With their softly rounded square cases and inner round opening, cushion-shaped watches are a sure way to stylishly stand out from the crowd. Masculine and refined, here are 6 high-end cushion shaped watches released in 2017, for those who want to look original, yet stylish.
Innovation in the field of escapements and oscillators is the new frontier in technological breakthrough of mechanical watches, as evidenced by revolutionary concepts by Ulysse Nardin, Girard-Perregaux, Parmigiani Fleurier or more recently the Zenith Defy Lab and its mind-blowing oscillator. Among these, Dominique Renaud presented an impressive concept dubbed DR01, the first of twelve just before Baselworld 2016. His idea is to manufacture 12 watches (each to be commissioned, personalized and priced at CHF 1,000,000), 12 evolutions of the concept to reach a fully developed version. It is now time for the horologist to unveil the progress made with this development and introduce the first watch in this series of twelve. Monochrome reports from Geneva where Dominique Renaud is exhibiting his project and the first watch in the series of 12.
As we told you in a recent article, next year will be the 25th anniversary of a modern icon, a watch that simply created the trend for bold sports-luxury watches: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. In 1993, the brand impressed (or shocked) the industry with this watch, and to celebrate this, AP has some commemorative pieces to show. The first one looks at the past, as being a re-edition of the first ROO. The second one, which goes under our loupe today, looks at the future. Aggressive, impressive, complex, architectural… Here is the bold (to say the least) Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph 25th Anniversary.
Last year, for their first attendance at the Geneva watch fair (a.k.a. the SIHH), Ulysse Nardin surprised guests and collectors with an impressive collection, which achieved to merge the classical style of the brand, some refined crafting techniques and very decent prices. One of the best examples of this strategy was the Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon, a steel watch with white enamel dial and very nice movement, priced at just (relatively speaking) CHF 28,000 – making it one of the most accessible tourbillons on the market. As a preview of the SIHH 2018, Ulysse Nardin has a new version of this Marine Tourbillon, this time with their classic Guilloche/Grand Feu Enamel blue Dial.
It seems that Vacheron Constantin’s current favorite complication might well be the triple calendar (or full calendar, or complete calendar… all refer to the same complication). Brought back at center stage with the stunning Historiques Triple Calendrier 1942 in steel and its gold sibling, the Triple Calendrier 1948, two superbly vintage-inspired pieces, the elegant calendar display is now integrated into a more modern – and highly precious – watch, as a preview of the SIHH 2018. Please meet the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar “Excellence Platine“.
Ferdinand Berthoud strips down its spectacular Chronomètre FB1. After the recently introduced platinum edition, it’s now the movement that evolves. Indeed, sapphire bridges now offer an unimpeded view on its killer inner workings, and this mechanical beauty is now housed in a titanium case (with 2 different dials available). Meet the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4, available in two different versions, which shows quite some evolutions compared to the previous models of the brand.
Creating an object without a single mention of its provenance on the dial and that, however, remains recognizable is far, far from easy. Yet, Schaffhausen-based brand H. Moser & Cie., with their pure/nude watches, achieved this – at least, among an audience of well-educated collectors. Pushing the idea even further are the Concept watches of the brand: no text, no indexes, no Swiss-Made mention… Actually, nothing! A dial and its hands, that’s all. This idea is now applied to another watch in the collection, the most complex of them all, with Endeavour Tourbillon Concept.
Back in 2014, right after Jérôme Lambert was appointed CEO of the brand (who is now COO of almost all the Maisons at Richemont Group), Montblanc introduced the Heritage collection – a line-up of classical, elegant watches with a clear vintage appeal, in both the design and the use of complications. There was some Minerva inspiration, yet with the usual “affordability” the brand is known for. Alongside the below-10k perpetual calendar (a watch that sounded like a blast at that time) was another watch, the Montblanc Heritage Spirit Pulsograph. And here, not just a Minerva-inspiration but true Minerva watchmaking skills. Why talking about this watch today? Look at the photos, you’ll understand. A throwback to this watch is for the pleasure only…
After the record-breaker that was the unique Patek Philippe 5016a for Only Watch 2015, sold for an astonishing CHF 7.3 Million – at that time, before the Steel Patek 1518 and Paul Newman’s Paul Newman, the most expensive wristwatch ever – today was another potential record-watch for sale, the unique titanium, Minute Repeater, Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar Patek Philippe 5208T made for Only Watch 2017. The hammer talked a few minutes ago: CHF 6.2 Million. Not a record itself, but still again an impressive amount.
Last month, we introduced you to the stunning new MB&F Legacy Machine Split-Escapement. A successor of sorts to the highly popular Legacy Machine 1, which was officially retired by MB&F earlier this year after six years of faithful service, the Legacy Machine SE serves as yet another reminder that even when Geneva’s top Creative Lab is trying to be conservative, they’re still full of surprises. Luckily for us, MB&F were exhibiting at SalonQP last week, giving us the opportunity to spend a bit of hands-on time with this incredible new timepiece.