and 40mm) and comes in a variety of dials. Like the debut range,…
The Conquest is considered by Longines to be “the ultimate sports line”, and with the V.H.P. chronograph, the brand is combining sportiness with next-level precision, care of the impressive technical quartz heart that makes the watch accurate to +/- 5 seconds a year. It’s not the first time the winged hourglass brand has set its sights on ultra precision and performance. Vital statistics Longines’ history with quartz has been one full of technical innovations and feats. In 1954, the first quartz watch set a precision record at the Neuchâtel Observatory. It would be fitted into the legendary Chronocinégines, an instrument that became a pioneer in the history of timekeeping. Another huge step forward was made in 1984 with the quartz calibre fitted in the first Conquest V.H.P, setting yet more precision records. These historic milestones form a foundation for the new Conquest V.H.P, with a chronograph calibre in various chromatic variations. The movement developed exclusively for Longines stands out for its high degree of precision for an analog watch and its ability to reset its hands after an impact or exposure to a magnetic field, using the Gear Position Detection (GPD) system. These attractive features are likely responsible for its…
Longines are expanding their HydroConquest collection for 2018 with new models featuring a bezel with a coloured ceramic insert matched to the colour of the dial. Vital statistics Longines are expanding their HydroConquest collection for 2018 with new models featuring a bezel with a coloured ceramic insert matched to the colour of the dial. The existing characteristics of this collection remain, including water-resistance to 300 metres, a unidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crown and case back, crown protection, hands and the hour markers applied with SuperLuminova, and a double security folding clasp with integrated diving extension. There are new grey, black and blue sunray dials and a new rubber strap in colours that match the dial, which is said to be more ergonomic and more comfortable. The metal bracelet version combines polished and brushed steel. The new HydroConquest is available in 41mm and 43mm sizes for models with three hands and a calendar, and 41mm for the chronograph model. Initial thoughts You don’t need to mention the Big Crown here to reiterate what a ceramic bezel — with all its show-stealing shine, modernity and scratch resistance — can make to a legit dive watch’s appeal. It’s unlikely to have that kind of riotous…
The all-mechanical Longines Master Collection, the best-selling in the brand’s portfolio, expands to offer Longines’ first ever annual calendar. For those who are wondering, an annual calendar watch automatically manages the varying lengths of the months. This allows the timepieces to distinguish between a month with 30 days and a month with 31 days for example, with little intervention. The Longines Master Collection is the first range from Longines to house this feature. Vital Statistics As recently as 2005, Longines launched the Master Collection, and it proved to be a line that would pave the way forward while remaining faithful to Longines’ 185-year history. It is traditional without bordering on twee, classic with enough nuance to avoid being boring, and it moves just enough with the times to play to modern tastes. Best of all, it does all this while including those on modest budgets. Now with an annual calendar to play alongside highly complicated models, it will also strongly appeal to those who actually use their watch to remind themselves of the day and date as well. The Master Collection Annual Calendar houses the new automatic L897 caliber in a 40mm stainless-steel case. It has 64 hours of power reserve…
As they did with their Calibre 111, Oris have chosen Baselworld to debut their latest in-house produced movement, with the Calibre 114, in their ever popular ProPilot collection, being launched at Basel 2018. It’s the fifth Oris-made movement to be introduced into their catalogue since 2014. This one comes with all the fun of the Calibre 111 and adds a GMT hand to the centre of the dial. Because, really, what better complication is there for a pilot’s watch? Vital statistics Not much has changed style-wise with the case of this latest ProPilot. It still measures 44mm across, is water resistant to 100m, and features that defining milled coin edge bezel and an oversized crown. The biggest difference is within. Inside is their brand new manual wind calibre with date, small seconds, a 10-day power reserve, and added centre GMT function that will also support half-hour time zones. Looking to the dial and there are two colours to choose from: an anthracite with sunray polish, and a matt black. Both with applied Arabic numerals printed with lume, a date window and small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, and the familiar power reserve display at 3 o’clock. At the tip of…
Without a doubt, the standout hit for Oris in recent years has been the Divers Sixty-Five, and for good reason, mind you. First released in 2015, it remained faithful to its inspiration – a model from (you guessed it) 1965 – and nailed the vintage vibe. Instantly becoming a crowd-favourite, and quickly followed up by different dial variations with applied dot and baton indices and a 42mm case, as well as bronzed beauties like the Carl Brashear limited editions. Now home to more than two dozen models, Baselworld 2018 sees the collection grow by two, with the release of the Divers Sixty-Five Bi-Colour in both 40 and 36mm. Vital statistics A different take on the classic two-tone approach, the outer ring of the black aluminium inlayed bezel is now bronze, adding a flash of colour that will patina over time. And the stainless-steel case, while still rated to 100m, has returned to 40mm and is joined by a very lady (or small wrist) friendly 36mm version. Both sporting black dials under their domed crystals, with rose gold-plated applied indices and hands, filled with a creamy lume. There’s also a greater sense of symmetry, with the date moved back to 6 o’clock…
The pointer date is one of Oris’ most recognisable complications. Making its debut in 1938, it wasn’t until it was reintroduced in 1984 that it became a regular part of the catalogue. Paired with another of Oris’ signature designs, the heritage-inspired Big Crown pilot’s watch, Baselworld 2018 sees a couple of fresh-faced dials, as well as a 36mm version cased in two very different metals, added to the family. Vital statistics What we have are two versions of the same design, one with a 40mm case, and the other with a 36mm case. Both are water resistant to 50m and have a screw-down crown. And both use the historic pointer date complication – with a red crescent moon-tipped central hand – to indicate the date on the outside of the dial. The main differences, other than their size, lie in the choice of colourways and case material. The 36mm version introduces an idyllic light green dial and pairs it with either a stainless steel or patina-friendly bronze case. While the 40mm sticks to a stainless steel-only construction and introduces a brand-new light blue dial to the equation. Of course, both still feature the familiar big crown and coin-edged bezel, which, along with…