5 things to look for in a pilot's watch
The pilot’s watch has become a staple of the horological community, specifically within the tool watch market. But, as we’ve seen with divers, the recent surge in their mainstream appeal and marketing has de-emphasised their professional utility. In response, we revisit the fundamentals of a practical pilot’s watch by highlighting five things to look for when buying from this category. Legibility While it should go without saying, a good pilot’s watch should enable the wearer to see the exact time down to the second with merely a glance at their wrist. There’s no place here for watches without minute markers, second hands, or featuring bizarre colour combinations. Legibility is also improved when the crystal has anti-reflective coating. Not only does this reduce the sun glare when trying to see the dial, it prevents inadvertent and distracting reflections being shone into your eyes by a co-pilot with low situational awareness. Accuracy The pilot’s watch needs to be accurate. It’s the law. Civil Aviation Order 20.18 lists aircraft equipment that must be carried in flight and includes the requirement for ‘an accurate timepiece indicating the time in hours, minutes and seconds’ that ‘may be carried on the pilot or navigator’. Military aviation…
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The debate about customised watches after they have left the factory is one that has been raging for generations. Is personalising your watch a laudable expression of individuality? Or is it a crass bastardisation of the very art of watchmaking? Here, Nick Kenyon and James Robinson tackle the debate head on. Nick Kenyon – The For Argument One of the reasons that I am both appreciative and incredibly lucky to have been born in Australia is there is the freedom to pretty much do whatever you want, so long as you aren’t hurting or defaming anyone else in the process. I’m able to express myself however I choose, whether that’s in the way I dress, the things I do, or the things that I say. These exact principles should also apply to the world of watch collecting. If someone decides to modify their new watch, it has absolutely nothing to do with anyone else other than them and their watchmaker. After all, there are innumerable reasons that a person might be interested in the world of watches, including their sense of style and how they present themselves to the world. If they decide to DLC-coat their watch or cover it…
Outfits change when the clock strikes five on Friday afternoon — suits, shirts, ties, leather shoes … all of it makes way for weekend savoir-faire. And if you’re the type of person who likes to get out amongst it at the weekend, whether it be hiking, mountain biking, 4WD … you name it, what you want attached to your wrist is a timepiece that not only looks the part, but can handle the rugged and demanding conditions. These three great military-spec watches perfectly meet that remit, and they’re also some of our favourites in the genre: HAMILTON KHAKI PILOT PIONEER MECHANICAL This Hamilton is one of the best examples of a vintage-inspired military watch we have seen in recent years. It draws inspiration from a watch produced in the 1970s for the British Ministry of Defence. Retaining the same shape as the original watch, the case flows seamlessly into the lugs, all confined within the original 36mm dimensions. The grained dial texture and creamy lume add additional flavour, making it a reissue with seldom paralleled historical accuracy. Ref No: H76419931 / Case size: 36mm / Case material: Steel / Movement: H-50 / Price: USD$770 BREMONT S301 The aesthetics of the Bremont…
John Reardon is one of the world’s foremost experts on collectible vintage watches, having recently left his position as Christie’s International Head of Watches, and one of the areas he is most passionate about is vintage Patek Philippe. So what better way to express that passion and put his wealth of knowledge to good use than start his own dealership of vintage Patek Philippe? He launched Collectability to guide interested members of the watch world on their Patek Philippe collecting journey, buying and selling only the rarest and most interesting pieces produced by the Calatrava cross-bearing manufacturer, offering everything including gold and enamel cigarette lighters, solar desk clocks and even the mythical Patek Philippe “Nautellipse”. As part of his work with the Patek Philippe collecting community, John recently sat down to interview one of the most interesting Instagram accounts I’ve ever seen, despite it only being started a little over a year ago — @horology_ancienne. Run by a father-son duo, the account is one of the best lessons in important wristwatches you might be able to take, focusing on a number of different brands, including vintage Patek Philippe. Their focus is to educate, engage and, most importantly, “to give a totally…
The standout from the new Zenith 2020 novelties is hands down the DEFY Midnight collection. What immediately caught my attention was that Zenith were leading their 2020 new releases with a women’s collection that appeared — in the preamble — to not only be a new product in itself, with various attributes, but for those attributes to be assembled around a strong concept, albeit a very simple one. And that is, an evocation of the night sky on the dial. Hardly groundbreaking in theory, but when played out, it actually has plenty of poetic detail to incorporate. One remains sceptical about new concepts in watch collections. Long bows are almost always drawn. But immediately in the metal I was impressed. The concept iterates in the graduation of the sky at dusk; the way the colour intensifies from the horizon up to the heavens. The immediate comparison is the Rolex James Cameron Deepsea Sea-Dweller, which has a similar concept in reverse — the deepening and darkening of colour as you descend to the depths of the ocean. The navy blue variant — the eponymous model from the collection as it best evokes ‘midnight’ in terms of its night sky — starts at the bottom of the…
Up until a month ago, if you’d asked me whether or not it was appropriate for a man to have diamonds adorning his timepiece, my response would’ve gone something like, “Only if he’s a vapid member of the glitterati, or his vocation is spitting bars”. Bedazzled, iced-out, frosty … whatever you want to call a wristwatch covered in cut-up pieces of highly pressurised carbon, I just couldn’t get behind the the uber shiny aesthetic. You see, I like to think that watches represent utilitarian practicality — they’re a tool that should tell the time, not tell everyone else around you how poor they are. My oh my, how times change, though, because after a revelatory afternoon back in early December, I now endeavour to own a dazzling, diamond-clad wristwatch before the decade is out. How has this massive contradiction come to be? Well, perhaps rather surprisingly, it all started with a trio of Franck Mullers. Long known for their expertise in precious gem-setting, Franck Muller really can make a watch sing like few other watchmakers. And when we had three of their shiniest timepieces arrive in the office just over a month ago for a photoshoot, my revelation was set in…
It may surprise many reading this, but two out of the three Omega watches that really got the collective horological community talking in 2019 weren’t limited editions. In fact, the one limited edition watch that really struck a chord with enthusiasts, the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary, was just a gorgeous looking timepiece, regardless of whether or not it had a finite number of pieces made. Perhaps this signifies the future of Omega — a move away from limited edition timepieces in favour of aesthetically pleasing, technically impressive wristwatches. If the Swiss marque’s latest two releases, the Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition and the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321, are anything to go by, then the move away from limited editions could certainly be the case. Anyway, here were the three biggest Omega fan favourites from 2019: OMEGA SEAMASTER DIVER 300M OMEGA CO-AXIAL MASTER CHRONOMETER The Omega Seamaster is one of watchmaking’s undisputed classics. And while the main key for dive watches is legibility, white dials are not the common choice for this icon. Featuring the engraved ceramic dial and a high-contrast black bezel, the newest addition to the popular Diver collection has supreme legibility thanks to blackened hands indicating the time…
These are strange times in the horological world … on the one hand, it honestly feels like a large portion of gents watches are regressing rather quickly into exceedingly vintage tendencies: aesthetically, dimensionally, mechanically — it just seems like there’s been a complete about-face from the pursuit of the avant-garde. On the other hand, ladies watches have seemingly dodged the vintage vogue all together, and are instead carving a contemporary path forward that includes bright colours, big cases and better mechanical movements. This is evidenced rather perfectly with Rado’s Golden Horse Ref.R33103203. It’s a watch that’s unequivocally made for the gentlewoman. However, unlike a ladies timepiece from a decade ago, which would’ve most likely been two-tone, champagne-dialled, quartz-powered and no more than 28mm, this Golden Horse features a complete stainless steel construction, large 35mm case, bright sunburst blue dial and a mechanical self-winding movement. In fact, the only thing that’s antiquated about this feminine Golden Horse is its name — everything else about it is, for a ladies timepiece, very much from the new-school. The radially brushed, sunburst blue dial, for example, features modish contrasting hints of red, which can be found on the quintessential Rado logo, seconds hand and date wheel. Likewise,…