Dress Watches Archives - Page 57 of 82

Introducing – US-based Watchmaker RGM Reissues the Limited-Edition William Penn Series

RGM Watch Co., based in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania and founded in 1992 by Roland G. Murphy, is quite literally the only true American watch company standing. Unlike other brands that might build cases, dials or straps in America, RGM manufactures their own high-grade, in-house calibres that rival comparable movements from Switzerland. They’re a complete watch manufacturer. My first serious mechanical watch was a Model 107-P Pilot, an entry-level RGM piece (with an ETA 2892-A2) that’s also the oldest in their portfolio, produced since the mid-1990’s. They often use antique, hand-operated machinery to craft dials and to hand-polish components, mixing modern and traditional techniques to produce luxury watches that are often limited editions. Many have advanced complications, such as the Pennsylvania Tourbillon or Caliber 20 (with a 2^ndtype motor barrel and “Precise Moonphase”), and are painstakingly adorned with elaborate engine-turned (guilloché) dials and movements like the Model 801-EE. One of their most popular watch series was the Model 121-M William Penn line from the years 1999 to 2000, and in RGM style, they have reissued the watches in a very limited series of 10.

Hands-on – The Surprisingly Affordable Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar

If you want to dip your toe into the world of sophisticated complications, it usually comes at a price. A tourbillon, for example, can easily add CHF 20,000 or more to the price of a watch. The Longines Master Collection has been around since 2005 and serves as a contemporary alternative to their revered Heritage Collection (with more traditional designs). The Master Collection has a wide variety of complications, from power reserve displays to calendar chronographs with moonphase and more, but these new models are the first for Longines to have an annual calendar. The Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar not only offers a more sophisticated calendar complication than the norm but does so at an impressively affordable price.

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Big Date Purity

Following the now well-known “purity” strategy of the brand – and that certain sense for anti-conformism that can make us laugh or make us think – H. Moser & Cie. continues to deploy the cleaned look of their watches over the collection, by now refining the Venturer Big Date. Less is more and if the focus is on legibility, it is done without losing the basics of the brand. Cleaner but still bold, meet the H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Big Date Purity.

Hands-on – New Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Off-Centered with Meteorite or Stromatolite Dials

Métiers d’art and natural stones are familiar themes at Jaquet Droz – for instance, Onyx has already been used in the past. The brand regularly adds new, rare stones to its decorative repertory. In the frame of the celebration of its 280th anniversary, the brand unveils new limited-edition watches with meteorite or stromatolite dials, based on the iconic 8-shaped watch with a twist, the Grande Seconde Off-Centered.

Women’s Watch Wednesday – Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony

For the last three years, Chopard has adopted the graceful peony flower to decorate its L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier 35mm limited editions for women. This year is no exception and Chopard unveiled a beautiful 18k rose gold edition of eight watches decorated with the silhouette of black paper-cut peonies on the dial and exquisite Fleurisanne engraving on the bridges of the movement. As the female representative of the L.U.C XP family, the watch is fitted with a Chopard manufacture ultra-thin automatic movement.

Introducing – Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Collection 2018 with New Openworked Movements and Slimmer Cases

When Lambert took over Montblanc, the idea was simple: bringing a lot for less money. This didn’t mean that all watches had to be affordable, but rather that watches were priced lower than expected, even with a true horological content. This gave birth to a Sub-10k Perpetual Calendar, the 4810 ExoTourbillon Slim or a sub-7k annual calendar. Following the same idea, Montblanc introduces 3 new watches in the Heritage Chronométrie collection, still complex but with new, contemporary design codes.

Face-to-Face – The Breguet Classique Tourbillon 5367 vs. Early Breguet Pocket-Watches – And Why it’s Such a Quintessential Breguet

The restrained and discreet watches of the Classique Collection are unequivocal, unmistakable members of the Breguet family. Without even thinking about it, they are immediately recognisable as a Breguet. This is all due to what the Maison names the “unmistakable signs” or the quintessential design codes used by the brand for over two centuries. In order to understand exactly what this means in modern-day creations, we’ve visited the Breguet Museum in Paris, talked with Emmanuel Breguet and bring you the brand’s latest creation – the Breguet Classique Tourbillon 5367 – next to two of the most important and earliest creations of Abraham-Louis Breguet.

Women’s Watch Wednesday – The 2018 Rolex Oyster Pereptual Datejust 36: Is This the Perfect “Boyfriend’s Watch”?

Having recovered from the jubilation following the release of the steel GMT Master II Pepsi during Baselworld 2018, we can now turn our attention to another candidate in the classic Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 line that is out to conquer the hearts of men… and women. Housed in a two-tone Everose Rolesor case (combination of steel and pink gold), Rolex has fitted the watch with its new-generation calibre 3235 and given the case some design tweaks. Handsome and refined with just the right touch of luxurious rose gold, practical for everyday wear and tear, robust and ready for action sports yet with enough style to work as a casual dress watch… what’s not to love about the Datejust 36? So, a word of warning to all you boyfriends out there: do not leave this watch unattended.

Women’s Watch Wednesday – Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 7234R Lady

The turbulence generated by Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref.5524 seems to have abated and the model has landed as a stable member of the Calatrava family. In addition to a fresh iteration of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time for men in warm rose gold, Patek unveiled its first self-winding Travel Time model for women just ahead of Baselworld in an unprecedented move for the brand via an Instagram campaign. There have been choice pickings in the complications arena for women at Patek Philippe in 2018 with the launch of the manual-winding ladies’ chronograph in a round case and this pilot’s watch for women. Equipped with a useful dual time function, Ref. 7234R is housed in refined 37.5mm rose gold case with a glossy chocolate-brown dial decorated with vintage touches. The tasteful combination of rose gold and brown is quintessential Patek making this an excellent choice for globetrotting women, while the sporty, slightly manly charisma of a pilot’s watch will appeal to all those Amelia Earhart out there with a taste for high-flying adventures.

Hands-on – Carl F. Bucherer Expands its Manero Peripheral Collection with Larger 43mm Versions

The Manero Peripheral certainly represents Carl F. Bucherer at its best. Not the most technical watch in the collection (the Tourbillon Double Peripheral holds the title) yet probably the most balanced one. Elegant, sophisticated, technically interesting and well-priced, it is a watch we’ve been regularly praising, here on MONOCHROME. Aware of the demand for larger watches in certain regions (the US market first, and since Bucherer acquired Tourneau, new opportunities opened to Carl F. Bucherer on this market), the brand introduces a larger version of its Manero Peripheral, now with a 43mm case.

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Category: Dress Watches