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Review – Vacheron Constantin Historiques Triple Calendar 1948

There is no question Vacheron Constantin makes exceptionally fine timepieces. The brand really comes into its element though when it focuses its attention on vintage-inspired models (in my humble opinion at least). These models invariably belong to the Historiques collection, which celebrates some of the brand’s significant models from the past by offering a fresh take. My previous favourite was the 1955 Cornes de Vache Chronograph launched in 2015 but that model was recently usurped by the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Triple Calendar 1948 I am reviewing here today – which is the luxurious and moonphase-equipped sister of the steel Historiques Triple Calendar 1942 reviewed here.

Introducing – Laurent Ferrier Galet Square Regulateur Black – Same Display, Different Case

With this new watch, Laurent Ferrier presents the compilation of its best features: the combination of red gold with a black dial dear to the founder, the regulator display that has been introduced a year ago, the in-house micro-rotor movement and the elegant, stylish Galet Square case. Yet, for the first time, all of them are reunited in a single watch, giving a desirable and well-balanced watch. Meet the Laurent Ferrier Galet Square Regulateur Black.

Introducing – US-based Watchmaker RGM Reissues the Limited-Edition William Penn Series

RGM Watch Co., based in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania and founded in 1992 by Roland G. Murphy, is quite literally the only true American watch company standing. Unlike other brands that might build cases, dials or straps in America, RGM manufactures their own high-grade, in-house calibres that rival comparable movements from Switzerland. They’re a complete watch manufacturer. My first serious mechanical watch was a Model 107-P Pilot, an entry-level RGM piece (with an ETA 2892-A2) that’s also the oldest in their portfolio, produced since the mid-1990’s. They often use antique, hand-operated machinery to craft dials and to hand-polish components, mixing modern and traditional techniques to produce luxury watches that are often limited editions. Many have advanced complications, such as the Pennsylvania Tourbillon or Caliber 20 (with a 2^ndtype motor barrel and “Precise Moonphase”), and are painstakingly adorned with elaborate engine-turned (guilloché) dials and movements like the Model 801-EE. One of their most popular watch series was the Model 121-M William Penn line from the years 1999 to 2000, and in RGM style, they have reissued the watches in a very limited series of 10.

Hands-on – The Surprisingly Affordable Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar

If you want to dip your toe into the world of sophisticated complications, it usually comes at a price. A tourbillon, for example, can easily add CHF 20,000 or more to the price of a watch. The Longines Master Collection has been around since 2005 and serves as a contemporary alternative to their revered Heritage Collection (with more traditional designs). The Master Collection has a wide variety of complications, from power reserve displays to calendar chronographs with moonphase and more, but these new models are the first for Longines to have an annual calendar. The Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar not only offers a more sophisticated calendar complication than the norm but does so at an impressively affordable price.

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Big Date Purity

Following the now well-known “purity” strategy of the brand – and that certain sense for anti-conformism that can make us laugh or make us think – H. Moser & Cie. continues to deploy the cleaned look of their watches over the collection, by now refining the Venturer Big Date. Less is more and if the focus is on legibility, it is done without losing the basics of the brand. Cleaner but still bold, meet the H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Big Date Purity.

Hands-on – New Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Off-Centered with Meteorite or Stromatolite Dials

Métiers d’art and natural stones are familiar themes at Jaquet Droz – for instance, Onyx has already been used in the past. The brand regularly adds new, rare stones to its decorative repertory. In the frame of the celebration of its 280th anniversary, the brand unveils new limited-edition watches with meteorite or stromatolite dials, based on the iconic 8-shaped watch with a twist, the Grande Seconde Off-Centered.

Women’s Watch Wednesday – Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony

For the last three years, Chopard has adopted the graceful peony flower to decorate its L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier 35mm limited editions for women. This year is no exception and Chopard unveiled a beautiful 18k rose gold edition of eight watches decorated with the silhouette of black paper-cut peonies on the dial and exquisite Fleurisanne engraving on the bridges of the movement. As the female representative of the L.U.C XP family, the watch is fitted with a Chopard manufacture ultra-thin automatic movement.

Introducing – Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Collection 2018 with New Openworked Movements and Slimmer Cases

When Lambert took over Montblanc, the idea was simple: bringing a lot for less money. This didn’t mean that all watches had to be affordable, but rather that watches were priced lower than expected, even with a true horological content. This gave birth to a Sub-10k Perpetual Calendar, the 4810 ExoTourbillon Slim or a sub-7k annual calendar. Following the same idea, Montblanc introduces 3 new watches in the Heritage Chronométrie collection, still complex but with new, contemporary design codes.

Face-to-Face – The Breguet Classique Tourbillon 5367 vs. Early Breguet Pocket-Watches – And Why it’s Such a Quintessential Breguet

The restrained and discreet watches of the Classique Collection are unequivocal, unmistakable members of the Breguet family. Without even thinking about it, they are immediately recognisable as a Breguet. This is all due to what the Maison names the “unmistakable signs” or the quintessential design codes used by the brand for over two centuries. In order to understand exactly what this means in modern-day creations, we’ve visited the Breguet Museum in Paris, talked with Emmanuel Breguet and bring you the brand’s latest creation – the Breguet Classique Tourbillon 5367 – next to two of the most important and earliest creations of Abraham-Louis Breguet.

Women’s Watch Wednesday – The 2018 Rolex Oyster Pereptual Datejust 36: Is This the Perfect “Boyfriend’s Watch”?

Having recovered from the jubilation following the release of the steel GMT Master II Pepsi during Baselworld 2018, we can now turn our attention to another candidate in the classic Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 line that is out to conquer the hearts of men… and women. Housed in a two-tone Everose Rolesor case (combination of steel and pink gold), Rolex has fitted the watch with its new-generation calibre 3235 and given the case some design tweaks. Handsome and refined with just the right touch of luxurious rose gold, practical for everyday wear and tear, robust and ready for action sports yet with enough style to work as a casual dress watch… what’s not to love about the Datejust 36? So, a word of warning to all you boyfriends out there: do not leave this watch unattended.

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Category: Dress Watches