HANDS-ON: The Aussie-only Seiko Prospex SRPD50K
Seiko is a brand with a lot of love in Australia — their watches, especially the divers, are incredibly popular, due in equal parts to their good looks, virtual indestructibility and high ratio of bang vis-à-vis buck. So, we’ve got no doubt that this Australia-only limited edition — a two-tone twist on the classic turtle — will be a hit. So, say hello to the Seiko Prospex SRPD50K. If you’re reading this, the fundamentals of the watch are likely familiar to you. A big, cushion-y case (which resembles the silhouette of a turtle — hence the name) that clocks in at 45mm across, 47.7mm top to bottom and 13.4mm tall. The movement is the solid caliber 4R36, and Hardlex crystal. The cosmetics, though, are completely new. The case has been treated with a dark grey/anthracite coating, which is a nice alternative to the straight-up matt black. It’s dark, but it’s still metallic. Add to this the yellow gold crown, bezel and applied dial details and you’ve got a watch that has all the wrist drama you could want. There’s also some high contrast on the dial — the slightly grained black dial is nicely offset by the soft white luminous…
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In case you’re not familiar with Seiko’s Prospex line, it’s a venerable series of ‘professional specification’ watches that are made with a purpose. It’s a long-running series full of iconic divers with colourful names like the Turtle and the Tuna Can. Baselworld 2019 bore witness to what is perhaps the boldest iteration of the collection yet — the Prospex LX collection. The same sense of purpose is there, but so too is a level of finish that’s uncommon in the Seiko line. Prospex LX is top-tier stuff, with Spring Drive movements and case finishing that we’re far more used to seeing under the Grand Seiko name. With this higher level of execution comes a higher price tag. One that makes sense given the overall quality, but one that Seiko fans are unaccustomed to nonetheless. We already looked at the collection as a whole at Basel, but today we want to drill down into the three blacked-out versions … Seiko Prospex LX SNR031 The ‘safest’ of the trio is this Marine Master-esque diver. The bulk and blackness of the watch is offset by a clean dial layout and a water-ready silicon strap. RRP $8500 AUD Seiko Prospex LX SNR027 In contrast to…
At first glance, the pairing of a GPS-enabled, solar-powered watch, with a direct lineage to an 800-year-old family tradition in one of Japan’s most culturally important crafts might seem odd, but that’s precisely what we’re looking at with this high-end Casio MRG-G2000GA ‘Gassan’. Before we get to the sword side of things, let’s have a look at the timekeeping side of the equation. The case of this imposing watch is made from titanium, but not just any titanium. We’re talking about recrystallised titanium, which gives the metal a unique surface finish, reminiscent of the tempering of a Japanese blade. Moreover, it’s been treated with an arc ion plating (AIP) process to give it a vivid grape colour which is funky, fresh and unusual. The unorthodox materials don’t end on the case — the bezel is made from Cobarion, a cobalt chrome alloy that’s twice as hard as steel and possesses a platinum-like lustre. I didn’t test the first statement, but the metal has certainly been given the platinum treatment with a sophisticated mix of radial brushing and clean mirror polishing. The dial is a little more de rigueur for a high-end Casio offering, with plenty of digital bells and whistles,…
Fun fact: TAG Heuer is the largest Swiss producer of tourbillons. It’s a statement that if made a decade ago would have emitted oh-so-Swiss snickers of disbelief in the rarefied halls of Baselworld or SIHH. Tourbillons, according to the narrative, are the epitome of hand-crafting — tiny components that take precious hours to intricately assemble. But here we are in 2019, and TAG Heuer has upset the applecart with its CNC-produced tourbillon, which offers the same visceral, whirling coolness at a price that — while still clocking in at five figures — is, what market analysts would say, aggressively competitive. And while the Heuer 02T tourbillon has been around for a while now, the newest darling is the very impressive Nanograph, which serves as a heroic standard-bearer for TAG Heuer’s carbon alternative to silicon technology. Watch on to check out our picks of the current collection. TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Pairing black steel and matt ceramic, this TAG Heuer tourbillon offers all the hi-tech you could want, with a pleasingly warm brown calf strap. RRP $22,050 TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Carbon If you want even less weight and more futuristic-ness, how about a Heuer 02T clad in…
Earlier this year, Andrew spent some (very) quality time in New Zealand with Louis Vuitton and some of their most serious watchmaking. If you haven’t seen the video, it’s definitely worth a look (as is this one), but we reckon this watch, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon ‘Poinçon de Genève’ is worth a second look, as our photographer Jason Reekie has worked wonders with his macro lens. If you’re in the mood for a seriously high-end statement piece, this should be of interest to you. The 42.5mm case is in Louis Vuitton’s classic ‘tambour’ shape — inspired by a hand drum, with an inwardly curving case. But the case is playing second fiddle here to the elaborate, open-worked movement. And what a movement. It’s Geneva Seal certified, so you know it’s quality (and made within the Canton of Geneva to boot). The design is also charming — the functional elements are arranged vertically in a series of overlapping circles, with the tourbillon at six garnering the most attention. And even though it’s solid gold and very serious, you can’t help but be captured by the light and airy atmosphere of this lovely Louis Vuitton. 
IWC is famous for their pilot’s watches, and rightfully so — they’re instantly recognisable and a genuinely iconic modern design. And while the design born in the middle of last century was for a very specific purpose — as a navigational tool for aviators — the passing of time has seen the collection grow and evolve. Today, IWC’s pilot’s family consists of four distinct sub-collections: Spitfire, the Saint Exupéry watches, the Classics, and the boldly modern Top Gun selection. Over the next four weeks we’re going to explore each of these groups in detail, kicking off with Top Gun. Top Gun, named for the Naval Air Station school in Miramar, is where IWC’s pilot’s watches look to the future. The collection is heavy on chronographs, with dark, modern aesthetics, and in more high-tech materials than elsewhere in the line-up. Andrew visited the brand’s Melbourne boutique to inspect three models in more detail. IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceratanium This 44mm watch made a big impression when it was released at SIHH this year. And not just because the double chronograph is a famous complication for IWC, but because of the novel use of Ceratanium, an alloy of titanium and…
A few weeks ago we were treated to an evening with Piaget, and their thintastic Altiplano collection. And while we had a bunch of watches in our office, and our excellent photographer Jason Reekie on hand, it would have been a shame not to make the most of it. We’ve already seen what the mighty meteorite dial looks like in crisp focus under good lights, and now it’s time for two others — the 40mm Altiplano Date and the Altiplano Chronograph. Piaget Altiplano Chronograph Flyback Dual Time OK, so if you’re anything like me, a chronograph isn’t the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Piaget, or indeed of ultra-thin watches. But here we are. And here is Piaget’s take on what’s typically a très sporty watch. First seen in 2015, the Altiplano Chronograph — here in white gold — is impressive, not just for its delicate proportions (41mm wide and only 8.24mm thin for the fully cased watch; the movement is a mere 4.65mm), but also for the fact that this is a new, from-the-ground-up movement, and a manually wound column wheel flyback with a GMT at that. Technique aside, this thing is gorgeous. Clean and stylish…
This is one of those watches that makes so much sense I’m amazed it didn’t exist until now. But before we dive into the details of the IWC Big Pilot Edition ‘Right-Hander’, let’s step back and have a quick recap on the Big Pilot. The Big Pilot is a watch with two distinct histories. The first iteration of this story was the original watch, made as a navigational tool for wartime use. In this context, size = clarity and reliability. The civilian story of the Big Pilot begins in 2002, with the reference 5002. IWC’s revival of their historic design was perfectly pitched for the times, as big watches were all the rage, but few had the presence of IWC’s 46mm aviator. Seventeen years on and the Big Pilot is a staple of IWC’s lineup, offered in many material, complication and dial configurations over the years. But never — until now — a right-handed version. Quick primer on right and left-handed watches. Watches are intended to be worn on the less dominant hand, which, for most people, is the left. Ergonomics and good design dictates that a watch worn on the left hand should have its crown on the right…
The story in a second: Ultra thin and out of this world, we have to be talking about the Piaget Altiplano Automatic 40mm with meteorite dial. Piaget’s Altiplano is a staple in the world of ultra-thin watches, with an elegance that matches its slenderness. This limited edition version dials (if you’ll pardon the pun) the elegance up to 11, with a unique meteorite dial that adds a level of flash and panache that’s hard for a ‘normal’ dial to match. We had the chance to have a closer look at our recent Piaget event, and these are our thoughts … The case This should come as no surprise — this watch is thin. How thin, I hear you all ask, simultaneously? Well, how does 6.5mm sound? I don’t know about you, but it certainly sounds slender to me. This degree of thinness is largely down to the fact that the dial and movement don’t take up much space — more on that later — but the design of the 40mm rose gold case is simple, with straight lines and a broad polished bezel that only goes to accentuate the lack of height. The dial The simple case also serves to accentuate the dial,…
Normally in these hands-on reviews I leave the sticky question of the price until the end. But this time around I’m putting it front and centre. This Montblanc Heritage Automatic has an Australian RRP of $3410. And for that amount of coin, you get a lot of watch. The steel case is well-sized — 40mm across and 11.65mm high, with 20mm lugs packing a really nice grey croc strap with a slight sfumato effect. The lines of this case err, as the heritage name would suggest, towards the more classic in style. Fairly simple construction, a mirror polish, and pleasing, swooping lugs. The movement is a third-party number, reliable, but nothing too exciting, which is why the brand has opted to hide it away behind a nicely engraved picture of the Montblanc, née Minerva, facility in Villeret. It’s worth noting that the caseback is about as close as this watch got to that building, which is strictly the domain of their top-tier pieces — this watch was assembled in the brand’s Le Locle facility. The dial, though, that’s something else. The salmon colour is on-trend for 2019, and very much the right choice for this three-handed heritage offering. Really, though,…