HANDS-ON: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm in gold — Italian industrialist chic
An important part of the process when reviewing a watch is imagining who the watch is for. Sometimes this perceived wearer can be quite general: “someone who wants a nice dive watch”. Or it can be a little more specific: “a 35-year-old frequent flyer who wants to make a subtle statement with their wrist”. In the case of these 38mm gold Laureatos my imagined wearer is a little more specific. Gianni Agnelli. If you’re not familiar with Mr Agnelli, you really should be. He was one of the most stylish men of the 20th century, a politician, industrialist and international playboy. In watch circles he’s also (in)famous for wearing his watch over his shirt cuff. So, how does all this relate to the Girard-Perregaux Laureato? Well, aside from the Italian link (the Laureato was originally designed by an Italian architect in 1975), if I had to describe this watch in two words it would be Retro-industrialist chic (I’m claiming the compound word as one). It’s really a watch that’s defined by lifestyle rather than function, an object of beauty that speaks to business, purpose and an extravagant life punctuated by long lunches. It’s also a dressier, more sartorially suited option…
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“Girls just want watches that look pretty.” So we are told. Of course, most of us want things that look good (and, ah, don’t men want good-looking stuff too?). But “just” pretty? Please. The watch industry has patronised us with that old cliché for too long. For many of us girls, a fashion watch is anathema – and a diamond bezel is not the be-all and end-all either. Bung a bit of glitter on a boring watch and it’s still a boring watch. Assuming that an interest in mechanical timepieces means that we’ll settle for tool watches with zero femininity completely misses the point, too. Rather than saying pretty OR technical, Hublot has done both. First, it chose its well-proven mechanical calibre, the self-winding HUB1110, for a series of Big Bang watches (thus safely ticking one of the ‘technical’ boxes). Then it harnessed the most advanced materials research into developing the “pretty” part – the case, dial and strap – transforming what are normally considered fashion fabrics into high-tech substances that answer all the demands of fine watchmaking. A very clever play on “fashion watch” perceptions, no? So, while the tech is there – and this materials technology is seriously…
One of the most impressive collections we saw at SIHH 2017 was that of Girard-Perregaux, dominated by the sporty, ’70s-inspired Laureato collection. And while most of the Laureatos walked a pretty established product path — a top-end tourbillon, 42 and 38mm models in a few dials and case materials, as well as smaller, diamond-decked women’s models — one model stood out, both in terms of style and construction. I’m talking, of course, about the watch in the above picture, a 42mm two-tone Laureato in a bi-metallic case. And while two-tone is hardly unusual (especially this year, when it’s launched into legit ‘trend’ status), you don’t see too many watches in a mix of precious pink gold and technical titanium. Which, looking at this piece, is a little bit of a surprise, because, boy, does the combo work. Both metals have been given the brushed treatment, resulting in a slightly more muted, matt look that especially suits the grey titanium. There’s a version with fully integrated two-tone bracelet … that is, as they say, a strong look, but there’s also this croc-equipped option, which is nice and dressy. Of course this Laureato isn’t just a pretty case. It’s also got a dial to…
A few weeks ago I had the distinct honour and pleasure of spending some time with Montblanc (and 50 or so other watch journalists) in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Now, prior to booking flights I had a decidedly foggy understanding of where Jackson Hole was and what it was all about (not coastal, mountains). And while that exceptionally broad understanding is factually correct, it doesn’t accurately encapsulate the awesome beauty of the place. Jackson Hole is a small town, on the outskirts of the Grand Teton National Park, surrounded by mountains. One American colleague told me that it’s the sort of place politicians mean when they talk about “Real America”. Confusingly, a local also wryly remarked that it’s a tough place to find a place to live because the billionaires are pushing out the millionaires. And did I mention it’s beautiful? So what does Jackson Hole have to do with Montblanc? It’s a good question, but one that will have to wait until SIHH 2018 to be answered. But given that I was making the long trek over, I thought it a great opportunity to test-drive a Montblanc watch for a while. It would have been rude not to. I opted…
For some, turning 30 is a daunting occasion. It’s an age when we’re expected to be mature and take life seriously. And just getting yourself up and down from a chair now takes effort and involves a distinctly loud groan. It’s not all bad though. And in the case of the new TAG Heuer Link it can actually be a very good thing. First released in 1987, the Link began life as the TAG Heuer S/EL (short for Sports Elegance) and throughout the ’90s was one of their most successful models. In recent years, however, the Link was overshadowed by the other big players in the TAG Heuer catalogue. At least that was until last year when it was relaunched in the women’s collection, and this year it’s the men’s turn. Now measuring 41mm, the case of the updated Link treads the curved line between a round and cushion shape. With satin brushing and polished edges creating contrast and emphasising its silhouette, particularly on the two-piece bezel. The smooth lines mean that this Link is elegant and dressy, but with subtle crown protectors and 100m of water resistance, it harkens back to the sportiness of the 1987 original. While the…
Story in a second: It’s one of the best modern sports chronographs of 2017. ’Nuff said. In two short years, TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer 01 has gone from a single statement model to a fully fledged sub-collection, with something for everyone. Having said that, this stealthy, slightly smaller 43mm in matt black ceramic might just be the most versatile model yet. The case There are two noteworthy features of the case of the CAR2090: its size and material. First of all, the size. As I’ve said before, the 43mm Heuer 01 models are much friendlier to more wrists than the (frankly, pretty massive) 45mm versions. 43mm is still a large, modern sports case size that doesn’t — especially when coupled with the height required by the integrated chrono movement — lack anything in the wrist appeal department. Secondly, the material. The matt black ceramic case construction (with a stainless steel core and caseback for water resistance) doesn’t just look mean, it also means your watch is nigh unscratchable, and substantially lighter than a comparable steel model — two factors that greatly improve the day-to-day wearability of this piece. It’ll look good for longer, and won’t weigh you down at the end…
In recent years, Panerai has changed tack — steering a little away from the purely hard-edged, masculine image that has characterised the brand’s more recent history with models like the Luminor Due and this flyback chronograph, made to celebrate Panerai’s partnership with the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge, or PCYC. For a brand that was born on the wrists of Italian frogmen, the journey topside to the decks of classic yachts, and all the glamour associated with that, is a short and natural evolution, as the calm, confident and slightly retro-inspired Luminor 1950 cased watch proves. With its rich ivory-coloured dial, crisp black text and nautical tachymeter scale, the PCYC Flyback is as welcome as a fresh sea breeze on a balmy summer’s day. The good looks don’t end there though, with dot and hash hour markers — a departure from Panerai’s characteristic Arabic numerals — in warm vintage tones keeping the dial uncluttered, and the gold and blued steel hands adding a flash of colour. The slightly distressed Ponte Vecchio calf strap is a perfect stylistic match. The caseback is solid, showing a broadside view of a classic yacht, which is something of a mixed blessing. This solid caseback is…
In the weeks leading up to Baselworld 2017, the speculation as to what Rolex would be releasing was rife. With astute watch collectors quickly pointing out that 2017 marked 50 years of the Rolex Sea-Dweller, the community braced for an anniversary edition. We all know — and love — that Rolex celebrates iconic anniversaries, and more often than not it’s a sophisticated touch here and there. Think back to the Rolex Submariner (ref 16610LV), where we saw a green bezel, or the more recent Rolex Day-Date 40 (60th anniversary Edition), with a stunning green dial. For all that, they’re instantly recognisable: Rolex are subtle — one of their core strengths is to design and manufacture timeless wristwatches. A Submariner from 1970 looks just as good as a current production Submariner, and that’s because Rolex doesn’t do rapid change. They move to the beat of their own drum. So, when the doors to the fair opened, attendees (myself included) swarmed to the Rolex booth, fighting to get the first glimpse of exactly what this would be. Glistening in the window sat the brand new 50th Anniversary Sea-Dweller. Since that initial exciting glimpse, I’ve managed to spend a bit more time with the new Sea-Dweller reference…
Raymond Weil, one of the few independent, family-owned operations in the Swiss watch industry, marked their 40th birthday this year. And while I’m sure there was cake, and perhaps even champagne, the best part of the celebrations has to be the Calibre RW1212. This automatic movement, with distinctive open-heart escapement, is unique to Raymond Weil, designed in-house and made by Sellita. RW1212 marks the first time Raymond Weil have dipped their toes into the deep (and often murky) waters of in-house movements, and it’s a testament to the brand that they’ve been transparent about the movement’s design, development and construction, and they’ve made a mechanism that meets their needs, in that it’s a solid, robust automatic, with a touch of drama, thanks to the design of the escapement, which has been positioned in such a way to allow an uninterrupted view from the dial-side, suspended via a diamond-polished double bridge, a look that evokes (very consciously, I suspect) the placement of a tourbillon. While closer inspection (of the watch, or the price tag) reveals that the RW1212 isn’t a tourbillon, the effect is somewhat the same — allowing the user to see the beating heart of their watch. It’s a…
The story in a second: Disco might be dead, but the ’70s live on in Oris’ latest re-edition. A decade for experimentation, the ’70s was an era of bold shapes and brightly coloured designs (men’s turtleneck ponchos, anyone?). While many of these experiments should never be repeated (men’s turtleneck ponchos), there are a few special exceptions. One of which is the Oris Chronoris. Released in 1970, it was the brand’s first foray into the world of motorsport and their very first chronograph. Since then, Oris has built a strong stable of auto-themed watches. Maintaining connections to the sport of motor-racing with partnerships including Audi Sport and Williams’ F1 teams. Oris first paid tribute to the Chronoris in 2005, in the shape of a retro-themed chronograph, and once again have honoured the one that started it all, with the release of the Oris Chronoris Date. The case The case of the Chronoris Date takes most of its design cues from its retro predecessor. Barrel-shaped with cut-out 19mm lugs, its rounded curves are fully polished, except for on top where a radially brushed finish creates a dazzling sunburst effect. This effect also draws the eyes towards the wonderfully double-domed AR-coated sapphire crystal, which not only…