Big watches for small wrists – 10 watches that wear smaller than their case diameters Part 1
Yesterday, we published an explainer on why lug to lug measurement is a better fit-telling metric than case diameter. Today, we’re continuing the theme, with yet more examples, this time with a focus on big watches that are suitable for smaller wrists. At the end of the day there is no substitute for trying on a watch in the metal, but making a trip to your local AD is not always an option. Lug to lug measurement, in my opinion, is the best way to guesstimate if a watch will flatter your wrist when buying a watch online – and this list proves it beyond doubt. All you need to do from here is learn the measurements of your best-fitting watch or any watch you have previously tried on that can serve as a benchmark for your wrist. As an example, I know anything over 50mm is unlikely to suit my wrist (which is why I opted for a Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight over the GMT as much as I love that Pepsi bezel). Let’s explore 10 watches with compact lug to lug measurements in proportion to their case diameter. You may be surprised at some of these numbers……
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Whenever we look at a watch’s specifications online, we generally find the usual suspects – case diameter and thickness, depth rating, type of crystal, number of jewels in the movement and so on. But this information omits perhaps the most important detail; the ‘lug to lug’ measurement. Although commonly discussed within the enthusiast community, very rarely are the lug to lug measurements of a watch listed within the provided specifications from the brands. What is lug to lug? Zach, slow down buddy, what exactly is lug to lug? For the uninitiated, the lug to lug measurement of a watch is the measurement in millimeters from the top most extremity of the case lugs to the bottom. Not to be confused with lug width, which is a measurement between two lugs on the same side of the case, and which are crucial for determining strap width. Case study #1 – When lug to lug helps a watch wear smaller DOXA SUB 300 (42mm x 45mm) The recent re-release of the SUB 300 is a great example of a professionally sized watch that is capable of flattering any wrist. With DOXA’s Flying Saucer-like profile, this sleek and superb diver is a great…
It might be a coincidence, or it might be provenance. But what was once a supplier of professional tool watches for the masses has slowly but surely become the undisputed king that wears the crown among luxury brands. Rolex dominates auction catalogues, while holding and appreciating in value for the lucky owners, and is only readily available for most on the grey market – with commensurate premiums and markups attached. While the financially fortunate are able to succour to these higher prices, and in the process skip the enigma that is the Rolex “wait list”, most everyday consumers are left in a vexed position if they want to buy any of the current collection. It’s simply not an option, without a long and established relationship with your local AD that is. So, the burning question: are there any bargains left in the Rolex catalogue? And are they actually available? Let’s take a look at four candidates. Rolex Datejust – smooth bezel, Oyster bracelet configuration Rolex Datejust models are a staple within the Rolex catalogue, with ladies models supposedly racking up the most sales for the brand each year – take that, patriarchy! Bringing it back to the subject at hand,…
Whether you’re a history buff, or just have a big budget for your costume parties, owning a historic timepiece can be a truly special experience. To identify with such an antiquated time period doesn’t just fulfil a niche curiosity in the old, but it connects us directly to a time of great innovation and exploration — aspects of watchmaking that still separate the great masters of horology to this day. As we begin the 2020s, 100 years since the decade that saw the wristwatch soar in popularity, we are celebrating by taking a look at some of the best watches of the 1920s that sum up that era, both new and antique. Rolex Oyster As quintessential as the mighty Submariner is today, its spirit is undoubtedly passed down from its parent — the original Rolex Oyster. Though similar technology had been implemented with pocket watches, Rolex were the first to use a hermetically sealed case and screw-down crown in a wristwatch in the late 1920s. Knowing that marketing was just as important as innovating, Rolex strapped an Oyster to the wrist of Mercedes Gleitze, the first British woman to swim the English Channel. What happened next is the stuff of…
This has been a bountiful year for the horologically inclined, and full of surprises. We have gone shopping with the virtual Time+Tide gold credit card, and found what we think might be five of the best watches under $3kUSD in 2020. It is an eclectic selection, from established microbrands to tough divers and a flyweight re-edition from Bulgari. The choices are diverse, if not easy to make. A fool might suggest to double your budget and take two home, but play your cards right and your budget might stretch further than you think. Grand Seiko SBGP005 Yes, the first watch here has got a quartz movement, and I’m very happy to admit it is also my debut as a quartz fan, as a Grand Seiko quartz movement is something very special. But what we notice first is, of course, the Japanese mastery of case finishing and dial details. The term “Luxury Quartz”, coined by Nick Kenyon in our story on the SBGP005 here, might still be contradictory to some, but is spot-on for this vision in dark blue and steel that punches way above its weight. The case is the classic strong-sided design we know well, giving us that…
This year has been a big one for Longines — for a couple of reasons. They have continued down the purist pathway of vintage reissues through their Heritage collection, as well as continuing to build their other enthusiast-favourite families such as the Record and HydroConquest collections. But the biggest news from Longines in 2020 was the launch of the Spirit collection, an event that certainly doesn’t happen every year at the Saint-Imier based manufacture. For Longines, the Spirit collection represents the meeting of past and future for the first thorough and meaningful way, blending their important history as instrument suppliers to the pioneers of aviation with more contemporary design cues and modern watchmaking technology. Longines HydroConquest Green The HydroConquest collection is Longines’ approach to a no-nonsense, robustly built and affordable dive watch. We’ve seen it expressed in a range of forms, from on a steel bracelet to a full black ceramic case, but this year we got the same approachable design and functionality in khaki green. This particular shade of muted, almost military, green has been increasingly popular in recent years, offering a quenching tonic against the never-ending procession of black and blue dive watches. At 41mm it is a feasible…
As Woody Allen famously said, “Money is better than poverty, if only for financial reasons.” More specifically, it can help you cultivate a magnificent watch collection. But what does the rich man do when he has scratched his horological itch until it’s red-raw? When he’s become jaded with the tedious rigmarole of snapping up grail watches and minute-repeater tourbillions? He starts to focus on his crazy watch accessories instead … The coffee table of horological dreams Pedro Costa is a Colombian designer who believes that size matters. He takes classic watch designs and scales them up into pieces of furniture. His range of coffee tables has included the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Hublot Big Bang Diamonds (which got the seal of approval from Jean-Claude Biver no less), Rolex Daytona and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore among others. Understandably, this supersizing process is extremely labour-intensive. Costa uses machinery to cut and mould the watch case, which contains a hybrid electro-mechanical movement by British clockmaker Sinclair Harding. The rest of the components are finished by hand, with each coffee table taking up to six months to complete. While these unique pieces have been commissioned by brands, Costa also accepts private commissions. The price…
Random acts of kindness are all very well. But at Time+Tide, we prefer our gestures of mind-blowing generosity to come in a horological format. From rock stars to comedians and actors to athletes, the moral of this story is simple: work hard, amass your fortune then spread the love by upgrading the wrists of mankind, one watch at a time. Bruno Mars plays Santa In 2019, Bruno Mars revealed on Instagram that he’d given his bandmates a Christmas present to remember. “My boys continue to show the world what time it is,” he wrote in the Instagram caption. “And a band that sings together blings together! #AudeMARS” Each of the eight members of his band, The Hooligans, received an Audemars Piguet Extra-Thin ‘Jumbo’ Royal Oak Ref. 15202 in gold. The full retail price for the watch at the time: US$55,400. As if that wasn’t a nice enough festive gesture, the watches were personalised with specially made custom boxes that read: “Audemars Piguet: Bruno Mars 24K Magic World Tour Edition”. Merry Christmas indeed. Why you really want to be friends with Jay-Z If you’re hip-hop’s first billionaire, standard party invites don’t cut the mustard. So when it came to inviting VIPs…
Many of us are re-evaluating our preferred size of watches, as the trend is ever-increasing (or should that be shrinking?) towards 36-40mm watches for men, with vintage vibes. In my case, it’s a matter of practicality. My wrist is on the slender side and I wear a shirt most days, so a 45mm wrist chunk is not going to work. The increasing range of options is a godsend for many of us. But have diminishing sizes hit all categories? Let’s say we’re looking for a tough, no-nonsense modern tool watch that can take a beating. In other words, a diver. The editor threw down the gauntlet with the seemingly unattainable goal of a full-on technical 300-metre ISO-spec diver being a key pre-requisite at a size of less than 40mm. The bonus round was to find five without vintage cues or cream-coloured lume. Modern in style, please. Surely this is an impossible quest? Seek and you shall find, I say. 1. Oris Aquis Date – the bestseller What can we say, the Aquis Date from Oris in Hölstein, Switzerland has been a resounding success, and has transformed into what is now a considerable range. The Aquis has, for many, made Oris…