IN-DEPTH: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Annuel Phase de Lune
The story in a second: A classy calendar for the life aquatic. Expanding on a dive watch collection — especially one with such a rich history as the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms —is a challenge at the best of times. Do you stick to classic tool watch roots? Do you step outside the box with a complication or design with more commercial appeal? Do you start toying with unorthodox case materials? There are a lot of ways to go here, and as we’ve seen year after year, the results can be fantastic, just as easily as they can be questionable. We’ve seen Blancpain take some interesting approaches with the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe collection recently, including the blue ceramic-cased flyback chronograph Ocean Commitment II, but for 2018 we were presented with a couple of very unexpected dive watches from the longstanding brand. The most curious is the annual calendar moonphase (Quantième Annuel Phase de Lune, per the brand), taking the classic 43mm satin-brushed Bathyscaphe case, and fitting it with a very vintage-y dressy-feeling triple calendar moonphase complication. It’s weird, it’s confusing, it’s the first and only diver with this complication, but it also makes the mind roam to the much-loved phrase: “That’s…
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One of the more intriguing releases from Tudor this year — and one that didn’t get quite the attention it otherwise would have, thanks to the show-stealing GMT — was the classically styled 1926. Taking its name from the year the Tudor name was registered, it also owes some design cues to this golden era of style. Take, for example, the finely textured waffle dial, with the blued Arabic numerals interspersed with arrow-head markers. Lovely, but also wearable, and entirely wearable nearly 100 years later. The case is well-sized, the movement rock solid, and the solidly made bracelet adds a nice dash of slash. It all means you’ve got a watch that looks the business, no matter what the business is. Tudor 1926 Australian pricing Tudor 1926, white dial with blue numerals, $2210
TAG Heuer has never been afraid of trying new things, and the new Carbon collection is proof. To date, it consists of three popular models that have been given a carbon makeover: the Monaco, the Aquaracer and the Carrera. Earlier this week, we showed you the stealthier Carbon Carrera, but today we’re going to make a quick trip to shine town, with the carbon and rose gold model. Now, funnily enough, thanks to the liberal lashings of gold on the dial, crown and lugs, the carbon inclusions on this watch are quite understated, with only the bezel being made of the light and interesting carbon material. Add to this the fact that the case middle is made from steel given a black PVD treatment, and a rubber strap is attached to the spring bars, and you’ve got a watch that has quite a lot going on. But you know what, it works pretty well, especially if aggressively modern takes on two-tone floats your boat. In addition to the obvious aesthetic elements, there are two things worth noting about this Carrera. First of all, this is the 43mm version, which makes a big on-the-wrist difference compared to the 45mm version you…
Many of Rado’s case designs lean towards what we can, in air quotes, refer to as ‘designer’. Sleek, modernist offerings that evoke a high-concept design language. The HyperChrome has some elements of these, in the lines of bracelet in particular, but the overall shape is one of their more traditional — a simple, sturdy round watch. However, if that’s the shape, the details and execution here are something else. Firstly, ceramic, and lots of it. And then there’s the open heart, offering a clear view into the inner, automatic workings of this bold watch. And finally, the brown ceramic number adds some diamonds to the equation. So, really, this isn’t your typical round watch. Sure, there’s a lot going on, but it’s all kinds of awesome. Rado HyperChrome XL Open Heart Australian pricing Rado HyperChrome XL Open Heart, $3850, or $6175 with diamonds.
The blacked-out Carbon capsule collection takes some sporty TAG Heuer staples and remixes them with carbon, in its various forms — there’s the Bamford Monaco, the colour-popping Aquaracer, and this guy, the Carrera Heuer 02 Carbon. Now, the familiar case on this Carrera isn’t all carbon; only the lugs and bezel are made from the lightweight, high-tech composite, more than enough to give the look (and the feel) of the material, while the central case elements are made from more conventional steel (albeit blacked-out). The other nifty thing about this watch is the Heuer 02 movement, which is a thoroughly modern model of a modern integrated chronograph. All told, the carbon additions to this boutique-only edition make for an interesting, and attractive, package. TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 Carbon Australian pricing and availability TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 Carbon, exclusive to TAG Heuer boutiques, $10,100
At its heart, Panerai is about diving. The brand was born under the waves and continues to call the underwater world home. Which is why we found ourselves, several weeks ago, watching — slightly nervously — as a brace of Panerai Submersibles dipped into a giant tank full of rays, sharks and other (less threatening) fish at the Melbourne Aquarium. Thankfully, the watches were attached to the wrists of professional divers, who put them through their paces, leaving us in the position to debate the various merits of three stars in the Submersible line-up: the Submersible Carbotech, the Submersible in 42mm stainless steel, and the Submersible BMG-Tech. And while these three watches are all rock-solid, purpose-built dive watches, they also show off Panerai’s expertise when it comes to materials science. The Carbotech, named for the carbon composite it’s made from, is aggressive-looking, light-weight and downright cool. The 42mm steel model is classic in its construction and design. Finally, the BMG-Tech offers a bit of both: traditional Panerai styling with decidedly non-traditional material science in the form of the amorphous alloy case. For all that the superficial look is the same, these three watches are decidedly different.
There are a lot of things I love about Hublot, and I’ve got to say, this watch manages to cram pretty much all of them (barring ceramic) into one awesome, 45mm package. It’s the Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow, and it does pretty much what it says on the tin. Let’s start with the case. Hublot has been playing with (and seriously democratising) ultra-hard, ultra-slick and ultra-cool synthetic sapphire cases since 2016, and it’s become something of a staple in their higher-end limited editions. For all its transparency, this 45mm wide and 14.25mm thick case has stacks of presence, providing an almost unbearably crisp, sharp silhouette. The incredible wrist presence provides an amazing juxtaposition with the transparent nature of the material. But in a twist that’s exclusive to the Australian and Japanese markets, Hublot has brought the rainbow heat to the equation, with a bezel stunningly set with 48 baguette-cut stones, arranged in a vivid, cascading rainbow. Ordinarily, the sapphire and rainbow combination would have had me swooning, but the movement takes it to the next level. It’s not a chronograph, but it is a tourbillon — a manually wound one with a hefty five days of…
At first glance, you could be forgiven for thinking that this is a 47mm Submersible much like any other. On second, or perhaps third glance, the truth becomes more apparent. This is a Panerai unlike any other, and that difference is thanks to the case, the BMG in BMG-Tech. BMG is short for Bulk Metallic Glass, and it’s what the case is made out of. When I learned this, it took a while to get my head around it. Glass is in the name, but this case is far from fragile. BMG is a glass-like alloy of zirconium, copper, aluminium, titanium and nickel. These components are formed at high pressure and high temperature and then rapidly cooled to prevent crystallisation, meaning that the atoms are randomly aligned, which ensures the material is very strong and durable. What this wizardry/metallurgy means is that Bulk Metallic Glass is lighter than steel, harder, corrosion resistant and antimagnetic. On a purpose-built dive watch of this size, these are pretty great attributes to have. But the case isn’t the only winsome charm this Submersible possesses. The dial is a rich, vivid blue, which moves from navy to a near-azure hue, depending on the light. It’s…
When it comes to materials, it’s hard to beat Rado. The brand is a master of innovative materials. They pioneered ultra hard metals and ceramics, and continue to push the realms of the possible. The latest is Ceramos, an alloy of ceramic and metal that offers the best of both worlds — the lightness and scratch-resistance of ceramic, paired with the finish and lustre of metal. Here they’ve chosen to deploy Ceramos on the relatively conservative DiaMaster Thinline, a classic two-hander with a date. So, if you like your tradition with a healthy dose of technical, check out the Rado DiaMaster Thinline Ceramos. Rado DiaMaster Thinline Ceramos Australian pricing Rado DiaMaster Thinline Ceramos, $3025.
At first glance, Panerai’s watches share a reassuring familiarity — large cases, large crown guards and a dial design that puts legibility front and centre. A close look at the catalogue will show that the brand born from its Italian diving heritage has quite a lot of diversity on offer, particularly when it comes to case materials. From bronze to ceramic and (most recently) Bulk Metallic Glass, Panerai has strong form when it comes to material innovation. And today we’re having a closer look at one of the most interesting examples from recent times: Carbotech. Before we talk about the case material, let’s step back for a second and look at the bigger picture. PAM00616 is a 47mm Luminor Submersible, one of the brand’s beefiest cases, good for 300m of depth, and a standout thanks to the solid dive bezel and that patented crown guard. The watch is impressive on the inside, too, with a big P.9000 calibre ticking away, a double-barrelled beauty that’s good for three days of power. It’s a watch that you might reasonably expect to weigh the wrist down. But it doesn’t. That’s where the Carbotech comes in. Aside from its obvious visual charms, Carbotech is…