6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers
For lovers of Haute Horlogerie, the term “fashion watch” is often akin to a cuss word. But one doesn’t have to dig very far into the history of fine watchmaking to realise just how much we have to thank fashion labels for, and how the best fashion watch brands are serious watchmakers. In the 1980s, following the darkest period in luxury horology’s history, during which time quartz watches had threatened to extinguish the craft entirely, it was fashion brands that changed the way watches were seen and worn. Although it seems a bit counterintuitive these days, the idea of a watch as a throwaway accessory helped the luxury industry prosper, simply because it suddenly made watches seem desirable when, in the past, they’d just been viewed as necessary. And rare as it is, there are some excellent watchmakers in the world today that began life as fashion brands, before making a huge investment in proper manufacturing. These are some of the brands that successfully crossed the divide. Bulgari When it comes to transforming a reputation, Bulgari wrote the book. With some of the most impressive manufacturing feats of the past decade to its name (who can forget the Bulgari Octo…
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I’ve certainly had less turbulent years. In 2019, I quit a stable job, hurled myself into start-up life and lived with my in-laws for 10 months (!) before moving into a house that can euphemistically be described as “a renovator’s delight”. I changed a gazillion nappies and failed miserably to persuade my two sons — aged one and two — to sleep through the night. Over the last 12 months I’ve rarely worked so hard or slept so little. That’s probably why I was particularly drawn to vintage-inspired pieces this year. Their nostalgic designs hark back to a simpler time that, we imagine, was calmer, kinder and marginally less batshit-crazy. But I’m also now living right by the beach. That means that for the first time in my life, I’ve suddenly found myself hankering for a diving watch, something rugged and waterproof that can stand up to building sandcastles and retrieving small children from rock-pools. GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SEVENTIES CHRONOGRAPH PANORAMA DATE Bow-chicka-wow-wow! That’s the sound this retro-tastic chronograph would make if it could talk. Sadly, it can’t. But we’re prepared to overlook that minor disappointment on account of the wondrous green fumé dial — made at Glashütte’s in-house facility in Pforzheim – housed…
Mastering the creation of a material that was first conceived more than 400 years ago while simultaneously bringing it into the 21st century is no mean feat. But that’s exactly what Seiko has done with its silky smooth Presage Arita Porcelain Dial SPB093. Widely regarded as some of the nicest and most ornate on the planet, Arita porcelain hails from the small town of — as the name would suggest — Arita, which is located in the Nishimatsuura District of the Saga Prefecture, Japan. It is a gorgeous material to behold, and its esteem is most certainly founded. However, it is quite fragile, and Seiko ran numerous tests with traditional Arita porcelain before ascertaining that it was not strong enough as a dial material to withstand the rigours of a daily worn timepiece. The Japanese watchmaker surely thought that some reinventing of the potter’s wheel was in order. Luckily, though, a new type of Arita porcelain had in fact already been developed just three years ago, and it was said to not only retain the defining aesthetic qualities of the famed material, but possess a strength four times that of normal Arita porcelain. The rest, as they say, is history, and having…
What’s the single most important component that dictates whether a new watch will be lauded or loathed by enthusiasts? Personally, I think a timepiece’s dial is the ultimate barometer of whether or not it’s a success. It’s what we look at most, and a beautiful dial has the ability to capture the imagination. There have been a bevy of wristwatches released in 2019 with gorgeous dials, and while we’d like to mention all of them, these five stood out as some of the best: ANORDAIN MODEL 2 TORR BLUE Scotland is not a location that immediately comes to mind when you think of watches with handmade enamel dials, but that is exactly what anOrdain offer. There is a reason you don’t see many watches with enamel dials, and that is because they are so challenging to produce. With each dial that anOrdain create taking a minimum of 12 hours, they are as rare as they are beautiful, with a glossy depth that only grand feu enamelling can achieve. Ref No: Torr Blue / Case size: 36mm / Case material: Steel / Movement: Sellita SW-210-1 / Price: $1970 MING 17.06 COPPER For a brand that has only been producing watches for…
If you regard yourself as a fan of luxury watchmaking, it’s probably fair enough to assume that you have heard of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. For those of you that haven’t, it is, quite simply, an icon. It is the epitome of luxury steel watches, and there’s a good reason for that (read on to find out). Aside from being designed in a single day by the endlessly inventive mind of Gérald Genta, the Royal Oak’s popularity has endured. And as one might expect for a model so steeped in history, a few myths and legends have sprung up since its release. Here are a few interesting facts that may confirm or debunk those swirling rumours that might have reached your ears. The octagonal bezel was inspired by a diver’s helmet More often than not, it is said that the instantly recognisable bezel of the Royal Oak was inspired by a ship’s porthole. While this does seem a plausible explanation, it is false. The bezel, with its eight polished bolts, is actually inspired by a diver’s helmet – the kind you’d expect to see a modern-day commercial diver wearing (not the big, grilled, copper-type you associate with Jules Verne).…
There are several reasons why some motoring enthusiasts will always gravitate to an automobile with a manually operated transmission: more involvement, a greater sense of connection, more autonomy and control — the list goes on. And it’s the same story with manually winding watches. Sure, an automatic movement is easier and more convenient, but there’s a palpable old-school charm about a watch that needs to be wound by hand. In fact, for some it’s a ritual that is paramount to the enjoyment of owning a timepiece. With that in mind, we thought we’d share with you three of our favourite manually wound watches released in 2019: GRAND SEIKO SBGK005 The Grand Seiko Elegance Collection got a real boost earlier this year when reference SBGK005 debuted as part of a range promoting artisanal dial finishes. This blue dial is finished with the Mt Iwate pattern and coated with Urushi lacquer. The dial markings are applied via the ancient technique of Maki-e (gold and silver powder layered atop the lacquer). The Zaratsu method – developed to accentuate the aesthetic appearance of curved surfaces – is used to polish the case. Ref No: SBGK005 / Case size: 39mm / Case material: Steel / Movement: 9S63…
I write on Christmas morning, in Melbourne, Australia from the kitchen table of my parents’ house. The children are watching the Stick Man Christmas Special on TV. The air outside is hazy and thick with bushfire smoke, slowly filtering down from the state above Victoria, New South Wales. There are currently 343 bushfires burning out of control across the country – 3000 homes have been lost, and many lives in a summer bushfire season that shapes as the worst on record. Three days ago, the average temperature across the entire country was 42 degrees. I know many of y’all envy our great Aussie climate. Trust me, you don’t this December. I give this broader worldly context, because it’s an odd point of view to write about the year just gone in watches. It’s more difficult than any other year in my life when writing a yearly wrap to ‘get in the zone’. To reinhabit the watch world bubble we live in. But the smoke being so thick gives particular clarity to the reflections. It’s harder to drink our refreshing watch industry Kool-Aid today because our throats are parched from the ash and cinders. So here we go. For me, the…
For many years now, watchmakers on all levels have tried to separate themselves from the pack by experimenting with different watch case materials. Nowadays, we’re used to seeing some highly impressive materials make their way onto our wrists. Ceramics, plastics and carbons are all enjoying their day in the sun, but how do the older, more traditional metals stack up against one another? Here’s a quick guide to the most popular metal cases on the market today. Stainless steel Stainless steel is a common, highly resistant, easy-to-machine alloy that comes in a few types. The most common (by far) is 316L stainless steel. This is hypoallergenic, surgical grade steel that is favoured by many manufacturers for its ease of use and affordability. Although 904L steel (the kind used by Rolex) has the potential to be more resistant to corrosion and to hold a high polish better, the margin for error in the performance of these two types of steel actually overlaps, so in practical terms, while 904L is generally regarded as superior, the difference is minimal (and could theoretically be non-existent). Bronze Bronze is far from a traditional material for watch cases but is currently very much in vogue.…
Kanye West is many things: hip-hop superstar, fashion designer, maverick genius, not to mention Kim Kardashian’s other half. What he is not often recognised as is a beacon of sound common sense. It turns out there’s a very good reason for this. Yeezy’s public comments suggest a man who is not only a full-blown egomaniac (“By 50% I am more influential than Stanley Kubrick, Apostle Paul, Picasso…”) but also slightly deranged (“I would never want a book’s autograph. I am a proud non-reader of books.”) Oh dear. Nevertheless, there was a moment when the 42-year-old rapper uttered the most profound truth imaginable. It’s worth repeating not to aid your ceaseless quest for knowledge and wisdom but because, far more importantly, it could help rationalise your next watch buy. “The only luxury is time,” Kanye said in a rare lucid moment. “The time you spend with your family.” Hard to argue with that one. In the final analysis, spending time with the people you most love – whether friends or family – is something we should all prioritise a whole lot more of. Luxury splurges from bespoke suits to fine wine are all very well. But let’s face it: on your death-bed you’re…
One of the biggest trends for timepieces of the last decade has been oversized case dimensions that stretch well into the 45mm plus category. And while the inclination for producing gargantuan wristwatches is starting to cool as tastes in the horological community change, this year has still spawned some absolute doozies for those that like a wristwatch that can be seen from the next postcode. Here are our three favourite biggest watches of 2019: PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE MARINA MILITARE CARBOTECH While Panerai watches have been long-held favourites of the diving community for their no-nonsense approach to robustness and legibility, the enormous housings in which the brand’s attractive calibres reside provide the perfect playground for mad material scientists to experiment. The relative simplicity of Panerai’s signature look makes it ripe for reimagining. The Carbotech model is fascinating to look at, but even more interesting to wear given its hefty proportions, but surprising lightness. Ref No: PAM00979 / Case size: 47mm / Case material: Carbotech / Movement: P.9010 / Price: $27,200 FRANCK MULLER SKAFANDER CHRONOGRAPH 2019 The Skafander, Romanian for diving suit, is Franck Muller’s interpretation of a dive watch, and it bears all of the brand’s hallmarks: a hefty, modular case with…