What Sealed The Deal: Ben's Bulgari Diagono Scuba
Ben came into the Time+Tide offices to buy a NATO strap for his TAG Heuer Monaco. But the conversation quickly turned to the unusual Bulgari diver’s watch on his wrist. Here, Ben explains the backstory behind the purchase and why — despite it contradicting everything he normally likes in a watch — he absolutely loves it. Originally, this was my dad’s watch, but I think he only wore it twice in 10 years. Dad tends to like bigger pieces – he’s also got a Panerai Luminor and a TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5. With this watch, he’d always just say it was “too formal”. So I keep saying, “Let me buy this watch off you! Let me buy it off you!” My dad would always refuse. He’d say, “Ben, I bought this watch for 10 grand. I’m not going to sell it to you.” But I persisted. It’s strange because I don’t really like flashy watches. I probably wouldn’t wear an all-gold watch; in fact, I’d even avoid most two-tone watches. My dream watch is just a white dial Vacheron Constantin Overseas — no chronograph, just nice, plain, simple. But, for me, this watch just had the perfect amount of gold. It’s not…
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It’s a good thing that wearing a watch is something that you can do regardless of the weather, because Australia is in the midst of an absolute doozy of a summer. Over the last few months devastating fires have ravaged the countryside, and now parts of the land are completely flooded. Regardless, I went out in search of timepieces at a very damp Sandown race track, about 25 kilometres south east of Melbourne, for the first round of the Australian GT Championship. Here’s what I found: And now to the watches: Riley’s (@roleyman) Longines Avigation BigEye Riley has been after a pilot’s watch for quite some time, and when this Longines Avigation BigEye came up at a reputable secondhand dealer late last week, he jumped at the opportunity. A former GPHG ‘Revival Watch Prize’ winner, the Avigation is a very cool watch. The dial is charmingly utilitarian, and harks back to the tool watches of the ’50s, and the 41mm stainless-steel, stepped case, domed sapphire crystal and pronounced chronograph pushers give it good wrist presence without being too overbearing – a problem with some pilot’s watches. Riley says his new Longines is going to take over weekend watch duties from…
Well, this is a bit different to a normal What Sealed The Deal … seeing as this Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph is actually my watch. I purchased it late last year after a particularly dogged haggling match that started with a seemingly innocuous Gumtree.com ad. Anyway, I’ll spare you the deets of the torrid exchange of words … let’s get started: When did you first see/hear about it? This particular Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph, Ref. MV045216, had been on my radar for quite some time. In fact, I remember when it was first unveiled thinking it was a handsome-looking timepiece. Fast forward a couple of years, and one of my closest mates purchased a very similar Capeland Chronograph S, Ref. M0A08113, which utilised the same ETA/Valjoux 7750 based Calibre BM 13750. It was such a good watch, and the heft and perceived quality of the timepiece left a lasting impression. Any story behind the purchase? Nothing too profound really. However, I will say that it’s definitely worth keeping an eye on the classifieds on Gumtree and eBay, because bargains do pop up from time to time, and when they do, you have to act … quickly. Oh, and always…
Few other bezel designs in recent memory have conjured more furore and admiration in the horological community than the so-called Batman bezel. Yes, the black and blue aesthetic has had everyone in a tizzy for years now, likely since Rolex unveiled their GMT-Master II Ref. 116710BLNR in 2013. Since then, the two colours have featured on the bezels of numerous watches from other manufacturers, keen to celebrate the oh-so-vogue colours and, let’s be honest, punch their ticket on the hype train. However, while motivations for creating such timepieces might trigger the odd cynical reaction, there are now many watches out there that rock the Bruce Wayne bravado just as well as the original Batman. On that note, here are five of the best black and blue timepieces on the market right now. Timex M79 Automatic OK, yes, this is a controversial one, mainly because despite being released just days ago, the new Timex M79 Automatic has already sold out and you can find the watches on eBay commanding a hefty premium … damn flippers! Anyway, ignoring the cheeky speculators, the new M79 Automatic is a good-looking watch, and if you can manage to get your hands on one for retail…
Editor’s note: Breguet has a remarkable history of producing clocks and watches that were designed for travel. Whether it’s the marine chronometers made to set sail across the world’s oceans, or the more conventional GMT wristwatch, the brand has always understood the human urge to seek what is over the horizon. With the Hora Mundi ref. 5717, we have a GMT complication, but not as you’re used to seeing. Let’s take a closer look. The remarkable Hora Mundi ref. 5717 made its first appearance in 2011, to an enthusiastic reception. Then, in 2016, when Breguet launched an updated version (ref. 5727) they spoke of it as a replacement for the original. But some things are simply too special to discontinue. Thank goodness – for we rarely encounter a watch that combines technical genius, great beauty and immense charm in the way that this version of Hora Mundi does. For those of us who are constantly on the move, a multiple time-zone complication is one of the most useful things to have in a watch – and, unsurprisingly, it’s offered by almost all of the top makers. More surprising, though, is how little variety there is in the style of display:…
Of all the Swiss watch manufacturers, Audemars Piguet has had one of the longest and most storied histories since their founding in the Vallée de Joux in 1875. For their entire period of operation, Audemars Piguet has been a family-run watchmaker, affording them an independence from the commercial pressures of conglomerates and allowing the brand to concentrate on the past and the future, rather than the present. This attitude to prioritise their legacy before the results of the last quarter has seen Audemars Piguet pour resources into accurately recording their history as it occurs, resulting in an impressive archive of not only their own watches, but of watches made in the Vallée de Joux – many of which are on display in their museum. One of the key figures behind this scholarly approach to the history of Audemars Piguet is Michael Friedman, a historian who has been working for the watchmaker since 2012, previously working at the auction house Christie’s. He sat down with the folks at Blackbird Watch Manual to talk about why Gérald Genta’s successor was even more central to the history of Audemars Piguet, the history of the tourbillon, and why the firm is so good at producing…
Hailing from Amsterdam, Batavi watches are a microbrand keen on paying homage to the famous tool watches of yesteryear, with a modern and novel twist. Hot on the heels of their handsome, fit-for-purpose dive watch, the Noordzee, the Dutch outfit has now set their sights on creating a GMT-equipped timepiece that aims to celebrate the faded bezels and heritage of some of the most iconic jet-setting timepieces from the ’60s and ’70s. Called the Batavi Kosmopoliet GMT, this is a sports watch that, on paper at least, has all the ingredients to be a compelling timepiece for enthusiasts. The watch’s dimensions, for example, mark it out as a veritable crowd-pleaser, thanks to a classically proportioned 39mm stainless steel case that measures a relatively inconsequential 12.5mm thick. The case also features polished, angular lugs that blend old world charm with contemporary flair, and, thanks to a screw-down crown and case back, 200 metres of water resistance. The dial and bezel options also appear to be quite arresting, and from launch there will be three different combinations available – the “Medina”, which utilises a sunburst black dial with faded blue and pink bezel; the “Amsterdam”, which features a sunburst navy blue dial…
Few watches scream haute horology like a perpetual calendar. In fact, in the eyes of many enthusiasts, a QP is the nonpareil of complicated timepieces … which is totally understandable, especially when you consider that these infinitesimal mechanical movements are capable of accurately giving owners so much information. What’s more interesting still is how different one QP can look to the next. With that in mind, we thought we’d share with you five of the most exciting perpetual calendar watches of the last year: HABRING PERPETUAL-DOPPEL Arguably Austria’s best known watch brand stormed into 2019 with the Habring Perpetual-Doppel, which is a new perpetual calendar with the added complication of a rattrapante chronograph. It was released to celebrate the brand’s 15th birthday. This model comes in two dial variants. The dial-side modifications made in-house to relatively straightforward movements by the husband-and-wife-led team are really something. This particular Habring manages to display a huge amount of information in a clear, aesthetically distinct and unconsciously cool manner. Ref No: Perpetual-Doppel / Case size: 43mm / Case material: Steel / Movement: A11P / Price: $34,000 IWC BIG PILOT’S WATCH PERPETUAL CALENDAR SPITFIRE The Big Pilot series is one of the most iconic ranges…
It was during a particularly cold snap in January that I decided to get off the couch and out of the house. I was restless. The internet had been bombarding me with watch photos, opinions, reviews and advertising. I’m quite sure the only Google algorithm pointed at me is for watches. On that frigid January evening all these influences conspired to push me toward the mall (which is a recognised natural habitat for most Canadians in the winter months). Luckily, as everyone else had stayed home, I had near-exclusive access to a great boutique which housed an impressive selection of my favourite watch brands. The sales rep was extremely patient with me and after much head scratching, it was down to two Omegas: the relatively new Seamaster Diver 300M and the venerable Speedmaster Moonwatch, both of which are priced within $300 of each other on a bracelet. If you haven’t already, you can read right here about some of the reasons it’s hard for me to buy a Speedy; however, I have to say, the Seamaster Diver simply charmed the wallet out of my pocket. The model I purchased was released in 2018 as an overhaul of the early 1990s…
**UPDATE: We have had confirmation from Franck Muller Australia that the stolen model is a round diamond watch, model number 4200 QZ R D3 CD 5 N with serial number 36. If you come across this watch, please contact Crime Stoppers on 1800 333 000. No pictures of the watch are available at this time.** Our thoughts this morning go out to the staff at the Franck Muller boutique who, on Wednesday morning at 10:40am were subjected to a terrifying experience, when a man in an unconvincing long wig, and black rubber gloves (which are commonly spotted in the Melbourne on people, and particularly tourists, during this Coronavirus outbreak) entered the store, threatened them with an uncapped syringe and gesturing to a hammer concealed in his pants. He proceeded to take out the hammer, smash a glass display case and steal a rose gold and diamond model worth $100,000AUD. We do not know the exact model at this time, but will update the story if more information is shared with us. The entire burglary took around 45 seconds. Police have said “We are concerned that if someone is prepared to do that during the day, we want to identify and locate…