VIDEO: Andrew’s top 3 Basel 2019 watches between $10,000 and $35,000 inc. Zenith, Bulgari and Rolex
I feel that I need to briefly explain when these videos happen, and what’s going on with us at these points in time. They are filmed on our last day at Basel. They are filmed without an autocue (I know, unbelievable!). They are filmed with zero access to any illegal substances. And they ALL contain traces of intense fatigue thanks to the jet lag, the severity of which only Australians in Europe who started working straight off a plane can understand. That said, we’ve come to consider this a magic cocktail. Because, when Marcus says go, we are more ourselves than ever. And in this case, my watch choices are raw and real. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT There are two brilliant things about the Octo Finissimo Chronograph that should be lauded. One, not only did Bulgari achieve the thinnest chronograph in the world with this watch, they did so with an extra complication and, in my opinion, the most useful – a second time zone. And two, they did so while maintaining the almost impossibly svelte on-wrist feel of the time-only original. Zenith Defy Inventor Aside from all the stuff I say about Zenith impressing everyone by actually getting…
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Given the vastly reduced number of brands in Hall 1 at Baselworld 2019 there were vastly fewer choices this year across all price points, but particularly in this one. The Swatch Group excel in sub $10K watches, and their absence was felt when it came time for Felix and I to retreat to our corners and start scratching out our personal favourites. However, after skulking off at somewhere in the process to explore Hall 1.1 and other places, I discovered three cracking options for not just under 10K, but under 5. I thought it was worth giving them their own video. They’re pretty great. Stay tuned for that list coming soon — for now, it’s the three that caught my eye and, boy, did my eye do some unpredictable wandering this year. Bronze, Breitling and big, bad black ceramic. It was an embarrassment of riches. Let’s go. TAG Heuer Autavia in bronze Unexpected doesn’t quite do this drop justice. It was almost unthinkable a year ago that TAG Heuer would wade into such of-the-moment territories as bronze, graduated dials and overall heritage hues. It’s not as if the brand never went there — the Monza and the Autavia were both massive successes — but they…
Usually in this sort of video I try to honour the rules. Because you never know, maybe you actually are in the market for a brand new watch somewhere between 10 and 35K. Odd, but not impossible. And if that’s the case, I don’t want to harsh your vibe by sneaking something in that’s out of the parameters. But you know what? That’s what I did here. The Patek is, asides from being pure unobtanium to mere mortals, well about 35K AUD. But it’s so pretty, I just had to bend the rules. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic As soon as I saw this watch, I knew I was in love. As soon as I strapped it on (ceramic clasp and all), I was working out what organs I had in my body that weren’t strictly necessary. Possibly my favourite Octo Finissimo thus far. Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G I’ve already covered off the bit where I fiddled with the price, but, honestly, do you blame me? One wit in the PP press conference described this as a CEO weekend-wearer. My response: “No, it’s his other weekend-wearer, ’cause they’ve already got it in black.” True fact. Hublot Big Bang Unico Sang Bleu…
Hublot has been growing the Spirit of Big Bang line slowly and steadily, and though the SoBB Yellow Sapphire was quite the cool addition, this new tourbillon is (in my humble opinion) easily the best new offering in the collection. The Hublot calibre HUB6020 was designed specifically for the tonneau-shaped case of the Spirit, and its architecturally inspired structure suits the casing quite well. Once again being the brand that loves messing with variations of case materials, not only is it offered in a black carbon version, but also this slick version that that rolls hints of a blue composite material into the mix. Limited to only 100 pieces in each material and carrying a price tag over six figures, the tourbillon lives in the upper register of the brand’s collection, and if you have a closer look at some of their other skeletonised offerings you’ll note some similarity. Specifically, the Classic Fusion Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Orlinski shares much of its movement DNA. The design of most of its bridges, as well as the layout of its mainspring barrel, tourbillon, and power reserve indication are near identical; however, to make the design work effectively in the SoBB, Hublot’s…
At a Baselworld that failed to excite on many levels, Hublot revved up crowds with an entirely new model, a 90th birthday collaboration that is anything but for the elderly, a totally bonkers tattooist tie-in and a Spirit of Big Bang that is a true blue beauty. Hublot Classic Fusion Ferrari GT Let’s cut the suspense and kick off with that new model – the 45mm Classic Fusion Ferrari GT. Now this has wooed some new fans to the brand for its more subtle stylings. Co-designed by Flavio Manzoni, Senior Vice President of Design at Ferrari, it features a raised, rounded bezel that totally changes the personality of this Hublot. Where the Big Bang shouts power, the Classic Fusion Ferrari GT only needs to whisper it. Some key specs: the movement is the Hublot in-house calibre Unico, a self-winding flyback chronograph with three-day power reserve. The Classic Fusion Ferrari GT Limited Edition is available in three different cases: Titanium, King Gold and 3D Carbon. Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary If you’d prefer a Ferrari-related watch that is more recognisably Hublot, there’s always the Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary, which is a symphony of sexy details like the prancing horse…
Baselworld 2019 was a fairly subdued affair, but that didn’t stop me from ferreting out three (very very different) pieces that reminded me what my love of watches was all about. Tudor Black Bay P01 Yup, I know. All y’all were very much not into this piece. And you know what, on paper (or Instagram, as the case might be), I was with you. But on the wrist it’s a very different picture, and I’d suggest holding judgement until you see this Tudor IRL. And to be honest, it’s more interesting than another suite of ‘regular’ BB dial variations. Zenith Defy Classic 41 in white ceramic Sure, it *just* sneaks over the price point, but it’s so nice I just had to include it. Now, believe it or not, I’m not typically a full white ceramic kind of guy, but for this Zenith, with its matt case and intricate details, I’d make an exception. Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGK005G Grand Seiko marks the 20th anniversary of the special Spring Drive in style, with a brand new, manually wound version that features not only a banging dial, but also a slimmer, more streamlined case. 
I’m not sure if Lou Reed would have liked this watch (I hope he would have), but I know I certainly do. The modern sports line that is the Defy is an increasing priority for Zenith – a key, future-facing pillar for the brand that is both distinctive and incredibly versatile. This new version, all 41mm of blinding white ceramic, proves this point. Do me a favour, take a minute and check out another version of this self same design. Now, look at the watch below. It’s a marked difference. With the matt ceramic case, open-worked dial (replete with that signature star motif) and textured white rubber strap, there’s little argument that this is a watch intended to make a statement. Legibility, for example, is not the aim of the game. Having said that, in the few minutes I wore this piece (a few minutes more than I should have — I was a little smitten), I was quite taken at how wearable it was. Maybe not a daily suit-and-tie watch, but if you rock a more casual style, it’s certainly a viable regular rotation contender — especially if you were to swap the strap out for something a little more…
Over at Bulgari, the reign of the Octo Finissimo continues to flourish. At Baselworld 2019 the ultra-thin heavyweight collection gained two strong new members. And over on the women’s side, there’s a new golden serpent to adore. The hero of Bulgari’s set piece is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, a very smart addition (in both the style and engineering sense). It’s a completely new movement, and full of nice engineering details. It also boasts a lot of user-focused details, like that GMT. It’s a really useful combination of complications wrapped up in a wafer-thin package. The yin to the Chronograph’s yang is another, darker take on the Octo Finissimo — in fact, an entirely black take. This new ceramic version once again transforms the feel of the watch. Bonus points for opting for a sleek matt finish, and even a fully ceramic folding clasp. Finally, the Serpenti Seduttori, a woman’s watch that’s intended to be a more everyday alternative to the Serpenti Tubogas. The bracelet on this piece is lovely, and more than lives up to the Serpenti name. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Ceramic Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori
Let’s face it, the fair has been a bit of a mixed bag. There’s been a range of good, bad, and downright ugly watches lurking in these halls. I never expect to walk in the door and love everything, but as with most years I’ve certainly found a few odds and ends that grabbed my attention. The surprising element to this is where some of the watches are from — in the case of the three watches below we’re talking about Patek. For years I’ve certainly had an appreciation for the brand, their technical prowess, their devout following and their ability to fuel a level of demand that borders on the astonishing. That said, at a personal level their watches seldom speak to me to a point of a desire to own, with the odd exception. However, I found this trio of watches from the brand’s Basel 2019 releases caught my attention far more than in previous years. Patek Philippe Ref. 5520P Alarm Travel Time The latest evolution of Patek’s pilot-inspired spin on the Calatrava is poised to be another hot-button topic among many, especially those more enamoured with the brand’s more traditional offerings. I, on the other hand, warmed up…
You can get a pretty good sense of the overarching themes of Baselworld by listening to the chatter in the halls, press centre and even the sausage cart outside. And, along with smaller crowd sizes and uncertain futures, one of the main conversational themes was the size of brand collections. In press conferences, words like ‘focused’ and ‘consolidated’ abounded. In short, brands weren’t releasing many watches. One exception was Seiko. The Japanese powerhouse has so many lines (though to be fair these are becoming increasingly codified and coherent) and plenty to choose from, so much so that I had a real struggle winnowing it down to just six watches — even given the fact that I excluded the fancy Prospex LX watches. There were some diver reissues with some Hollywood provenance, a beautiful new artisanal take on the Presage, as well as a great green Cocktail Time (Midori maybe?), and a tribute to the 50th anniversary of the Astron. Seiko SNJ025P Seiko SLA033J Seiko SRPD21K Seiko SRPD37J Seiko SPB093 Seiko SSH021J