Women’s Watch Wednesday – Hands-On with the Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Sleeping Beauty, Designed by Michael Koh

For an American watch lover and veteran journalist in the field, I have a particular affinity for German watch brand Moritz Grossmann. With roots dating back to 1854, the Glashütte-based brand was started by Moritz Grossmann, was one of those fine brands expropriated and all-but-lost during World War II, and was re-established in the Saxony region following the reunification of Germany just a short time ago by German watchmaker Christine Hutter. 

7 years ago

Pre-SIHH 2018 – Hands-On with the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Edition 150 Years

As part of the new “150 Years” collection, which includes already two superb watches, the re-edition of the Pallweber and the Portugieser Tourbillon Constant Force, IWC treats us with an unprecedented combination of complications, integrated inside the iconic Portugieser case. Using the classical nautical look of this model with the addition of the new lacquered dials, here is the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Edition 150 Years, introduced as a Pre-SIHH 2018 novelty, and part of the 27 special watches that the brand will unveil at the 2018 Geneva watch fair.

7 years ago

Pre-SIHH 2018 – Hands-On with the IWC Portugieser Constant Force Tourbillon Edition 150 years

IWC is turning 150 next year. To mark the occasion, the Schaffhausen-based manufacturer is set to unveil a special Jubilee collection at SIHH, comprising 27 limited–edition watches from different collections. Among these and a bit prior to the Geneva-Watch-Fair, the new Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” is the first IWC to combine a constant-force tourbillon with a single moon phase display that only needs to be adjusted by 1 day after 577.5 years. Here’s an early hands-on look at this beauty housing an impressive and highly-complex movement.

7 years ago

Review – The Patek Philippe 5320g Perpetual Calendar, and The Inspirations Behind This Vintage-Inspired Piece

At Baselworld this year, Patek Philippe introduced again a surprising watch, a piece with a unique look and a clear vintage inspiration – without mentioning a case to die for. For a few years now, Patek has accustomed us with a certain creativity, with watches that go out of the brand’s comfort zone (see for instance the controversial Calatrava Pilot 5524 or the Annual Calendar 5960A in steel). The 5320g Perpetual Calendar is amongst these special watches, even if here, it prompted a unanimously positive response. Today, we take a closer look at this vintage/military-inspired piece and also to the different watches that inspired its creation.

7 years ago

Introducing – Atelier de Chronométrie AdC #5 – 1940s Style and Mechanics Brought Back in Hand-Made Timepieces

If there’s one thing I love about my job is to discover new watch brands. I’m always stunned by the level of creativity infused by independent watchmakers, from the Sci-Fi creations of Urwerk or the ultra-classic propositions of Laurent Ferrier (who can do nice things together…) One brand we recently discovered at MONOCHROME cumulates quite some intriguing specificities. It isn’t Swiss, it makes things in an ultra-traditional way, whether for the design or the manufacturing process, and it’s all about one-off pieces. This brand is Atelier de Chronométrie and their latest creation is the AdC #5, which brings back to present times the superb 1940s design and mechanics

7 years ago

Dominique Renaud’s Innovative Concept DR01 Is Completed, Working… And We Go Hands-On With It

Innovation in the field of escapements and oscillators is the new frontier in technological breakthrough of mechanical watches, as evidenced by revolutionary concepts by Ulysse Nardin, Girard-Perregaux, Parmigiani Fleurier or more recently the Zenith Defy Lab and its mind-blowing oscillator. Among these, Dominique Renaud presented an impressive concept dubbed DR01, the first of twelve just before Baselworld 2016. His idea is to manufacture 12 watches (each to be commissioned, personalized and priced at CHF 1,000,000), 12 evolutions of the concept to reach a fully developed version. It is now time for the horologist to unveil the progress made with this development and introduce the first watch in this series of twelve. Monochrome reports from Geneva where Dominique Renaud is exhibiting his project and the first watch in the series of 12.

7 years ago

Hands-On – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph 25th Anniversary

As we told you in a recent article, next year will be the 25th anniversary of a modern icon, a watch that simply created the trend for bold sports-luxury watches: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. In 1993, the brand impressed (or shocked) the industry with this watch, and to celebrate this, AP has some commemorative pieces to show. The first one looks at the past, as being a re-edition of the first ROO. The second one, which goes under our loupe today, looks at the future. Aggressive, impressive, complex, architectural… Here is the bold (to say the least) Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph 25th Anniversary.

7 years ago

Pre-SIHH 2018 – Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon Now with Guilloche/Enamel Dial

Last year, for their first attendance at the Geneva watch fair (a.k.a. the SIHH), Ulysse Nardin surprised guests and collectors with an impressive collection, which achieved to merge the classical style of the brand, some refined crafting techniques and very decent prices. One of the best examples of this strategy was the Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon, a steel watch with white enamel dial and very nice movement, priced at just (relatively speaking) CHF 28,000 – making it one of the most accessible tourbillons on the market. As a preview of the SIHH 2018, Ulysse Nardin has a new version of this Marine Tourbillon, this time with their classic Guilloche/Grand Feu Enamel blue Dial.

7 years ago

Pre-SIHH 2018 – Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar “Excellence Platine”

It seems that Vacheron Constantin’s current favorite complication might well be the triple calendar (or full calendar, or complete calendar… all refer to the same complication). Brought back at center stage with the stunning Historiques Triple Calendrier 1942 in steel and its gold sibling, the Triple Calendrier 1948, two superbly vintage-inspired pieces, the elegant calendar display is now integrated into a more modern – and highly precious – watch, as a preview of the SIHH 2018. Please meet the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar “Excellence Platine“.

7 years ago