HANDS-ON: The Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium Alternative Pavé
To my mind, the watches coming out of Hublot’s partnership with contemporary artist Richard Orlinski have been some of the brand’s most striking. The bold, geometric look manages to be both in keeping with Hublot’s design ethos, while looking on-trend. At the heart of this, Orlinski’s appeal is the facets, which allows the typically blocky case of the Classic Fusion to play with light and shade in intriguing ways. This titanium-cased Alternative Pavé version of the Orlinski takes the faceted concept to the next level by adding 312 finely faceted diamonds into the mix. There are 156 diamonds, set in two rows on the bezel, and a further 156 set into the case. The total weight of the stones is around 2 carats. The fully set bezel certainly provides a very pretty frame for the skeletonised dial, but for me it’s the rocks on the case that stand out. Seemingly random, alternating facets have been pavé set (giving the watch its name), with the diamond-free titanium surfaces polished to a high, mirror-like shine. The effect is, quite frankly, stunning. Now, I know stones on watches aren’t to everyone’s taste, and I understand why. Often, the use of diamonds is done…
The post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Titanium Alternative Pavé appeared first on Time and Tide Watches.
We’ve spent a bit of time this week going back and forth over the finer points of Seiko’s latest Executive Sports Astrons, from the blingy SSE170J to the tennis-y SSE174J. Today, we’re having a look at another member of the family, which is, I have to say, my pick of the bunch: the blue-detailed SSE167J. Not only am I a sucker for a blue dial, but, for me, that glossy, three-dimensional ceramic bezel is a winner. Having said that, the surprise hit for me was that small mother-of-pearl second time zone display. Mother-of-pearl (or MOP to its friends) is a material typically found on more female-focused watches, but I’ll be darned if it doesn’t work a treat on this space-age Seiko. Watch the video and you’ll see what I mean. Seiko Astron Executive Sports SSE167J Australian pricing Seiko Astron SSE167J, $4200
The Tradition is a very special watch in Breguet’s prestigious collection. The brand is renowned for their classic style and peerless heritage. The Tradition collection — which debuted in 2005 — epitomises these values while managing to look effortlessly modern. It’s quite a feat. The traditional elements are easy to define — the engine-turned dial, the fluted case, the Breguet hands, that winding rotor. All details that speak directly to Breguet’s past. What makes the watch feel so modern is a little harder to define. There’s a few obvious tells, like the larger size and the use of silicon. And then there’s the harder to define bits, like the unconventional dial side movement and the modern looking (yet actually quite old school) peened finish on the bridges. Really though, it’s one of those whole-is-greater-than-the-sum-of-its-parts situations. Perhaps then, Breguet’s Tradition is like the best traditions — rooted in the past, yet flexible enough to move with modern times. Breguet Tradition 7097 and Breguet Tradition Dame Australian pricing Breguet Tradition 7097 in red gold, $42,000, Tradition Dame in red gold, $49,000 
Seiko’s Astron (the new GPS one, not the groundbreaking quartz one) is a pretty incredible piece of kit. Ostensibly, it tells the time, day, date and a second time zone. But the trick is in the method. The Astron, thanks to GPS technology, keeps track of time by talking to satellites — a quite cool party trick. Given its go-anywhere accuracy and automatic time zone adjustment, it makes sense that the Astron is billed as an adventure watch for the travelling set. And never has that been more apparent than with this watch. Don’t mind the ‘Solar Executive Sports Series’ name, this watch is, in fact, the most rough and tumble Astron yet. The incredible versatility of the solar 8X53 is matched by the super-hard titanium case (with rose gold tone in this case) and ceramic bezel. The rich, golden brown ceramic bezel, by the way, is inlaid with UTC times on the top and IATA codes on the side, all of which, in a neat trick, have some impressive luminous powers. The shape of the case is more streamlined, too, a more rugged sporty look that downplays the still hefty 46.7mm diameter and 14.5mm height. Best of all, though,…
The story in a second: So thin you can see through it. If you were to summarise Bulgari’s approach to design and modern-day watchmaking, the Octo would be the result. In less than a decade, the Italian manufacturer has turned a single striking case design into an entire collection, evolving with each new model, and breaking records left, right and centre. One of this year’s newest additions is the Octo Finissimo Skeleton Titanium Blue, and although it’s not exactly a record-breaker, it does not disappoint. The case What more can I say about the case of the Octo Finissimo that we haven’t already said? It’s thin (boy, is it thin!), but slenderness is not the only thing; it’s about the entire package. This Skeleton’s lines are sharp, gliding across its barely there profile like skates on ice. Only that ice is sandblasted titanium, and there’s no mixing of finishes to dazzle and distract; instead it’s all left to the case’s multiple facets and angles to impress – and impress they do. Here, the 40mm Octo case is also slightly thicker than the record-breaking Octo Finissimo Automatic – 5.37mm compared to 5.15mm … to put that in perspective, however, that’s less…
Watches inspired by military designs are a perennial favourite. Largely, that’s down to the fact that these watches generally possess an overarching purpose. These watches have been designed, first and foremost, as functional objects. The Longines Heritage Military, for example, is a no-frills whistle that tells the time, and tells it quickly, clearly and simply. Of course, that purity of purpose typically flows down to a purity of design, and the Heritage Military — with its clear railroad minute track and simple Arabic numerals, its large, easy to manipulate crown and decorative-yet-functional hands — is exemplary. However, that’s not to say that Longines hasn’t added some contemporary design flourish to their historically inspired piece. Look at the dial. It’s a near-perfect facsimile of a decades-old dial that bears the signs and the patina of a life well lived. However, this dial is brand new. It’s also unique. As a result of the production process, each pattern of flecks and marks on the dial is individual to the watch, which is pretty cool. Longines Heritage Military Australian pricing Longines Heritage Military, $2775
Over the last few years, Seiko has made a habit of releasing limited editions with exceptional enamel dials at very reasonable prices. First, there was the Moonlit Night, then the Shippo enamel, and now, the Urushi Byakudan-nuri. The vehicle for these delicate, incredible dials is the Presage collection. A classic round steel watch that marries dependability with dressability. But really, this 40.5mm case, and the 6R21 movement behind it are known quantities, and not what we’re here for. Honestly, we’re here for the dial. As is common with Seiko’s watches, especially the special, limited ones, there’s a story to this dial. It has been designed to evoke the look of the night sky just before dawn. This narrative goes a long way to explaining the unusual colour palette of the Byakudan-nuri. The base of the dial is made using the traditional Urushi technique we’ve seen on other limited edition Presage models. Here though, it’s jet black. The calendar subdials, crafted through the Byakudan-nuri technique, are in a deep, rich red, achieved with a careful sprinkling of fine metallic powder. Though the red is quite dark, it’s anything but dull, thanks to the way it plays in the light. This red…
Longines heritage reissues are — much like the designs they’re inspired by — the stuff of legend. And speaking of legends, you might notice that the dial design of the Skin Diver resembles that of the Legend, with distinctive hand sets and long hour and minute markers. That’s because both watches trace their origin back to the Nautilus Skin Diver, Longines’ first dive watch. But while the Legend has an internal bezel, the bezel here is very much your traditional bezel, and black to boot. This, combined with the creamy-toned printing and rich, almost pebbly dial texture (offered on either a tropic style rubber or Milanese mesh) adds up to a watch that more than lives up to its heritage. Also, you’ll be happy to note: no date window. Longines Skin Diver Watch Australian pricing Longines Skin Diver Watch, $3425
To talk about this watch, we need to talk about Daniel Roth. Daniel Roth is an immensely talented watchmaker, making his name at Audemars Piguet and honing his skills at Breguet until he left in 1987. After that exceptional grounding, Daniel Roth decided to found his own, eponymous brand, which launched in 1989. With a focus on high-end, complicated offerings, heavy on tourbillons, repeaters and chimes and, of course, that unique squared-off oval shape. And while the Daniel Roth brand — like so many small watchmakers — didn’t make it in the long run, the name lives on. The brand — along with those distinctive cases — was acquired by Bulgari in 2000. Which brings us to this particular Bulgari Daniel Roth. With a large 45mm rose gold case, in the aforementioned elliptical shape, this watch has undeniable presence on the wrist. It’s chunky and masculine, but also unusual and possessing distinctive charms. Charms that extend beyond the refined lines of the case. While most watches make do with conventional hands, this Papillon is not most watches. It’s a jump hour with wandering minutes display — the tip of either of those central lozenge-shaped indicators points to the current minute. It’s…
I’ve got to say, for a watch born in the middle of the ’90s, the Omega Seamaster 300M Diver is looking pretty glorious. Partially that’s down to the fresh facelift and major internal upgrade, but it goes deeper than that. The SMP — as it’s known — knows what it is, and revels in that identity. And nowhere is that dual nature of flashy meets functionality more evident than this steel and yellow gold beauty. The flashy elements are immediately apparent — it’s hard to miss that striking black and gold bezel, the golden crown and (re-worked) helium escape valve. And then there’s the glossy black dial, laser-engraved with the (in?)famous wave pattern, and it seems like every other surface has been buffed to a high gleam. But there’s substance under the showiness. Starting with the rubber strap — a (very comfortable) choice that immediately signals that this watch means business, and not the suit-and-tie kind. And then the overall build quality is legendary; the dial is super legible and fully loaded with lume. Flip the watch over and, behind the scalloped Naiad lock, the top-notch Calibre 8800 is proudly on display. Because while the oh-so-slightly upsized case size and…