MY 6 MONTHS WITH: The TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 (ref. CAW211P)
When I go to the pinpoint the exact moment in time I decided that I wanted a particular watch, there’s almost always a common denominator: it’s seeing it on someone else’s wrist. My Monaco story starts this way. My business partner in Time+Tide is a pretty big Heuer and TAG Heuer fan. He is the founder of Calibre 11 – the home of TAG Heuer and vintage Heuer collectors – and has, at times, been among the most pre-eminent Heuer collectors in the world. It goes without saying that his wrist has been a showcase for pretty much every style of watch the brand has to offer over the years – vintage, modern, attainable, completely out of the question, you name it, DC has shown up at some point with it on. I remember the day he first wore the 2015 Monaco distinctly. I asked to take a closer look, and snapped off a couple of wrist shots. Before I knew it was, I was re-reading Felix’s review and paying closer attention to the photos. How had I never noticed that powder blue dial at the time? The mirrored horizontal indices? The fat slab of sapphire crystal that warped the light…
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The story in a second It’s one of the hottest watches of 2017, and here’s why… For years, the Sky-Dweller has been one of the most interesting and least understood modern Rolexes. It’s one of the most complicated watches in their lineup, as a luxury traveller’s watch, and is the patrician elder brother of the tool-like GMT-Master II. This niche proposition, along with its solid gold offering, always made it something of an outsider Rolex. Until now. The case In some ways the case of the Sky-Dweller remains identical to the version released in 2012, but viewed a different way, the changes to the big 42mm case represent the single biggest shift to the model, which has seen it rocket to the top of many a fan’s list. It’s all about the material. For the first five years of its life, the Sky-Dweller existed only in precious metals: white, yellow or Everose gold. Not only did this place the watch into a premium price bracket, but it was also every inch the solid gold Rolex — unavoidably so with that large, fluted bezel. But, as Baselworld 2017 rolled around and the Rolesor Sky-Dwellers were unveiled, the proposition suddenly changed. Fifty…
Earlier this week we showed you Franck Muller’s Skeleton Tourbillon, a sculptural wonder that let the movement shine. Today we’ve got a different take on the tourbillon: the Jumping Hours Tourbillon, which is just as stunning, even if it’s a little less revealing to the casual observer. The first thing you might notice about this watch (OK, the second, after you’ve finished gazing in wonder at the hand-engraved 60-second tourbillon) is that it appears to be missing a hand. The sinewy blued steel minutes are there, but what about the hour? And for that matter, where are the hour markers? The exploded Arabic numerals on the stamped sunray dial display the minutes. Well, the hours are there, displayed in the aperture between Franck Muller and Geneve on the dial. As far as they go, jump hour complications are fairly uncommon, perhaps because the unconventional time display tends to be polarising. I do think Franck Muller missed an opportunity to make their jump hour stand out — the square white disc with plain printed numbers is a dissonant note. I would have liked more, especially on a watch at this level. Turn the heavy platinum case over and you’re met with…
The story in a second It’s all in the bezel. One of the more interesting watches to come across my desk in recent months is this Oris ProPilot Worldtimer. Now, at first glance you might wonder why, as it looks every inch a regular ProPilot, albeit one with a second time zone on display. But this sturdy pilot’s watch has a trick up its proverbial sleeve – an innovative and awesomely user-friendly time zone adjustment method. Add this novel feature to Oris’ already proven robust build quality and versatile style and the ProPilot Worldtimer is an automatic finalist in the ‘Best dual-timer of 2017’ awards. The case First thing’s first. The case. This particular Big Crown definitely lives up to the ‘big’ moniker, coming in at a substantial 44.7mm across and sitting roughly 12mm high. Getting the watch wet isn’t too much of a concern, thanks to the grippy screw-down crown and 100 metres of water resistance. The style of the case follows the familiar form of the ProPilot; simple, sturdy, and with the distinctive coin-edged bezel with polished top ring. But this bezel isn’t just for show. In an ingenious bit of engineering, a simple twist of this bi-directional…
I don’t want to get all KPI on you, but image selection is something that I spend a lot of my time working on. Of the dozens of shots of any given watch that one of our photographers take, only a handful make the final cut. That’s not because the shots are out of focus or poorly lit, but because we strive to hit the right balance between written and visual information, and both elements are complementary and essential. Typically on this sort of review, I’ll end up running with four or five images. Today I’ve we’re at 12, more than double what we’d usually publish. Not just because they’re stunning, drool-worthy pictures (they are), but because they tell a story about the watch, showing the form and quality in a way that a written description of the specifications cannot quite compete with. But that’s not to say I won’t try. Just in case the tell-tale Curvex shape and the name on the dial didn’t give it away, you’re looking at Franck Muller’s Cintrée Curvex Skeleton Tourbillon, a mighty 39.5mm wide by 55.3mm long white gold case, polished to a mirror like finish, with the thick, domed sapphire case seamlessly integrated…
For years, Ulysse Nardin has been something of an insider’s brand with a solid heritage and catalogue boasting some legitimately impressive horology (we’re looking at you, Freak). Their strongest line has, in my opinion, always been the historically inspired Marine collection, based on the brand’s historic marine chronometers which date back to the middle of the 19th century. These days the Marine watches are less about navigation and more about a mix of everyday classicism with a sporty edge. Dressy Roman numerals paired with integrated lugs and rubber straps. The recently released Marine Torpilleur evolves this concept further and is a watch designed to appeal to a broader audience. Like the torpedo boats it was named after, the Torpilleur packs a hefty punch in a slim, deceptively simple package. The case is significantly simplified, paired with a very handsome dial and powered by the brand’s own silicone-packed calibre. All this offered at quite a competitive price point. It’s a watch intended to get UN’s name out there, and, combined with headline grabbers like the Marine Regatta and the InnoVision 2, the Torpilleur is well placed to play a key role in the rise of Ulysse Nardin. Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer…
The story in a second Got a blacked-out 488 rolling in and looking for the perfect watch to match? Read on. Hublot are masters of both the high-level partnership and the limited edition. Both of these traits are very much to the fore in their freshest round of Ferrari-themed Big Bangs. I recently had the pleasure of spending some time with this not at all under-the-radar carbon version. The case When the Big Bang was first introduced way back in 2005, it was simultaneously outré and appealing. These days the large and (dare we say) iconic modern sports watch is very much an accepted part of the landscape. But familiarity hasn’t lessened the potency of the Big Bang as, like many great designs, it’s a surprisingly malleable canvas, where almost every single element can be changed, while still managing to be clearly recognisable from 10 paces. These days the large and (dare we say) iconic modern sports watch is very much an accepted part of the landscape. But familiarity hasn’t lessened the potency of the Big Bang. Key to this versatility is the case. The modular construction and Hublot’s own dedication to their Art of Fusion design approach means that the…
Last month I celebrated a particularly significant anniversary. I’ve spent 12 happy months with the Rolex Submariner ref. 116610LV – better known as ‘The Hulk’. Here’s my on-the-wrist review that’s been a year in the making. Swiping the debit card on this purchase wasn’t an easy decision. Being someone constantly surrounded by watches, I was more than aware of the endless list of great options within this price bracket. Now, don’t get me wrong, there were some very big temptations along the way, but a Rolex was something I’d been working towards for a little while, and just over a year ago, the time was right. Wearability has always been my number one criteria when purchasing a watch, so for me, a Submariner felt like the right choice. It ticked all the usual boxes in terms of functionality – but there was a specific reference that I’d been heavily flirting with. As much as I love the traditional black bezel Submariner, when put side-by-side with the green, it felt a little too safe for my liking. The green Sub, on the other hand, is one of the most ‘daring’ designs released by Rolex in their current collection, and of course…
I can honestly think of few watch/car matches more perfect than that of Hublot and Ferrari. The two occupy similar positions in their respective ecosystems: big, bold, and yes, even brash — but also instantly recognisable and intensely coveted. But beyond that, the carmaker and watchmaker share a fearless approach to design and performance, and a tendency to do things their own way. Take LaFerrari for example — both the watch and the car. Although, not every collaboration between these two passion invoking brands is quite as intense as LaFerrari, as this latest limited edition Big Bang Unico demonstrates. At first glance, this watch is very, very clearly a Hublot. But on further inspection the automotive touches become clear. There are the dial details – from the obvious horse to the slightly more subtle speedo-esque minutes counter – and Ferrari yellow date wheel. And then there are the design touches that speak more clearly to the principles and values of Ferrari’s approach to design; the ergonomics of the crown shroud, the shape of the chronograph pushers, and the recessed bezel screws. What this means is that the latest generation of the Big Bang Ferrari is the most finely evolved, full of unique…