HANDS-ON: Undeniably impressive – the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang 45mm Sapphire
The Spirit Of Big Bang is one of my favourite lines from Hublot. Partially that’s down to my occasionally contrarian nature wanting to stand out from the regular Big Bang herd, but mostly it’s because I find the large and in charge tonneau case shape is a perfect complement to the brand’s Art of Fusion philosophy. I’ve worn the 45mm King Gold Spirit, and the smaller 43mm titanium moonphase version and enjoyed them both immensely. They’re imposing-yet-fun on the wrist, and this all sapphire version takes the concept to the next level. This is a Statement watch with a capital S (and perhaps capitalised a-t-e-m-e-n-t as well) and it takes a certain confidence to pull off. A level of confidence that to be honest, I’m not sure I possess. Then again, I suspect wearing this would function as a pretty effective confidence booster in its own right. It’s not just the seemingly impossible sapphire case that makes this such an impressive watch — it’s the case material combined with the shape and size. Tonneau cases are uncommon and hard to get right. Because of this most stick to the sapphire territory of round watches, and Hublot – with its now…
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I’m on record as being quite a fan of the Black Bay Steel. For me, it was one of the real highlights of Baselworld 2017. At first this might seem like a bit of an odd choice as the BB Chrono and S&G were the ‘buzzier’ pieces. For me, though, the Steel takes the Black Bay back to what it’s all about — the core of the collection. At its heart, this watch isn’t overly complicated or flashy. It’s a robust, everyday diver with a healthy dose of nostalgia thrown in. And that’s what the Steel delivers in spades. By removing colour from the equation it brings the purposeful design to the fore. I might go so far as to say it’s my favourite Black Bay of all time. Big call, but I’m happy to go there.
Oris has developed a bit of a reputation for consistently releasing surprising vintage-inspired pieces. Having said that, their Big Crown 1917 is a little more surprising than most. That’s partly because Oris had no idea the watch that inspired it existed — this little piece of Hölstein history has been sitting in their archives, quietly gathering patina. Happily, someone (who deserves a promotion, just quietly) at Oris noticed it and recognised the potential of their first pilot’s watch, just in time for its 100th anniversary. Not a foot has been put wrong with the Big Crown 1917; all the elements work in harmony and there’s precisely the right blend of idiosyncratic charm and everyday comfort. The 40mm steel case resembles a converted pocket watch, rounded and pebble-like, with a nicely domed sapphire crystal and onion crown. The dial is warmly retro, with a finely grained silver base with old-school railroad chapter ring, and stylised serif Arabics filled with creamy SuperLuminova that neatly matches the blued steel cathedral hands. Purists can also breathe a sigh of relief as there’s no date window to mar the purity of the style. Oris also gets major kudos for that little button at two —…
The story in a second The most eagerly awaited dive watch release from Seiko…ever? Seiko were relative latecomers to the professional dive watch game, coming some 10 years after the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and the Rolex Submariner. Released in 1965, the legendary Seiko 62MAS (ref. 6217) was Japan’s first professional dive watch and inspired a long tradition of Seiko divers that has seen the brand release some of the most widely used and respected divers on the market. In fact, some of Seiko’s own design innovations contributed to the foundation of the ISO 6425 dive watch standards. So, when the news leaked, that Seiko were finally answering the prayers and wishes of collectors by releasing a re-creation of the iconic 62MAS, the watch world was abuzz with excitement. Was it true? Were the pictures fake? Will they accept MasterCard? All was revealed at Baselworld 2017, when Seiko unveiled one of their most faithful vintage reissues ever, the Prospex SLA017. In fact, if you spotted someone wearing the modern re-creation, you would have a hard time distinguishing it from the original, without resorting to some expert level wrist stalking. The case The SLA017 is an almost exact duplicate of the original…
Earlier this year Bell & Ross released a pair of their trademark square watches that demonstrated quite a different take on their perennial aviation theme. The BR 03-92 Horolum, a slab of grey metal, was inspired by an airport’s tarmac. This version, the BR 03-92 Horograph, takes a similarly pedestrian inspiration — the ubiquitous and useful airport clock. As you can imagine, legibility is the aim of the game here, with stark white printed baton indices and broad stick hands set against a matt black dial. A red-tipped second hand, date at four and a discreet minute track complete the picture. The triangular marker at 12 is a nod to the classic layout of pilot’s watches. The 42mm steel case is bead-blasted, a nice utilitarian finish that well suits the functional feel of the watch. On the wrist, the Horograph wears much like Bell & Ross’ other instrument watches, which is unsurprising given the shared case. It feels quite different from the military-inspired watches B&R are best known for. Its focus is a little less macho and a little more design, which is a nice change up. The Horograph comes on a rubber strap, which is in keeping with the brand’s…
Forget the fuss about the Sea-Dweller and the palaver over the Sky-Dweller, the real Rolex of 2017 is the Datejust 41 in steel. On the surface, the reasons might not be immediately obvious. After all, the Datejust 41 isn’t new (it was released last year in yellow and Everose Rolesor versions), and its looks are almost the very definition of classic. But despite this – or because of it – we’re confident in predicting that the steel Datejust 41 will be one of their most popular models this year. Let’s step back for just a second. What is a Datejust 41, and where does it fit in the Rolex ecosystem? Well, the second part of the equation, the 41, is simple enough — it refers to the 41mm case size. But the Datejust itself requires a jot more explanation. Originally introduced way back in 1945, the Datejust is a prime example of one of the quiet revolutions that make Rolex the powerhouse it is today. The innovation of the Datejust was that the date ‘jumped’ at midnight, rather than slowly dragging across over a few hours. Simple, but significant. Add to this the iconic elements of the Oyster Case, Cyclops…
When I first saw the new gold Daytonas at Basel, I didn’t quite know what to make of them. After the phenomenal success of last year’s new steel and Cerachrom Daytona, further extension of the line seemed inevitable, and precious metals the logical step. But I did not expect – and was somewhat confused by – the choice to pair these yellow, white and Everose gold Daytonas with an Oysterflex bracelet. Add to this the fact that I was feeling some pretty intense feelings about the new Sea-Dweller and Sky-Dweller, and it’s fair to say that I didn’t give these new models the attention they deserved. Well, that changed last week when I got to spend time with some new pieces here at home, and while the shine hadn’t worn off the two ’Dwellers, I found myself coming back, again and again, to the yellow gold Daytona. It’s a decidedly modern take on the powerhouse chronograph, with its high-contrast black and gold colour scheme and blend of materials including ceramic, gold and rubber. While the upgrade to Cerachrom is significant, that’s something we’re all pretty familiar with now; instead it’s the Oysterflex that radically changes what this watch is, and…
TAG Heuer has pulled off a minor miracle with the Link. They’ve taken one of their most recognisable designs, one synonymous with the ‘90s, and made it relevant in 2017. They’ve achieved this by focusing on the most important part of the watch – the bracelet. Link actually began life as a bracelet back in 1987, and the intertwining ’s’ shape links are instantly recognisable. TAG Heuer has made the smart move of toning down the sportiness. This Link is dressy, with a well-sized 41mm cushion-shaped case, and brings the model firmly into the realm of dressy sports. It’s a wonderful watch on the wrist, a playful combination of light and shadow that’s beguiling. And while it’s likely that we’ll start seeing complications of the Link down the track, for now it’s only available as a simple three-handed piece. This version is priced at $3700.