Category: High-end Watches

The devil is in the details… of the dial (case study with the Patek Philippe 5496P-015)

You see, here at Monochrome-Watches, we always praise the complexity of movements, we always emphasize on the amount of work done by watchmakers to assemble complications or to achieve a perfectly polished bevel, to finish an internal angle or to obtain black polishing – we even did a technical guide about it. We also look at “métiers d’art” – engraving, enameling, micro-painting. However, there’s one thing we tend to neglect and that is actually much more important than we think: the dial. Yes, a dial can be very simple – most of them are actually painted plates with numerals and track printed. However, some dials can be proper demonstrations of art, showing microscopic elements finished with extreme care. People say that the devil is in the details… In the case of the Patek Philippe 5496P-015, the devil is clearly in the dial.

8 years ago

Roger Dubuis adds colored stones to the Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon

What do we know about Roger Dubuis? Well, to make it short, Roger Dubuis is a proper manufacture of Haute Horlogerie, creating extremely refined skeleton movements, and being the only brand to have its entire production stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva (and that alone must already give an indication of the beauty of the production…). Roger Dubuis is also a combination of complex mechanisms with a unique design, bold, sporty and clearly recognizable. Well, all of that can be seen in the latest addition to the catalogue, the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon, which now receive colored stones incrusted in its rubber bezel.

8 years ago

Review – The A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Moon Phase, or the Essence of German Symmetry

When A. Lange & Söhne is mentioned, it is easy to dream. It is easy to dream because of names like Datograph, Zeitwerk or Double-Split. These watches can be found in so many watch collectors’ wish-list (and not only Lange aficionados), and for extremely good reasons, as clearly, they are all watchmaking pinnacles, grail watches, dream-machines… and they are all rather inaccessible. So the main question that I’ll have today, with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Moon Phase, is simple: is there something special about A. Lange & Söhne in general and will this “reasonable offer” give me the same pleasure? No answer yet, you’ll have to wait a few lines of text…

8 years ago

Introducing – Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton Tourbillon – A lightweight skeleton tourbillon for a reasonable price

Ulysse Nardin… quite a manufacture, with bold designs, inspired by the world of Marine. But that’s for the visual side. Technically, this brand has so much to offer. They are from the most innovative of them all. They introduced silicon in watchmaking, they created complex watches with extremely simple mechanisms (thanks to master watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin) but they also have traditional and complex timepieces. Today, not only they come with a new skeleton tourbillon, widely opened and lightweight-oriented, but they do it with a quite interesting piece tag (to say the least). Here is the Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton Tourbillon.

8 years ago

Hands-on – Richard Mille RM 11-03 Automatic Flyback Chronograph, the facelift of an icon

The Richard Mille RM 011 is a watch that perfectly sums up the Richard Mille spirit. We know this watch for almost 10 years and we’ve seen it in dozens of editions – some linked to certain events (Le Mans Classic), made for special friends of the brand (Felipe Masse, Roberto Mancini…) and manufactured in all possible colors or materials (red quartz, ceramic, carbon fiber, titanium, gold…). This watch could certainly be the most popular RM watch – and is probably the brand’s best seller too. After so many variations, it was time for this icon to get some fresh air, and after a strong facelift, this watch becomes the Richard Mille RM 11-03 Automatic Flyback Chronograph.

8 years ago

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Timezone – a Personal Story pt. 2

A few weeks ago we published the first part of my personal story with A. Lange & Söhne. To me, this brand has played an important role in the past one-and-a-half decade of watch collecting, learning about mechanical watches and making Monochrome into what it is today. After that memorable weekend back in 2007, there was another memorable weekend. Another weekend that was important for me, and for Monochrome, and again the Lange 1 Timezone had a prominent role.

8 years ago

Introducing – URWERK EMC TimeHunter X-Ray, the skeletonized version

The URWERK EMC TimeHunter is not just an impressive face. Like always with this independent manufacture, the design is… different, bold, aggressive, outrageous or futuristic (choose the desired adjectives). The EMC TimeHunter is far more than that, it is simply unique and revolutionary. Based on the self-adjustment of the movement so dear to the brand, this watch added the self-monitring capacity, in a very technical way. This highly-innovative watch receives a facelift and now comes in a skeletonized version, the URWERK EMC TimeHunter X-Ray.

8 years ago

Introducing the revamped Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar (new dial, improved movement, ref. 5000T)

We have always said: there are huge analogies between the luxury car industry and the watchmaking industry whether we are talking about marketing, sponsorships, typology of collectors. In terms of products, we can also find similarities. It is extremely common for cars now to have their middle-life facelift, and this happens more and more in watches. Not entirely a new model, however slightly different from the previous version, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar goes through this process, with an improved movement (Calibre 1142QP) and a redesigned dial, becoming ref. 5000T.

8 years ago

My Summer with the Ressence Type 5 (and does it really have zero reflection under water)

If you remember, back in December 2015, when Benoît Mintiens (the founder of Ressence) showed me the Ressence Type 5 for the first time, I actually ended my article with a wish to have this watch as my summer watch. The team of Ressence heard my wish and granted it so here we are, with my review of this great, sort of unique watch, which I’ve been wearing for an entire summer. Usually I tend to be rather technical and factual in my reviews, but here I’m going to be slightly more focused on the wearability and on the feelings, trying to position myself as the owner of this watch. Here are my thoughts after my summer with the Ressence Type 5 on the wrist.

8 years ago

Introducing Balthazar, the new hyper-cool Robot Clock of MB&F x L’Epée

If you want me to be frank (and I’m usually rather direct), how useless are those MB&F Clocks… Who, in 2016, needs a table clock? By being purely factual, no one! Yes, and that’s why, together with their unique designs, MB&F Clocks are so cool. While the concept of the 19th century clock laid on a marble fireplace is, to a large audience, completely boring, the idea of those totally irrational, quite childish and purely mechanical clocks by MB&F and L’Epee makes a lot of sense, just to fight our way-too-rational daily context. Following Melchior, the Robot-Clock launched in 2015, here is its big brother Balthazar. But beware… If the front looks robotic, there is also a dark side to Balthazar, as there is in all of us.

8 years ago