HANDS-ON: The Breguet Classique 7147 gets an enamel update

Last year’s slim Breguet Classique 7147 had a spectacular dial, with a central section in detailed engine-turned guilloche and a subdial in a delicate crosshatch pattern. It was, not to overstate things, the star of the show. It’s a very difficult art to master, but there’s no doubt that Breguet has the technique down pat. So, imagine our surprise when we were presented this year’s update of the 7147 and there was not a hobnail or brushed finish to be seen. In its place is a single piece of lustrous grand feu enamel – an equally tricky technique to master – and this single change creates a completely new look for this dressy design. Thanks to the multiple firings the white enamel is of a brightness and lightness, and has an undulating sensuality, that’s hard to capture in photos (and even harder in words). It also has delicately hand-painted Breguet numerals (of course) and a delightful minute track (the non-cardinal markers are stylised fleur de lys) . The best bit though is the delicate dip that constitutes the small seconds subdial. The hands are pure Breguet, and made of hand-blued steel. Looking beyond the dial, everything is as it was with guilloche…

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8 years ago

Frank Geelen’s Baselworld 2017 Top 10 and Musing about the Fair

Back in 2008 the world faced a new challenge. The worldwide financial crisis began with the collapse of Lehman Brothers. The following year the watch industry was kind of nervous and saw a small drop in sales. And while the financial crisis went on, on a global scale (we’re still recovering from that), the big crisis in the watch industry didn’t really come through… yet. Last year was the first year that brands and luxury groups published numbers that showed serious signs of the crisis, and this year’s numbers are actually more than worrisome. This year the crisis could also be felt in the novelties as presented by the brands, not only during the SIHH in January, but also at the 100th edition of the Baselworld Watch & Jewelry show that has just come to an end. Still, it was possible to list ten watches that got me exited! However first some musings about this year’s edition of Baselworld…

8 years ago

Hands-On – Sinn EZM 12, Designed for Air Rescue Service (Specs & Price)

Unusual, with unique features especially designed for Air Rescue Service, the Sinn EZM 12 has been one of our cool surprises fomr the 2017 edition of Baselworld. A proper tool watch in a class of its own – clearly what you can expect from a brand such as Sinn, the German utilitarian watch maker.

8 years ago

HANDS-ON: Seventies style at its best – the Oris Chronoris Date

One watch leapt out at me from Oris’ 2017 collection – the Chronoris Date. Not only is the colour scheme and tonneau case shape pretty eye-catching, but it’s also an honest and authentic homage to the timepieces of the ‘70s. In fact the Chronoris name refers to a 1970 design that was the brand’s first chronograph. This reinterpretation isn’t a chrono, but it’s certainly an era appropriate design.  Given that I’ve got an incredibly soft spot for this sort of fun and funky design (I’ve been wanting an Omega Memomatic for ages, and – until it died – a compressor cased Bulova Accutron was one of my all time faves) my attraction to the Chronoris is perhaps unsurprising. Personal bias aside, the Chronoris Date is a winner of a watch, with a solid 39mm cushion shaped case with a pleasing radial brushed finish, paired with a domed sapphire crystal, 100m of water resistance and, as we’ve come to expect from Oris, it comes on a range of solid strap options. However, my favourite part of this watch is the dial. Seriously, look at it. The colour scheme of white, grey and black, with orange accents is just hot. I particularly…

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8 years ago

HANDS-ON: Seventies style at its best – the Oris Chronoris Date

One watch leapt out at me from Oris’ 2017 collection – the Chronoris Date. Not only is the colour scheme and tonneau case shape pretty eye-catching, but it’s also an honest and authentic homage to the timepieces of the ‘70s. In fact the Chronoris name refers to a 1970 design that was the brand’s first chronograph. This reinterpretation isn’t a chrono, but it’s certainly an era appropriate design.  Given that I’ve got an incredibly soft spot for this sort of fun and funky design (I’ve been wanting an Omega Memomatic for ages, and – until it died – a compressor cased Bulova Accutron was one of my all time faves) my attraction to the Chronoris is perhaps unsurprising. Personal bias aside, the Chronoris Date is a winner of a watch, with a solid 39mm cushion shaped case with a pleasing radial brushed finish, paired with a domed sapphire crystal, 100m of water resistance and, as we’ve come to expect from Oris, it comes on a range of solid strap options. However, my favourite part of this watch is the dial. Seriously, look at it. The colour scheme of white, grey and black, with orange accents is just hot. I particularly…

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8 years ago

Hands-On – The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback – A Slightly Vintage Chronograph with Nice Column-Wheel Movement

Part of the high-end collection, the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback has been first introduced in 2016, as the refined and technically advanced chronograph of the brand (which also comprises sporty and bold chronos). Rounded lines, bi-compax display for a vintage feel, balanced dial with precious finishes, a nice automatic chronograph with flyback function and actuated by column-wheel, the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback is pretty interesting. This year, at Baselworld 2017, the brand enlarges the collection with colored dials, with gold and steel offers.

8 years ago

HANDS-ON: The Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook, a cheeky ’60s reissue that swings both ways

Captain James Cook was a British explorer, navigator, cartographer, and captain in the Royal Navy and he is credited as being the first European to make contact with the eastern coastline of Australia. Considering the number of Europeans that make contact with the east coast these days – especially the bit between Sydney and Cairns – he definitely started a route that started the whole of Europe tanning. In more interesting news, to have a ‘Captain Cook’ in Australian (possibly Cockney) rhyming slang is to have a look at something. Yes, really. With those local references, how could we not be drawn to this reissue of a watch first released by Rado in 1962 of the same name (minus the HyperChrome) that swings both ways with contemporary/commercial and vintage designs? There are three new references, including a white women’s version with diamonds, a limited edition (of 1962) 37mm dark grey sunburst dial version (pictured here) on vintage leather strap and a larger 45mm titanium model. Despite water resistance of 100m in the first two versions and 200m for the titanium one, In our meeting Rado’s staff were quick to point out that it’s “not a dive watch”, functionally speaking. The Hyperchrome Captain Cook is quite petite by modern standards, a perception further enhanced by…

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8 years ago

HANDS-ON: The Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook, a cheeky ’60s reissue that swings both ways

Captain James Cook was a British explorer, navigator, cartographer, and captain in the Royal Navy and he is credited as being the first European to make contact with the eastern coastline of Australia. Considering the number of Europeans that make contact with the east coast these days – especially the bit between Sydney and Cairns – he definitely started a route that started the whole of Europe tanning. In more interesting news, to have a ‘Captain Cook’ in Australian (possibly Cockney) rhyming slang is to have a look at something. Yes, really. With those local references, how could we not be drawn to this reissue of a watch first released by Rado in 1962 of the same name (minus the HyperChrome) that swings both ways with contemporary/commercial and vintage designs? There are three new references, including a white women’s version with diamonds, a limited edition (of 1962) 37mm dark grey sunburst dial version (pictured here) on vintage leather strap and a larger 45mm titanium model. Despite water resistance of 100m in the first two versions and 200m for the titanium one, In our meeting Rado’s staff were quick to point out that it’s “not a dive watch”, functionally speaking. The Hyperchrome Captain Cook is quite petite by modern standards, a perception further enhanced by…

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8 years ago

First Look – Ultra-Cool, Affordable and Very Omega – The New Railmaster Master Chronometer Collection

At Baselworld 2017, when arriving on the Omega Watches booth, there was the 1957 Trilogy (Speedmaster, Seamaster, Railmaster). Believe us, these watches are insanely desirable, perfectly executed, highly faithful, and… sold out. We’ll have a closer look at them in a few days. Still there was another watch full of interest, a watch that truly represent what Omega was, is and should be, the new Omega Railmaster Master Chronometer Collection: affordable, toolish, greatly powered, well proportioned and overall, just cool. A discreet star of the show, that we’re about to look closer.

8 years ago