James' 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection
It is with a palpable sense of frustration that I must start my 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection with a pretty serious caveat — I had started writing this list before the now infamous Rolex price hike of 2020. As a result, I will be utilising the Big Crown’s 2019 prices so as to keep within the, albeit fictional, budgetary constraints. Of course there are watches from other makes in my fantasy list but, thankfully, the other watches haven’t had their RRPs jacked … yet. So, without further ado, here is my dream line-up of timepieces from the final year of the decade: Rolex GMT-Master II Ref.126710BLNR Yes, OK, quit your groaning, I know it’s a very predictable choice … and I just don’t care. Rolex’s 2019 re-introduction of the much-loved BLNR or “Batman” GMT-Master II, now on a jubilee bracelet and sporting the Calibre 3285 movement, may not have been the most inspired release, but I still utterly adore it. The profound heritage of Rolex’s GMT-Master and GMT-Master II is undeniable, and this latest iteration continues to prove why the model line-up is the best GMT-equipped timepiece on the market … in my opinion. In fact, the only thing I…
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The pilot’s watch has become a staple of the horological community, specifically within the tool watch market. But, as we’ve seen with divers, the recent surge in their mainstream appeal and marketing has de-emphasised their professional utility. In response, we revisit the fundamentals of a practical pilot’s watch by highlighting five things to look for when buying from this category. Legibility While it should go without saying, a good pilot’s watch should enable the wearer to see the exact time down to the second with merely a glance at their wrist. There’s no place here for watches without minute markers, second hands, or featuring bizarre colour combinations. Legibility is also improved when the crystal has anti-reflective coating. Not only does this reduce the sun glare when trying to see the dial, it prevents inadvertent and distracting reflections being shone into your eyes by a co-pilot with low situational awareness. Accuracy The pilot’s watch needs to be accurate. It’s the law. Civil Aviation Order 20.18 lists aircraft equipment that must be carried in flight and includes the requirement for ‘an accurate timepiece indicating the time in hours, minutes and seconds’ that ‘may be carried on the pilot or navigator’. Military aviation…
Outfits change when the clock strikes five on Friday afternoon — suits, shirts, ties, leather shoes … all of it makes way for weekend savoir-faire. And if you’re the type of person who likes to get out amongst it at the weekend, whether it be hiking, mountain biking, 4WD … you name it, what you want attached to your wrist is a timepiece that not only looks the part, but can handle the rugged and demanding conditions. These three great military-spec watches perfectly meet that remit, and they’re also some of our favourites in the genre: HAMILTON KHAKI PILOT PIONEER MECHANICAL This Hamilton is one of the best examples of a vintage-inspired military watch we have seen in recent years. It draws inspiration from a watch produced in the 1970s for the British Ministry of Defence. Retaining the same shape as the original watch, the case flows seamlessly into the lugs, all confined within the original 36mm dimensions. The grained dial texture and creamy lume add additional flavour, making it a reissue with seldom paralleled historical accuracy. Ref No: H76419931 / Case size: 36mm / Case material: Steel / Movement: H-50 / Price: USD$770 BREMONT S301 The aesthetics of the Bremont…
It may surprise many reading this, but two out of the three Omega watches that really got the collective horological community talking in 2019 weren’t limited editions. In fact, the one limited edition watch that really struck a chord with enthusiasts, the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary, was just a gorgeous looking timepiece, regardless of whether or not it had a finite number of pieces made. Perhaps this signifies the future of Omega — a move away from limited edition timepieces in favour of aesthetically pleasing, technically impressive wristwatches. If the Swiss marque’s latest two releases, the Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition and the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321, are anything to go by, then the move away from limited editions could certainly be the case. Anyway, here were the three biggest Omega fan favourites from 2019: OMEGA SEAMASTER DIVER 300M OMEGA CO-AXIAL MASTER CHRONOMETER The Omega Seamaster is one of watchmaking’s undisputed classics. And while the main key for dive watches is legibility, white dials are not the common choice for this icon. Featuring the engraved ceramic dial and a high-contrast black bezel, the newest addition to the popular Diver collection has supreme legibility thanks to blackened hands indicating the time…
This weekend, I wore my Swatch Sistem51 Hodinkee Generation 1986 and went out in search of what other like-minded individuals had decided to attach to their wrist, and this is what I found out in the wild: Danny’s Tudor Black Bay GMT Danny has lusted after Rolex’s GMT-Master II Ref.126710BLRO ever since it was first unveiled at Baselworld 2018. There was just one problem with his desire for a “Pepsi” though … and I think we all know what it was. So, once it became apparent that his sugary sweet grail watch wasn’t going to be an option, Danny went in search of its Aspartame-equipped younger brother, the Tudor Black Bay GMT. Rather unfortunately, however, “Diet Pepsi”, as it’s come to be known, is an exceedingly hard timepiece to come by at your local AD as well. Luckily, though, while trawling Mr Zuckerberg’s increasingly popular marketplace one morning, Danny stumbled across a Tudor GMT that was just weeks old. What was even more amazing was that the chap who was selling it was just asking for the RRP, rather than trying to make a quick buck. Danny messaged the seller in earnest, and before the day was out, the Diet…
Where to begin with Seiko in 2019? The Japanese watchmaker has been on a veritable roll for quite some time now, but for the last year of the decade, they really delivered. Whether it be the new Prospex LX Line Diver taking home the prestigious award for best Diver’s watch at GPHG 2019, a completely new Seiko 5 collection or the accomplished, refreshed Astron, Seiko really did introduce some amazing new timepieces, and here are five of the best: SEIKO SNR037 The Seiko SNR037 represents an exciting step for the brand, as it is the first time the Spring Drive movement has been available in the Presage collection. In a faithful expression of the Presage collection DNA, this Spring Drive-powered watch is a dress piece through and through, replete with white enamel dial and inky black Arabic numerals. At 40mm in diameter, it is not a vintage-inspired reissue however, and is a truly contemporary watch with truly contemporary technology powering it. Ref No: SNR037 / Case size: 40mm / Case material: Steel / Movement: 5R65 / Price: $6400 SEIKO SNR035J The Seiko SNR035J is the stealth bomber of wristwatches, offering a hi-tech Spring Drive 5R66 movement, power reserve indicator…
It’s safe to say that 2019 was a good year for TAG Heuer, with the Swiss watchmaker celebrating 50 years of their iconically square Monaco wristwatch with four striking limited editions. It wasn’t just about the Monaco, however, as TAG also brought out some great new additions to their storied Carrera line-up as well as some elegant new ladies watches. We’d like to mention all the excellent new timepieces that were unveiled last year, but that would take quite some time. So, instead, here are our three favourite TAG Heuers of 2019: TAG HEUER MONACO 1989-1999 The third Monaco released to celebrate the model’s 50th anniversary honours the 1990s. A concrete-inspired dial (referencing the explosion of street culture during that decade) is brought to life by flashes of blue and red. The sub-dials, which had taken a voluptuous turn for the 1980s special edition, return to their boxier shape, but retain rounded corners. While significantly different from the original, and far grittier in appearance, this edition really brings the spirit of the 1969 right up to date. Ref No: CAW211X.FC6468 / Case size: 39mm / Case material: Steel / Movement: Calibre 11 / Price: $8600 TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE 16…
Selecting the best watches of 2019 with an unlimited budget is one thing. But those of us who aren’t hip-hop stars or oil tycoons have to comply with the tiresome reality of financial constraints. Which leads us to the challenge of selecting a $20K Fantasy Watch Collection from 2019. Here’s my hit list that sneaks in five watches just under the limit, to a total of AUD $19,785. Longines Heritage Classic The Longines Heritage Classic was one of the best watches of 2019, hands down. It felt like Longines listened to all of the complaints about recent heritage reissues, and made a watch that offered exactly what the enthusiast community wanted. It is a historically accurate reworking of a watch from the Longines archive, offers a 38.5mm case diameter, manual winding, and the best proportioned dial that we’ve seen in a while. If that isn’t enough, it’s priced at less than $3K, making it one of the best value watches released in 2019. Bravo Longines. Price: AUD $2900 Autodromo Group B Corsica Blue From the New York Fashion Week Streets to the inside of Fonda Mexican, pastels made a major play in 2019. Autodromo offered us a new design of…
2019 was an exciting year for Tudor, as the iconic Swiss watchmaker released several models that collectively surprised and even inspired the greater horological community. And while some of the novelties unveiled last year were contentious at the time, I think people’s attitudes have softened towards them and, more importantly, it’s just great to see a stalwart of the industry like Tudor push the boundaries of design and innovation. Here are the three Tudors that got everyone talking in 2019: TUDOR BLACK BAY P01 One of the most interesting and exciting timepieces released during 2019 was the Tudor P01. While not technically a remake, the P01 was originally designed in the 1960s and proposed to the US Navy as a potential partner for their military missions. As history records, the novel design, which uses a spring-loaded end-link to clamp the rotating bezel in place, was rejected, and the plans to produce it shelved. Thankfully this quaint curio has finally made it out of the archives for all to enjoy. Ref No: 70150 / Case size: 42mm / Case material: Steel / Movement: MT5612 / Price: $5450 TUDOR BLACK BAY CHRONO S&G The Black Bay Chrono gets the two-tone treatment with…
Horological disruptors Hublot were on a veritable roll last year, releasing a great many new and innovative timepieces that once again show why they are making waves in the watch world. Here are a few special wristwatches that caught our eye. HUBLOT BIG BANG UNICO TEAK ITALIA INDEPENDENT TITANIUM Limited to just 100 pieces, the Hublot Big Bang Unico Teak Italia Independent Titanium 45mm is every teak-freak’s fever dream. With a bezel made of a mixture of teak and carbon fibre (peak ‘art of fusion’ right here, folks), this is the perfect watch for all yacht owners looking to recall the deck of their Sunseeker with a flick of the wrist. Ref No: 411.NQ.5129.NR.ITI19 / Case size: 45mm / Case material: Titanium / Movement: HUB1242 / Price: $31,100 HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION FERRARI GT 3D CARBON 45MM And now for something completely different. Although Hublot is well known for pushing boundaries when it comes to case design and material science, it would be fair to say that the brand hasn’t really deviated from its classic case silhouette too much over the years. This year is different though. The Classic Fusion Ferrari GT 3D Carbon offers a more rounded bezel and case…