A century of history of the world’s biggest and most comprehensive watch fair is impossible to sum up in just a few lines. However, that is exactly what I am attempting to do here as the centenary edition of Baselworld approaches in 2017.
Like many other Swiss watchmakers today seeking to assert themselves in changing times, Maurice Lacroix is examining its character and concentrating on its strengths. That leads me to the Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph, which I actually saw hands-on in this form at Baselworld.
It has become a recurring game for us here, at Monochrome-Watches. In the same way we just shared with you our predictions for sister-brand Rolex, we’ll show what we expect to see from Tudor at Baselworld 2017. Just like previous years (see here and here), this article is pure imagination-based and is nothing official. Yet, the watches we’ll show you don’t come out of the blue and are well-thought propositions. After a year 2016 mainly based on the Heritage Black Bay (Black Bay Bronze, Black Bay 36, Black Bay Dark, Black Bay Manufacture), we think it’s time for Tudor to move in other directions, to look at other collections and to explore new territories. Thus, as you’ll see, here is our dark and travel-oriented Tudor Baselworld 2017 collection.
In 2016, Seiko positively surprised collectors with the international launch of the Presage collection, a lineup of only mechanical and classical watches, clearly intended to please watch enthusiasts usually more inclined to buy Swiss high-end pieces. In just a few months, Seiko Presage has taken center stage, being very well received. Also, at Baselworld 2016, Seiko presented the widely acclaimed and superb 60th anniversary chronograph with an enamel dial. Today, Seiko announces the launch of a new range, the Seiko Presage Enamel Collection, using the same high-end dials.
For 2017, you’ll see more style options for Bell & Ross’ most recognizable design, in its most wearable size. Introduced ahead of Baselworld, the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Horograph is the French-based brand’s take on the German-minimalist design school of Bauhaus, while the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Horolum is a twist on the classic Bell & Ross look.
The fact that the LVMH Watch Division, led by J.C. Biver, is quite inclined in sports partnerships is no secret. There are dozens of them. Today, the Group brings back on board one of their long-time partners, Manchester United. Indeed, the Football Club was partnering with sister-brand Hublot in the early 2010s, before moving to another Swiss brand. Well, the team is back in Biver’s portfolio, as a partnership was signed between TAG Heuer and Manchester United in 2016, TAG being official timekeeper. Both partners now just announce the creation of two TAG Heuer Manchester United Special Edition Chronographs, based on the Carrera Heuer-01 and the Formula 1.
When Hublot released two takes on sapphire Big Bangs last year – the Unico Sapphire and the All Black version – we suspected that wouldn’t be the last we’d see of the clear case material. Lo and behold, our hunch has proved correct with the release of the Big Bang Unico Magic Sapphire. Compared to 2016’s white-on-white and jet black limited editions, the Magic Sapphire feels far less ghostly and much more tangible. This is largely down to the smart design. By using their ‘Black Magic’ visual style with its contrasting elements, such as the black strap and texture-heavy dial with red accents, Hublot has made the spectacular 45mm sapphire case shine. So while the specs of the Magic Sapphire are essentially the same as before, the result is a completely different watch, and one that really pops IRL. Significant wrist appeal is only part of the picture. One of the most impressive aspects of this watch is the fact Hublot can make it at volume. Though it’s a limited edition of 500, being able to produce so many cases from sapphire – a material that’s notoriously tricky to work with – is no mean feat, and one the brand is rightly…
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As mid-range luxury fashion watches go, Gucci produces some rather cool stuff. For 2017, the Gucci Dive collection has a few interesting models that seek to combine the appeal of a sport watch with the look of embroidered fabric or printed rubber.
Since its introduction, the Oris Aquis has always been the high-performance dive watch of the brand. Sturdy, robust, strong and powerful, this watch is all about performance and reliability. So to say, a real tool watch, which earned the status of icon in the Oris collection. Even if it remained modern, Oris has decided to bring a new take on the Aquis Date Collection, with subtle evolutions of most components, in order to bring modernity and extra-refinement to a still very toolish and professional-oriented watch. Here is the updated Oris Aquis Date Collection for 2017, more refined, still powerful.
Bell & Ross’s latest take on its classic square draws inspiration not just from aviation, but also – far less predictably – from the realms of art and architecture. The BR 03-92 Horulum is a monochrome monolith of a watch, a 42mm bead-blasted case with matching sandwich dial and complementary pale green C3 Superluminova hands and markings. On this occasion, the aeronautical tie-in isn’t quite what you might expect. It’s not a tribute to the latest generation strike fighter or specialised avionics instrumentation. No, Bell & Ross has gone for something far more down-to-earth this time around: the humble tarmac. The matt grey colour is inspired by the concrete of the runway, with the green lume evoking the lights that guide pilots when landing at night. So far so Bell & Ross. But where do art and architecture come in? Well, the broader design inspiration for the Horolum comes from the Bauhaus (the German design school, not the ’80s goth band), whose utilitarian take on modernist design was hugely influential in the 20th century. Conveniently, it’s also an approach that fits neatly with the tool-like aesthetic of the watch. For the past few years the word doing the rounds of publications such as Monocle and Cereal has…
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