IN-DEPTH: Grand Seiko Movements – Part I, the Mechanicals
It’s a pretty big deal for any watch company to launch an entirely new movement – let alone two new movements at once. But this is what Grand Seiko has done to mark its 60th anniversary. The choice of year is significant: in Western culture, a 60th is not considered particularly special (half and quarter centuries are more celebrated), but in Japan, where the zodiac calendar is based on a 60-year cycle, it is hugely significant. A 60th anniversary signals renewal, revitalisation and rebirth. So, beyond encapsulating the expertise accumulated by Grand Seiko over the past 60 years, these two new movements are a strong statement of intent. They represent each of Grand Seiko’s two pillars: Calibre 9SA5 is a traditional mechanical movement, while Calibre 9RA5 is a Spring Drive movement. These are entirely new movements, with every element developed and produced in-house and designed to last for decades as the foundation for a whole new generation of watches. To understand their place in the Grand Seiko story, let’s look at the genesis of each in turn. As a reminder, when Grand Seiko was created in 1960 – Genzo Kintaro, the founder’s eldest son was Chairman of Seiko, and Shoji…
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This week in Great ‘Grams I wanted to focus on the more lighthearted side of the hobby, and probably the initial reason many of us became interested in horology — it’s fun. It’s fun to learn about a totally new version of a watch you thought you were familiar with, and it’s fun to ooh and aah at a gem-set masterpiece because for some reason even though you might never own it, there is a part of you that is glad it exists. It’s also a lot of fun to meet other passionate people through this hobby: the founders of brands who are working hard to bring something new and exciting to collectors, the retailers who have a smile on their face as they share something you didn’t know before, or the fellow collectors who share their passion with you over a beer after work. So while around the world there is a pervasive mood of fear, confusion and uncertainty, let’s take a moment to focus on the fun of this wonderfully deep rabbit-hole of a hobby. And remember that if we do bump into a brand founder, retailer or fellow enthusiast, it’s best to follow Price Charles’ lead by bowing…
From Watchland, the Genevan estate where Franck Muller is based, you are able to look out across the calm blue waters of Lake Geneva to the far bank, and in the distance gaze up at the white peak of Mont Blanc. In this postcard setting, Watchland is an open expanse of chalet-style buildings designed by the Swiss architect Edmond Fatio, punctuated with manicured gardens that remind of the calm grounds of Versailles. This year, Franck Muller announced that Watchland had been renovated extensively, with two new buildings constructed in the same style as the rest of the estate, which dates back to 1905. These additional buildings are to accommodate around 420 Franck Muller watchmakers, artisans and operational employees to work in a single location, improving efficiency, and also allowing the brand to be more reactive to market demands. The new buildings give the brand an additional 16,000 square metres at their disposal, making it possible to manufacture components, assemble the watches and finish them all in one place. Franck Muller still have a number of other production sites around Switzerland which will stay in operation, so the project has been more of an expansion than a relocation. In true Franck…
The Friday Wind Down was always intended to be some light relief to deliver to the inbox in that window between finishing up for the week and starting the weekend. That precious interstitial place that is usually accompanied by a cold beer or a room-temperature red and some wacky workplace banter. That’s certainly what’s happening in here when we get to writing it. In the background there’s the tic-tac sound of a table tennis ball bouncing off wooden bats. There’s the shouts of defeat, the agonising roars of a loss. There’s laughter, and someone is hogging the Spotify account at a too-loud volume on the office Bose tower. But not today. It’s a wasteland inside the office and out. Every few minutes, not seconds, someone walks past. There is no table tennis noise, the team are social distancing and going slowly mad — according to the increasingly weird emails. But we are all still working on what you need right now — distractions in the form of watches, watch stories and Dustin Martin. Watches Under $500 We don’t know about you, but our watch-buying budgets have been curtailed for the foreseeable future. That’s not to say we won’t all resume…
Casio’s G-Shock watches are already widely regarded as some of the toughest SOBs in the business, capable of taking more punishment than Tyson Fury and still coming back for more. But the Japanese watchmaker has seen fit to, aesthetically at least, step it up a notch, by taking some of their most iconic timepieces and giving them a proper mil-spec treatment, and in doing so creating the G-Shock Utility Series. Comprising a number of different models in G-Shock’s current lineup, we thought we’d take a look at our favourite four iterations from this exciting new collection. Casio G-Shock DW-5610SUS-5 G-Shock’s DW-5600 series of watches is perhaps its most recognisable, and the “Utility” treatment that they have given to this model in particular is easily my personal favourite. The matte sandy-beige case has been contrasted with a matte black bezel and the watch’s dial features a Saharan camouflage motif, which looks downright cool. Paired with an equally great-looking black fabric strap, this watch screams robustness and exploration, and if I were going on a Safari, this is the watch I’d want strapped to my wrist. Casio G-Shock DW-5610SU-3 Perhaps the most mil-spec looking watch of the lot, the G-Shock…
Hublot has decided to celebrate their love of Britain’s capital city in quite a literal way – by producing this, the Hublot Classic Fusion Special Edition London. Based on the standard Classic Fusion, the 45mm case of the new London edition features bespoke elements such as a polished black ceramic case, black satin-finished bezel and a rubber band that’s capped with a velvet-effect “City Of London” tartan theme. The real pièce de résistance of the new limited edition watch, however, is its brushed black ceramic dial, which features a micro-blasted Union Jack motif, which is etched into the dial and spills out onto the bezel. Hublot has seen fit to proclaim their adoration for the UK’s most populous city by printing “Hublot Loves London” on the sapphire crystal display caseback. The Hublot Classic Fusion Special Edition London is limited to just 50 pieces in total, and you’ll only be able to purchase the matte black marvel at Hublot’s New Bond Street boutique or from the UK’s premier retailer, Harrods. As the title of this story alluded to, this isn’t the first time that the Swiss watchmaker has commemorated one of the world’s greatest cities. In fact, Hublot’s London special edition…
Daniel Braillard, the COO of Baume & Mercier, is itching to show me something. The pleasantries ahead of the interview are going on, but he holds in his hand a Baume & Mercier Classima and in the other his iPhone, in its case. I take the bait. What’s up? Is there to be a demonstration? He nods, and places the watch on a device that connects to an app on his phone which measures the accuracy. It is measured at +6 seconds per day. Not bad. The Classima has a viewing window on the escapement. Next he places it over the iPhone case. Specifically, he places it on the part of the case where a magnet is concealed, which allows the flip front of the case to securely close. The escapement, as if stunned by a blow, wobbles and then stops moving. He places the watch back on the device … the accuracy is now +1.9 minutes a day. We go through the process again with the Baume & Mercier Baumatic, an absolute breakthrough watch for the brand, which offers a 120-hour power reserve and an antimagnetic movement, either COSC certified or not, depending on the model. Without spoiling…
In an increasingly common trend among Swiss watchmakers, H. Moser & Cie. has unveiled a dedicated, in-house managed range of certified pre-owned watches. Available for purchase directly through the H. Moser & Cie. website, the curated collection of timepieces are, according to Moser, meticulously inspected, serviced and polished back to factory original condition by the Swiss firm’s master watchmakers. What’s more, every pre-owned watch sold will come with a guarantee of authenticity as well as 24 months of factory warranty, which is a nice touch. We’ve spent the last couple of hours poring over the pre-loved range and we’ve got to admit that Moser is definitely on to something with this enterprise – there are some limited edition pieces on offer that are rarer than … well, a limited edition Moser. The collection will constantly be evolving as time goes on, but as of right now, these are our three favourites. Venturer Small Seconds Ref. 2327-1203 Limited to just 10 pieces in the world, this Venturer Small Seconds, replete with purple fumé dial, is achingly attractive. And, in a trend that’s quite common among the uncommon, limited edition Mosers out there, we’re really digging the lack of logo – it…
With all the uncertainty in the world right now, spending several months’ salary on a watch might seem like an idea that can wait a while. But for those in the watch community, the idea of not knowing where your next drink is coming from can be an uncomfortable feeling. With that in mind, let’s take a look at some of the best watches you can currently buy that will scratch that new-watch itch, without meaning you have to go without toilet paper for the next few months. So without further ado, let’s get better acquainted with a few of the finest watches on the market that will ring the till close to AUD$500. Baltic HMS 001 The first watch from the French-based outfit, the Baltic HMS 001 is a vintage-inspired time-only watch with a velvet-like black dial. Contrasted nicely is the eye-catching gold case, hands and dial markings, which elevate the feeling of this classic design. The Baltic HMS 001 is €332.50 Q Timex Reissue Falcon Eye 38mm Timex have been kicking goals with their swag of reissues based on their rich archive of designs. While the Timex M79 with Batman bezel attracted significant attention, the Falcon Eye somehow…
Rolex Chief Executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour has today informed Rolex staff that they will be shutting down three factories in response to the increasing threat of COVID-19, from 5pm today. First reported by WatchPro USA, the news of the shut down was shared to Rolex employees in a letter, indicating the shut-down is set to last 10 days. Factories will look to reopen on March 27, should the danger of Coronavirus been seen to have reduced during that period. In an environment where many Rolex models, specifically stainless steel Professional models, are very difficult to purchase at retail due to immense demand, this is sure to exacerbate the situation where waiting lists are measured in years, not months. The full transcript of the letter shared with Rolex employees (originally in French), is below: Like I have already said, we are going to face a very serious situation. With the objective to protect you, your familes and those close, but also to limit risks of propagation and the spread of Coronavirus we have decided to close our sites of production in Geneva, Bienne and Chirst from Monday 17th of March until Friday 27th of March. This date is subject to change based…