VIDEO: The purity of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Snowflake
One of Grand Seiko’s most in-demand and instantly identifiable watches is the Snowflake, AKA the SBGA211. For many, this pure, and deceptively simple, watch epitomises the high-end Japanese maker, and it certainly exhibits all the Grand Seiko hallmarks: exceptional casework, precise finishing techniques, and those glimmering hands and hour markers. And then, of course, there’s the dial — textured like a field of fresh snow, that can, at a distance, be passed off as a simple white. Look closer though and you’ll find yourself sucked into the richness and serenity of its lustrous beauty. And then there’s the impossibly smooth sweep of that hand-blued second hand, a tell-tale marker of the Spring Drive movement whirring behind the scenes. Spring Drive, unique to Seiko, is an innovative hybrid of quartz accuracy and mechanical perpetuity that is as intriguing and ingenious as the titular dial, if not more so. Add to this the watch’s supreme wearability and it’s easy to see why it’s still such a popular option. Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA211 ‘Snowflake’ Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA211, titanium, $8400
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First things first, what is sapphire crystal? Essentially, it’s the same stuff used to make a watch ‘glass’ and display casebacks, formed by crystallising aluminium oxide at very high temperatures to create an extremely hard material. Roughly speaking, it mimics what Earth has taken 400 million or so years to do, to form natural sapphire gemstones. For sapphire-cased watches, the middle, bezel and back are milled from solid blocks of the material. Because it’s almost as hard and scratch-resistant as diamond (9 on the Mohs scale, as opposed to 10 for diamond), the task of milling it into the complex shapes required is much more easily said than done. Indeed, sapphire crystal can be cut only by diamond. Harnessing the knowledge it gained from developing a milling technique for Magic Gold (another hugely challenging material), Hublot works with a Swiss specialist as part of an exclusive partnership to develop the sapphire material. Speaking at Baselworld 2016, Ricardo Guadalupe, Hublot’s CEO, said that the rationale for using the material was to show off its in-house calibres – and that would also determine the choice of models that would be given sapphire cases. 1. 2016 MP-05 LaFerrari After 18 months of development…
Now, if you’ve watched my review of the Tudor S&G you’ll know that I’m #team2tone all the way, but the thing is, I don’t *really* know how to wear it. I mean, I think I’d be OK in more formal settings — just pair it with a suit and away you go, but in every other part of my life — not so sure. I’ve got two-tone anxiety, and I’m sure I’m not the only one. Because, much as we’re all aware that the mix of precious and plain metals is, once again, en vogue, our awareness of it, and how to wear it, is still stuck in the 1980s. So I thought it was time to bring in the big guns, in the form of David Meagher. David, aside from being editor of The Australian’s WISH magazine, is a bastion of good taste and a sartorial safe harbour. He’s also of a vintage to have experienced the two-tone trend last time it was cool, so he’s in a unique position to tell us how it was done and how it should be done. Now David, I don’t think it’s too forward of me to suggest that you might have…
Around this time of the year I’m prone to a bit of the old ‘best watch’ game – running through my favourite releases in a particular brand or category. And typically it’s a pretty clear-cut decision for me. Not so with Tudor’s 2017 collection. I’ve found myself going back and forth over two watches pretty much since I first saw them: the Black Bay Steel and the Black Bay S&G. In a way though my indecision makes perfect sense, as these two models are perhaps the two most extreme expressions of the Black Bay line. The Steel is the epitome of Black Bay as rugged tool watch, a space that the brand is very comfortable in. But the S&G is something else entirely. Luxurious, dressy and – depending on who’s wearing it – a little showy. And while it’s not a side of the Black Bay we’re used to seeing, it’s a look that suits the versatile diver exceptionally well. I suspect this isn’t the last time we’ll be seeing precious metals in the Black Bay family …
The Rolex Cellini range could be described as ‘the Rolex you wear when you don’t want to (be seen to) wear a Rolex’. It is bereft of practically all of the Rolex design codes that make their watches among the easiest in the game to spot at 20 paces. There is no iconic Oyster or Jubilee bracelet to give it away – the Cellini has so far only been released on leather bands – and nor is there a brazenly fluted bezel in glittering precious metal to seal the deal. While the latter forms a part of the watch, it is toned down and offset by a domed bezel. Thanks to its tapered lugs, this Date version, like the Cellini Time, offers one of the thinnest Rolex profiles in the whole catalogue, though its diminutive wrist weight and heft is well and truly compensated for by the machine-engraved guilloché dial which is quite the showstopper in the metal. This model is also one of very few Rolex models in their history to feature an off-centre date dial. The overall effect is of a restrained elegance that simply doesn’t demand that you know its name, or who it’s related to. That’s not to say the Cellini can’t be…
The story in a second: Forget bling: thin is in, and Bulgari are king. The Octo Finissimo Automatic is the latest in Bulgari’s trio of record-breaking ultra-thin watches, and perhaps the greatest. We have a look at the watch’s barely-there beauty, and find out why it’s such a standout. The case Any discussion of the Octo Finissimo Automatic has to start with some specs. And for the case, the key figure is 5.15mm. That’s slight, no matter how you slice it, but it manages to avoid feeling frail on the wrist. The level of finishing is very high, and you can see how anything superfluous has been pared back or – in the example of the caseback – removed completely. For me, though, the real surprise about this case wasn’t how thin it was, it’s the weight. On the excellent bracelet (more on that later), the Octo Finissimo clocks in at only 73 grams, thanks to the titanium construction. It’s so light that I did an almost comical double take the first time I picked it up. But the benefit of the titanium case extends beyond its lightness; it’s exceptionally thermo-conductive, meaning it very quickly matches your body temperature, making…
One of the secrets of the Omega Aqua Terra’s success is its versatile charm. In its dark-dialled and gold incarnations it’s super dressed-up, but put it on a leather or rubber strap and it becomes a much more casual proposition. This is a watch that could pull tuxedo duty or go with board shorts (and the 150 metres of water resistance means it’s safe to take swimming) with equal ease. But no matter how you wear it, you won’t find it boring. The flash of the polished hands and applied indices ensure that, as does the shimmering, patterned dial. And then, of course, there are its more functional charms. It’s now a Master Chronometer-certified watch, which means that it is tough and accurate, and, in the larger size, has a nifty quick jump hour that’s super useful for travellers. Flexible style and feature-packed? That’s why we think the Omega Aqua Terra is one of the best contenders for ‘only watch’ status we’ve seen this year.
One of the great paradoxes of the Swiss watch industry is that, broadly speaking, it is locked into a cycle that demands shiny new watch releases (often referred to as novelties) on a yearly basis. Pretty much without exception, these are all watches that are often intended to last a generation or three. What this means is that many watch brands continually offer new case materials, dial colours or combinations of complications to tempt us to change our wristwear. It’s a strong-willed watch lover indeed who can resist this siren call, but really, the latest is not always the greatest. Sometimes it’s a better play to go for timeless, and stylish. Which is where Rado’s Coupole Classic comes in; it is a sensibly sized dress watch with an aesthetic that neatly marries Swiss tradition with the chic industrial design Rado is often associated with. As a result the Coupole Classic is a solid automatic option for everyday duties. It’s simple, but with enough detail in the waffle-style dial, blued hands and power reserve to keep it interesting on the wrist. Rado Coupole Classic Australian pricing Rado Coupole Classic, steel on leather, $2225
When we think Rado, we tend not to think chunky, ’70s-inspired dive watch. We’re much more likely to lean towards chic ceramic minimalism, or perhaps this year’s surprise hit, the Captain Cook. Which is why the HyperChrome 1616 is such a standout, though the impressive 46mm case helps too. Of course, Rado are a brand with a high-tech rep to protect, so don’t expect them to use anything as simple as steel for the case material. Instead they’ve crafted two takes on the theme – one in black ceramic, the other in hardened titanium. The ceramic version is the more modern of the two, lightweight and ultra-hard, thanks to the case, painstakingly crafted from a mix of black ceramic feedstock and polymer binder that’s then injection moulded and sintered at about 1450 degrees celsius. It is then finally given the mix of brushed and polished finishes on the 1616 case. The hardened titanium version is no less impressive (and far more retro in appearance). It has been treated so that it’s four times harder than steel. Add to these hi-tech cases the fact that you get a modified ETA that’s good for 80 hours, and the competitive pricing, and there’s a lot to…