VIDEO: The H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph refuses to play by the rules

H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback ChronographJust when we had finally sussed out the design language of Moser they have another ace up their sleeve and it seems to be a very big sleeve indeed. The H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph still feels new, even after being out for almost a year and, with its timeless vibe, I suspect that’ll still be the case after many years, especially with this new and alluring dial. While the holy trinity of legacy brands tweak their tried and tested icons by a millimetre or two, that safe path is not for Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser. This is a marked difference to what we’re used to seeing, especially in the hotly contested integrated bracelet category. But I think that’s exactly what we need. Here, instead of homage, we have retro futurism inspired by the streamlined designs of 1920s trains and cars, delivered in a fresh and innovative way. The H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is a reference for which the word “curvilinear” seems to fit. Angular is not a term Moser needs to express themselves, and this is one of the distinct details that sets them apart. Images will not prepare you for the firm yet…

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4 years ago

6 watches Daft Punk might have been wearing when they self destructed this week (SOB)

Daft Punk watchesInitially, the idea of robots taking over the earth doesn’t sound too promising. But if the aforementioned robots happened to be Daft Punk it probably would be quite agreeable with lots of euphoric melodies and filter disco sounds yoked together with a sci-fi aesthetic. But that’s not going to happen now. This week Thomas Bangalter and Guy-Manuel de Homem-Christo announced they were pulling the plug on Daft Punk. The news is particularly regrettable given that we never got a chance to find out what sort of watches the French dance music pioneers wear, but here are our unconfirmed suspicions. Hamilton PSR Based on a concept clock that Hamilton had created specifically for Stanley Kubrick’s interplanetary opus, 2001: A Space Odyssey, the world’s first electronic digital wristwatch was presented to the world in 1970 with no moving parts and an LED digital display illuminated at the touch of a button. The idiosyncratic design was re-released last year in a standard brushed steel model and a limited edition stunner coated in yellow gold PVD. Price: USD$995 G-Shock Full Metal Grid Tunnel GMW-B5000 Daft Punk famously provided the soundtrack to Tron: Legacy (2010), as well as briefly appearing in the film. The G-Shock…

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4 years ago

We have some new team members we’d like you to meet, our US Editor and Independents Editor

One of the upsides of a pretty challenging 2020 was that while it reinforced the tyranny of distance we feel from the industry we’re a part of (international flights, cancelled), oddly enough it also brought us closer than we’ve ever been to overseas friends, industry leaders and freelancers. Personally, I’ve never spoken to more CEOs in one year. We zoomed in to boardrooms, bedrooms, and even Jean-Claude Biver’s atrium to stay in touch with what was going on. And on the freelancer front, with Zoom video conferencing totally de rigeur for team meetings with our Melbourne crew, it was nothing to start having some fresh faces from faraway places. This is how Upper East Side NYC resident Zach Blass started with us, shortly followed by Oslo-based Thor Svaboe. The names are probably familiar to you, as in a short time, they’ve both clocked over 100 stories, and they can’t stop, won’t stop. They say cream rises to the top, in this case, it’s a result of some incredibly high-quality handiwork. So, in early 2021, it gives me great pleasure to announce that Zach is our first ever US Editor, and Thor will take another newly created role as Independents Editor,…

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4 years ago

FEMALE WIND DOWN: That is not a typo, this is not a test. 5 new ways women can get into watches

It’s a fitting time to publish our first ever Female Wind Down, in place of the usual Friday Wind Down. New websites are launching, collectives are forming and congregating on Instagram and Clubhouse, and the noise level questioning many of the fundamental tenets of the watch industry – stemming from the one that designates it primarily a playground for men – is reaching quite a pitch. Meanwhile, everywhere we look, the patriarchy is crumbling. What a time to be alive. If the watch industry were a band venue, there’s that same sense of nervous anticipation before the main act comes on. You know the vibe. It starts as a murmur, then a curtain moves, a kick drum rings out, and it’s noisy as hell, it’s on. But instead of Nirvana, it’s Veruca Salt. Instead of The Ramones at CBGBs, it’s Shonen Knife at an art gallery in Ginza. We are seeing new leaders in the industry and in the media emerge, and for me, it’s as refreshing as a cold glass of water on a hot day. It does take me back. Please indulge a memory. In our first printed material for Time+Tide, in the way, way back of March…

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4 years ago

Women do not need permission to buy men’s watches, so who cares about the category?

The watch industry’s persistent categorising of watches by gender is back on the agenda. And well and truly in frame is the pointlessness of the “women’s watch” category.  But, speaking personally here, I’m not one to let a category push me around. I really don’t count labelling for men and women as being told what to do. For me, those labels are simply a shortcut to getting some idea of what the size, look and feel of the watch might be. Conversely, if I already know what the watch is like, the labels – because they are so predictable and clichéd – are a filter that makes the piece quicker to find. Saves a bit of time, either way. No offence taken. Same goes for trousers. Can be worn by men or women – in that sense, they are gender-neutral. As with a watch, our choice is driven by whether we like the way they look and how good they feel to wear. Do we get upset that clothing boutiques are labelled men and women? Nope. Because it vastly increases our chances of finding something that fits. That said, in the same way that Cara Barrett over at Hodinkee recently…

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4 years ago

INTRODUCING: A duo of disruptors mount up in the King Nerd x G-Shock GM-6900GKING-9ER

Johnny Dowell, a.k.a King Nerd – who was one of our Londoners featured recently in a series by European Editor Mike Christensen – is a watch customizer with a very sharp point of difference. He is an engraver, and applies his craft to watches, among other things – it’s a world of traditional craftsmanship you wouldn’t necessarily associate with street cool wristwear. Today I’m knocked out by his flamboyant collaboration with on-the-march G-Shock in the King Nerd x G-Shock GM-6900GKING-9ER. In this gold version of their tough GM-6900, the IP-plated case and über-cool King Nerd designed patterned strap turn our perceptions of a traditional high tech tool watches upside down, and I love it. From sharpening his skills at Bamford after working for the world renowned gunsmiths James Purdey & Sons, Johnny has become the go-to for some of the wildest, most exciting collaborations in the world of independent watchmaking. from Linde Werdelin to Urwerk, and from coins to camera cases. Johnny has an otherworldly skill, that has put a delicate twist to the alien pod-like creations of Urwerk and the unbreakable tool aesthetic of Linde Werdelin. From coin-based artwork to the intricate dinosaur-motifs, Johnny is proving to be money. G-Shock…

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4 years ago

1 Watch 5 Ways: The Rolex Submariner on rubber, leather and NATO straps

Rolex bracelets are some of the best in the business and the Oyster bracelet with Glidelock on the ref. 114060 Rolex Submariner (featured below in other guises) is a prime example of their incredible construction and fit. But sometimes it is nice to switch things up, especially if you do not have a box full of watches to swap between. Swapping straps is a great way to rejuvenate a watch in your collection and make it feel new with a fresh aesthetic. It can give your daily wearer a different aesthetic and also help you preserve the condition of the bracelet if you are so inclined. Before you take the Oyster bracelet off your Sub, we figured we’d help you to get the party started by putting together five looks and configurations that we think work particularly well with a Rolex Submariner watch. Rolex Submariner on olive tropical strap Tropical straps are a great option for a more casual look and work really well in the summer months of the year. They are very resistant to daily wear as they’re hard to scratch or tear and offer high resistance to water and sweat. The olive green pictured above injects some…

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4 years ago

INTRODUCING: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705”

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705”Heritage is the key buzzword when it comes to watches right now. With many consumers enamored with timepieces of the past, it’s a no-brainer for manufacturers to revive coveted designs and give buyers a chance to acquire new watches inspired by the references of yesteryear. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” is a classic example of this trend, with the brand faithfully reviving a cult watch from 1994. The IWC Ceramic Fliegerchronograph (ref. 3705)  is now considered one of the most sought-after models from the brand’s recent history. After briefly fading into obscurity, it re-gained widespread attention thanks to the patina potential of its classic tritium dial and a ceramic case that was ahead of its time. In fact, one piece from the personal collection of former IWC director Günter Blümlein was auctioned for a staggering $53,750 USD. The new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” maintains the crucial DNA of the original design, but incorporates subtle upgrades to make the watch stack up against the brand’s modern collection. Instead of using ceramic, it features a 41mm case made of Ceratanium® – a proprietary blend of ceramic and titanium developed by IWC. Arguably the most…

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4 years ago

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection goes global

Grand Seiko GMT SeasonsOne of the biggest complaints about the Grand Seiko ‘Four Seasons’ collection had nothing to do with the watches themselves, but the fact that they were only available to the US market. Their nature-inspired dials were lauded for their colour and texture, making the international market envious of what was available in the States. Today a new set of sekki (seasonal phase) inspired dials have been released in the new Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – a line-up of four GMT watches, two of which are powered by the automatic hi-beat caliber 9S86, with the other duo powered by the Spring Drive caliber 9R66. The Hi-Beat models Shunbun – SBGJ251 While the previous Shunbun inspired model SBGA413 was outfitted with a pink-hued cherry blossom dial, within the new Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection it takes on a new tone and texture. Due to the darker tone of the dial, the hours, minutes and GMT hands have a satin-brushed surface on their top facing facet that under direct light will brighten against the deep green dial. The bright pink-gold toned GMT hand symbolises the cherry blossoms that begin to peer out from the trees in spring. According to Grand Seiko, “The…

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4 years ago

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH007 with “Annual Growth Tree Rings” dial in platinum

SLGH007The Grand Seiko brand and the Seiko Corporation have a lot to celebrate this year. Across Seiko brands, the collections have seen growth all around the globe with more and more people gaining respect and admiration for the Japanese manufacturer, even in the most inclement of market conditions. Last evening, at the global Seiko summit, we learned that the standout performers in 2020 were Grand Seiko and Prospex. A major recent milestone is the 140th anniversary of Seiko, a celebration of the brand’s origins and all of the knowledge and artistry that has been developed and nurtured since. Seiko was a vertical manufacturer before it was cool, amassing a mastery of watch fabrication in practically every facet of timepiece development. We previously saw the introduction of the SBGW260 in rose gold to commemorate the 140th anniversary, but today the SLGH007 joins in on the festivities in honor of the milestone – with its platinum 9 series case, 9SA5 hi-beat dual impulse movement, and gorgeous new “Annual Growth Rings” (also known as “Tree Rings”) dial. The case The 9 Series case is the latest rendition of Grand Seiko’s grammar of design, first embodied by the iconic 44GS from 1967. The platinum…

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4 years ago