In-Depth – Omega and the PloProf Research Programme – Innovation in Professional Dive watches (incl. Pioneering use of 904L Steel for Watches)

By the early 1940s, Emile Gagnan and Jacques-Yves Cousteau’s Aqualung – the first commercially successful self-contained underwater breathing apparatus (a.k.a Scuba)-  had become a worldwide phenomenon. Along with the growing popularity of recreational diving, the needs of military and professional divers underscored the paramount importance of reliable sub-aquatic instruments. Developed in 1953, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is often regarded as the archetype of the dive watch: a robust, highly legible watch, water-resistant to great depths (91 meters, in this instance) and equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel to time dives.

5 years ago

Video – The Seamaster Chronicles – Part 1, The History of the Omega Seamaster

Last year, we introduced one of our largest projects ever, the Speedmaster Chronicles. 5 videos with 5 men, including James Ragan (the man who turned the Speedmaster into the Moonwatch), Omega’s CEO, a well-known auctioneer, Mr. Speedy Tuesday and an anonymous collector, who shed their light on one of the most iconic watches ever created, the Omega Speedmaster a.k.a. Moonwatch. Today we’re starting with another big video project, namely “The Seamaster Chronicles” – and you probably guessed it… we will have an in-depth look at Omega’s diving icon, the Seamaster.

5 years ago

Celebrating 100 Years Of The Iconic Cartier Tank – Part 2, The Important Early Models

Last week, in celebration of the 100th anniversary of the Cartier Tank, we brought you part.1 of our in-depth look at this modern-day icon. Our focus was on the Tank Normale, the very first Tank ever created, which made its debut in 1917 (or 1919, depending on who you ask). This early model would lay the foundation for what has gone on to become one of the most recognisable watch designs ever, leading to numerous variations and of course homages from other brands. It also serves as a testament to the idea that well-executed, simple designs can stand the test of time. A bit of luck and a few celebrity endorsements here and there certainly don’t hurt either! What has perhaps been most fascinating about the Tank over the years, however, is its incredible versatility. This was particularly evident in the early Tank models, i.e. those made in the 1920’s and 1930’s, which we will be looking at today. Each is very different in its own way, and yet each is unmistakably a Cartier Tank.

7 years ago

History of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Part 3 – Major Modern Models

Today we conclude our three-part series on the Patek Philippe Calatrava with a look at the present-day models currently available from the brand. After reading Part. 1 (focussing on the very first model of the collection, the reference 96) and Part. 2 (the most important vintage models), I’m sure you will agree that the humble Calatrava is one of the most iconic dress watches of all time and has played a significant role in shaping the entire dress watch category. Incredibly, its underlying design has remained largely unchanged since its introduction in 1932, some 85 years ago. While it’s true we’ve seen many variations over the years, the fundamentals have always remained the same, which is great news for vintage enthusiasts and new buyers alike.

7 years ago

INSIGHT: The 100 year history of the Cartier Tank, and the people who made it famous

For any designer, regardless of product type, the holy grail is to create an object that so perfectly balances form and function and so elegantly expresses an aesthetic that it will not only last for many generations but will forever look as modern as it did when it left the drawing board. Among those rare products are Le Corbusier’s Chaise LC4, Mies van der Rohe’s Barcelona chair and Cartier’s Tank wristwatch. Louis Cartier’s practical, no-frills design has not only become one of the most successful and enduring watches of all time, it has accepted tweaks, updates and experiments without ever losing its integrity. And it is loved equally by men and women – for the not-so-simple reason that it’s perfectly suited to both. The beginning It’s hard to think of a less likely time than 1917 – three years into the havoc of World War I – for launching an object that would become a symbol of 20th-century luxe et chic. Before the war, Cartier’s fame had grown, thanks to its boldly modern jewellery designs and the marketing instincts of Louis-Joseph Cartier. In 1904, he designed a wrist-worn watch for his friend, Brazilian aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont, to enable him to…

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7 years ago

History of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Part 2 – Important Models Through Time

Yesterday, we brought you Part. 1 of our History of the Patek Philippe Calatrava, looking back at where it all began: the Reference 96. That original 1932 model has become a design icon, not to mention the basis on which every other Calatrava reference has been modelled. Emphasising the Bauhaus concept of form follows function, the original Ref. 96 provided the blueprint for the ultimate dress watch, a blueprint that been replicated many, many times by both Patek Philippe and other brands. Today, we’re taking a closer look at some of the notable Calatrava models that followed the Ref. 96, models that themselves have gone on to become extremely collectible. This is not an exhaustive list by any means, just the ones we thought to be the most emblematic, so please free to add any significant models you personally love in the comments below, and the reasons why they are important to you.

7 years ago

History of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Part 1 – The Reference 96, The Blueprint

Patek Philippe is a brand that needs little to no introduction. In the watch world, it is known for making high quality, highly sought after timepieces of exceptional complexity. In the real world, it is known as one of the most prestigious brands on the planet, an instant indicator of wealth, stature and, of course, good taste. Pioneers of numerous technical advances, including the first perpetual calendar, the first annual calendar and, surprisingly, the first solid-state quartz watch with no moving parts, Patek Philippe has always been at the forefront of innovation. Yet, it is one of its most understated collections that has proven to be the most consistently successful commercially; the humble Patek Philippe Calatrava, or the essence of the prestigious dress watch. Today, we start with part 1 of this history of the Patek Philippe Calatrava by looking at the first of them all, the 1932 Reference 96.

7 years ago

Celebrating 100 Years Of The Iconic Cartier Tank – Part 1, The First One, The 1917 Tank Normale

If you were to ask your fellow watch-lovers what they thought was the ultimate, chic dress watch for men (or women), I would be confident in saying that the Cartier Tank – in one of its many variations – would feature very high on the list. Versatile, distinctive and instantly recognisable on the wrist, the Tank is, without doubt, one of the most unconventionally iconic watch designs of all time. So much so, in fact, that it’s hard to believe the ageless Tank turns 100 this year. Today, we’re looking back to where it all began, to celebrate not only everything the Tank has achieved for Cartier but also to try and understand what goes into making an icon.

7 years ago

The History of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas – The Other 1970s Icon

In the 1970s, the post-war global economic boom came to an end. The new, accurate quartz watches gained popularity and plunged the Swiss watch industry in a deep crisis. As the inexpensive electronic watches began to flood the market, the competition from foreign manufacturers created a major economic turmoil, and with it, the need for Swiss brands to reinvent themselves, making necessary disruptive changes. And that includes the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, a watch born in that exact period.

8 years ago