HANDS-ON: New balance – the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph
One of the most interesting — and important — new watch releases I saw while in Geneva recently wasn’t shown at SIHH at all. Rather, it was presented by TAG Heuer. On the surface the watch is typically TAG Heuer, in look and indeed nomenclature — it’s called the Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph, and has that large, modular case construction that we’re so familiar with by now, along with carbon lugs and bezels that are straight-up cribbed from their recent Carbon capsule collection. The dial texture is a little different, with a hexagonal structure that looks cool and serves as some neat foreshadowing for the Nano part of the equation. There’s also a popping fluoro highlight that looks cool, and is particularly prominent on the tourbillon cage, which is really what this watch is all about. So, a quick bit of watch-engineering 101 — the balance spring, the beating heart of the regulating organ, sets the pace and is fundamental to effective timekeeping. It’s also delicate, sensitive to the effects of pesky outside influences like gravity, magnetism, temperature and the like. Over the centuries, numerous improvements to the spring have been conceived — including the tourbillon itself (which…
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When Montblanc gave us a privileged preview of its new Heritage collection in Miami back in October, our gut told us that they had a winner in the salmon-dialled Heritage Pulsograph. Forward three months to SIHH: 36 exhibiting brands and I-don’t-know-how-many-hundreds of new watches later, our opinion is, if anything, stronger than ever. With the Heritage Pulsograph’s immaculately judged balance of good looks, technical content, quality of execution and price, Montblanc has hit the nail on the head. First, let’s talk aesthetics: vintage-inspired watches have been a thing for some years now – and thanks to its head of watches, Davide Cerrato, Montblanc is a shining example of how to do it right. (Cerrato has previous form, as you may know, having harnessed Tudor’s archives to transform it from also-ran to super-cool brand half a decade ago.) At Montblanc, he has the rich archives of Minerva to draw on – and the Heritage Pulsograph is very similar to a 1940s Minerva monopusher chrono. But it’s no slavish copy. We were able to line up both watches together and, on the new model, the lines of the case and lugs are cleaner, the surfaces flatter, giving the whole watch a more contemporary…
My last list — a trio of well-priced SIHH offerings — could be neatly broken down into a loose theme of air, sea and land. But this trifecta, covering the much broader $10,000 – $35,000 price bracket, is much less easily pigeon-holed. But if I had to find commonalities I could well go with elegant shapes. The Piaget Polo S A case of a simple change making a big difference, I like this rich green take on the sporty Polo S so much more than I would have expected. It’s an absolute cracker, and a real change in personality from the blue. The Cartier Santos de Cartier Chronograph Next up, from Cartier, the masters of shaped watches, is the new Santos de Cartier Chronograph. This is a bit of a funny pick for me, as chronographs, especially more dressy ones, aren’t typically my bag. But there you go, the combination of beefed-up Santos case (not that it needed beefing) and unusual chronograph system won me over. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds There’s not much new or novel here to win me over. It’s not a new watch, or even a new case. It’s simply a new colour — rich red…
Look, I’m going to be honest with you. Believe it or not, SIHH doesn’t have a whole lot on offer in the sub $10,000 category. It’s a sweet spot for one or two of the brands, and a handful of others have one or two watches that fit the bill. But even given the fact that there are not too many watches to choose from, I found this a hard trio to settle on. But in the end I settled on three stunners. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire I mean, just look at this thing. Pure, purpose-built perfection. Aside from the clean design and fabric strap, the 39mm case and new in-house movement seal the deal. The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere LE The Geosphere is already a pretty wild watch, with those twin hemispheres and that compass bezel. I think it looks even better in green, which provides a perfect complementary contrast (is that even a thing?) to the bronze case. Bravo, Montblanc. The Ulysse Nardin Diver While freaks and underwater love was all the rage at Ulysse Nardin, I found myself falling for a different kind of diver. This 42mm chunk of steel on sailcloth. It’s got just the…
It’s lovely and ironic. We work with time every day, and yet we are no closer to mastering it. Here we are at the first major watch fair of the year, early in 2019, filming our personal favourites from the year before. While we are clearly late, the extra distance has provided more clarity. I am pretty sure about this elite group of 10; in various ways they have already stood the test of time, and when I think about them, they still come in hot. Often we are compiling lists – as we will do this afternoon, summing up the best of SIHH 2019 in different price points – practically with the new watches in our hands for the first time. There is no time for emotion recollected in tranquility as Wordsworth would say. I do hope you enjoy, please let me know your thoughts in the YouTube comments!
Yes, I know it’s mid Jan, and the traditional time for a summary top ten listicle is late December. But you know what I’ve always said? Better late than never. So, here we are, knee-deep in the best watches of SIHH and Andrew and I are engaging in some 2018 reflection. But really, though, these watches are so good that they manage to transcend the amorphous concept of short-lived “novelty” and deserve to be celebrated beyond their initial marketing period. At least that’s how I’m justifying it to myself. So, from Chanel to Omega, sit back and enjoy the ride …
Over the last few years, Ulysse Nardin has been greatly expanding its Freak family (a smart move say I), and the latest member is the Freak X, which joins the Freak Out and Freak Vision. Now, before we break down this watch, a quick word about X, which is serving as something of a thematic moniker for the brand this year. It’s a good theme, evoking everything from mystery to gravity to (depending on how many Xs you use) eroticism. All things Ulysse Nardin is quite adept to translating into watch form. Though I can’t help but wonder if UN CEO Patrick Pruniaux is borrowing a trick from his former colleagues at Apple here. Either way, it works. So, the Freak X. This watch is something interesting, and if you’ve been following the evolution of the Freak recently, somewhat expected. It’s something of a hybrid watch — a pared-back Freak if you will. The trademark carousel time-telling escapement (with silicon balance wheel) is still there, but it’s now a module on top of Ulysse Nardin’s UN-118 movement. But it’s more simple in execution than its siblings: there’s less gear and wheel action going on, and there’s a crown where you’d…
There is absolutely zero doubt that Moser know their way around a fine dial. Their fumé is hypnotic perfection at its best. Last year the brand upped the ante with their conceptual perpetual with impossibly black Vantablack dial. Well, if this well of blackness (which is a wonder on the wrist) leaves you as cold as the black hole it evokes, there’s another, brighter option out there. The Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold, with a more familiar, blue fumé dial. This piece, limited to 50 pieces (and only one in Australia — Melbourne, to be exact), offers, in addition to Moser’s trademarked dial, their wearable combination of masculine, swoopingly architectural case with those delicately scalloped sides and shapely bezel. It’s bold, but not overpowering, thanks to its aggressively clean styling and reasonably sized 42mm wide by 12.9mm tall case. And, of course, let’s not forget about the moon itself in this equation. I love that we get a moon phase, accurate to over a millennia without the clutter of any other calendar information. It’s quite a statement, and one that comes across with great effect. H. Moser & Cie’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Australian pricing and availability H.…
Really, at the heart of the appeal of a mechanical watch is the ticking, whirring escapement that sets the pace. That and the assemblage of wheel and bridges that powers and supports it. So it’s apt then that this Rado cuts to the core quickly: the True Open Heart lives up to its name, exposing its metal innards enough to satisfy the curiosity of the wearer, while still living up to Rado’s strong, and distinct sense of design, with its slick plasma toned ceramic, and a black dial that maintains legibility despite its pared-back nature. Rado True Open Heart Australian Pricing Rado True Open Heart, $2900
The remarkable Hora Mundi ref. 5717 made its first appearance in 2011, to an enthusiastic reception. Then, in 2016, when Breguet launched an updated version (ref. 5727) they spoke of it as a replacement for the original. But some things are simply too special to discontinue. Thank goodness – for we rarely encounter a watch that combines technical genius, great beauty and immense charm in the way that this version of Hora Mundi does. For those of us who are constantly on the move, a multiple-time-zone complication is one of the most useful things to have in a watch – and, unsurprisingly, it’s offered by almost all of the top makers. More surprising, though, is how little variety there is in the style of display: a pointer hand or a sub-dial and that’s pretty much where the choice ends. Breguet, however, chose to give a highly original visual expression to its very different version of the complication. More on the brains later, but first let’s focus on the beauty – because, really, the design and the quality of execution are exceptional. The case is classic Breguet, with the kind of attention to detail that you know only if you know:…