HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers limited edition, a bold statement already creating buzz
It was a Friday afternoon last November when I met Jan Edöcs, the CEO of Doxa S.A. He was here for the launch of the brand in Australia, and not only brought the full collection of watches from 2019, but he was also generous enough to share what they had in store for 2020, including early renders of the DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers, which as of now is available to pre-order here. ** Rumours are circulating that this watch is already sold out – for now, we can say that an Australian allocation remains for launch at midday AEST, though this will be updated once it is gone. Click on this text for updated sales information. ** While it’s always hard to get a true sense of a watch from renders, this one was different. It was carbon. It bore a striking yellow and black colour scheme. It was aggressively priced. And it had a certain logo on the dial. My instincts were overwhelmingly that it was a winner. From a brand whose core identity is based on the strength of their designs from the 1960s, this watch was a bold statement about DOXA’s 21st century…
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The thing about understated magnificence is that, at first glance, it’s often overlooked. And then it happens. The “why-Miss-Jones-without-your-glasses-you’re-beautiful” moment. Suddenly noticed, the full force of its charm slaps you sharply in the face, to leave you genuflecting with slack-jawed wonder and a slightly goofy smile. This is how I feel about the just-released Jaeger‑LeCoultre Master Control Calendar. Not that there’s some drudge-to-goddess transformation going on here. The appeal of this watch is hiding in plain sight (except for one very cool once-a-month party trick, about which, more later). JLC introduced its Master Control collection in 1992, naming them after the fact that they were the first to undergo the brand’s ‘1000 Hours Control’ certification. Essentially, this is like an SAS bootcamp for watches – a merciless system of internal tests that includes chronometric testing, fall resistance, climatic hazard resistance, waterproofing and accelerated aging. Every aspect of the movement, from power reserve to waterproofing, is tested, both before and after casing the watch. In comparison, it makes COSC certification seem almost recklessly negligent. This is a serious watch in other words, a point worth stressing because it wears its technical credibility lightly. At 40mm, the silvery-grey dial lifted with a…
Tragically, Covid-19 spells economic doom for many businesses. But while many industries are flat-lining or being forced into hasty reinventions, there are signs that the vintage watch industry will not just scrape through, but that some corners are in fact going from strength to strength. Cam Wolf in GQ explores how auction houses and watch dealers are currently doing record business when it comes to their vintage watch trade. Earlier this month, for example, two weeks in a row, Sothebys broke its record for most-expensive watch sold online. Wolf explores why vintage watches are booming in the face of the global pandemic. Some investors, he discovers, are building portfolios of classic vintage pieces – vintage Rolex, Royal Oaks etc – and using watches as a relatively safe haven to park their money while the stockmarket undergoes extreme volatility. “Vintage watches, not modern ones, seem to be untouchable for collectors,” writes Wolf. “What old watches have over their newer counterparts is that they’re already out of production—they’re inherently limited and therefore typically scarcer. The biggest watch enthusiasts believe that even in a time of economic turmoil, it will be these watches that save them.” Another factor, Wolf points out, is the…
Editor’s note: This week, we have something a little different for Micro Mondays. Instead of an interview, or review, it’s an open letter from Sydney-based Australian watchmaker, Nicholas Hacko. It was written for the second edition of NOW Magazine. We featured Nicholas Hacko by way of his kind offer to host a photo shoot starring Aldis Hodge at his watch manufacture in Sydney. The large feature was complemented with an open letter and a single page ad. But, reading this letter again now, it’s too good not to share. These are words of fire, that demonstrate the levels of drive – not to mention the levels of self-belief – you need to possess to have any kind of chance of showing “the Swiss that [we’re] capable of creating a wristwatch that is as good, if not better than the very best they have to offer.” And confidence underscores Nicholas Hacko’s offer, in every possible sense. Including, in quite extraordinary style, the offer and repair of watches within half a century of the purchase date. That’s just plain epic. So, yes, it is an ad of sorts – the actual advertisement that accompanied this letter is at the bottom of the post. But it’s one that…
A. Lange & Söhne don’t always do things by the book. The year is 2019. The demand for steel luxury sports watches is at an all-time high. And along comes the brand’s brand new Odysseus model. The polarising design (with naysayers focusing on the thicc steel bracelet as a flaw) took the established trope of water resistant, blue-dialled steel watches with an integrated bracelet. But in typically Lange fashion, it added nigh-on incomparable levels of engineering. The push buttons alone, hidden inside the gently sloping crown guard and used to advance the sophisticated day and date wheels, mark out the Odysseus technical territory. At 2020’s online edition of the Watches & Wonders trade show, the Glashütte giants unveiled a new version of the Odysseus. sporting a sleek grey dial and rubber or leather strap. However, in a sleight of hand that Audemars Piguet fans may find familiar, the biggest shock was that the case wasn’t steel, but 18k white gold. First things first. This edition is miles ahead of the steel Odysseus visually. Not that the older model is subpar by any stretch, but the stippled centre dial section, surrounded by concentric circles, tends to fall a bit flat when…
In a recent opinion piece, I extolled one of the central virtues of a modern luxury watch as being its viability for multi-generational use. But that is to presume the owner is going to be diligent with maintaining it. So, what’s the worst thing that can happen if you don’t service your watch? I asked some top-tier watchmakers that question and more around the subject of servicing. Colin de Tonnac is a French watchmaker who previously worked for Patek Philippe. He launched his own brand, Semper & Adhuc, in 2016. Eric Greenberg is a US-based watchmaker. He has extended his rather incredible accomplishments in the technology sector to watchmaking. On his Instagram account, he shares details about the unrivalled care he takes in servicing client’s timepieces (as well as the mistakes he uncovers from prior service efforts!). Aren’t modern watches built to run perfectly well beyond their recommended service intervals? CDT: Yes, a mechanical watch can in some cases work perfectly for 30 years without maintenance. However, it should be noted that these movements accumulate years and years of wear and tear and when a breakdown occurs, it will be all the more difficult to make a repair without changing…
Credit where credit is due. There may well be global turmoil the likes of which we’ve never seen before, but IWC has taken all in their stride and released a brace of new watches in 2020 that are set to stun. Though quietly, and with the kind of confidence that doesn’t require theatrics. It is, overall, a formidable display of power. And, in a fashion similar to what we’ve seen in previous years, the Schaffhausen outfit has singled out an entire model range for a complete makeover – 2020 is all about the Portugieser. Last year it was the watchmaker’s Pilot collection that got the special treatment. This year, it’s the brand’s iconic Portugieser collection – that CEO Chris Grainger-Herr refers to as the “heart” of IWC – that’s getting a complete refresh, including some brand-new models. There’s quite a bit to get through with this range review, so if you’re a fan of the International Watch Company, put the kettle on and put your feet up and enjoy. IWC Portugieser Chronograph Undoubtedly the collection’s most popular model, the Portugieser Chronograph is just one of those watches that has stood the test of time – IWC got the formula…
It was all a bit mad, really. Trying to film an hour-long video that recaps 30-ish new watches, with research consisting of poring over various screens to take in the details of each watch ahead of the shoot. Then wrangling assets, and ringing in friends on Zoom (thank you Sandra, Nick and Christoph!), and achieving a bucket list goal of throwing to Chris Farley. In that frenzy of activity, choosing highlights from the fair was harder than ever. But, who am I kidding, making lists in the midst of a fair – even a virtual one – is never easy. However, first impressions do count for something, and these are the early watches that I would pick out of all seen so far to handle in the metal at the first chance I get. Where the first video was long, this one is not – less than the average pop song, so get ready for a quick blast. To watch the full feature length video, go right ahead.
Like an addict itching for a fix, I recently listened to a football podcast where one of the hosts dropped a surprising confession. He admitted that, despite Covid-19 having stopped all games being played for six weeks, he wasn’t actually missing live football. Instead he’d taken the opportunity to re-watch old World Cups, enjoy classic matches from the past and pore over documentaries on some of the greatest players ever to grace the pitch. This experience, he insisted, had served to rekindle his love for the sport. In fact, he was now enjoying his football far more than when he was mainlining new goals on a weekly basis. Well, of course you are, his co-host replied. It’s like having to choose between listening to this week’s Top 40 singles or selecting tracks from a back catalogue of the greatest songs of all time. Frankly, there’s only ever going to be one winner. In essence, what he was saying was that just because something is brand new doesn’t make it automatically superior. This wisdom doesn’t just extend to re-familiarising yourself with the outlaw genius of Diego Maradona, either. It applies to watches, too. Imagine, for a second, that you won the…
When Richemont acquired Minerva to pair with Montblanc to fast-track legitimacy for their watchmaking division, some scoffed at the audacity. Taking a respected, historical watchmaker and giving their patents to a pen brand seemed like horological heresy at the time; however, Montblanc’s commitment to continuing Minerva’s legacy only grows more apparent with each subsequent year of new releases. Burgeoning respect from all, even the naysayers, is happening. For 2020’s online edition of Watches & Wonders, Montblanc have updated their collections to include 10 novel designs, ranging from subtle dial changes to bombastic antique re-imaginings. Heritage Collection While Montblanc’s 21st century merger with Minerva has given them access to a plethora of unique complications and designs, the Heritage Collection honours the more restrained timepieces from the ’40s and ’50s, evoking the post-war boom of prosperity and optimism. Two chronographs make up the three new models. The Heritage Monopusher Chronograph isn’t just salmon-dialled, its dial is subtly sectioned into rings of sunburst brushing and grainy stippling. Black rhodium coats the indices and hands, granting a soft contrast that doesn’t jut out too much. As with each of the new Heritage models, the bent lugs and curved spring bars help reduce the 42mm…