Taking flight with the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII
Initially created for the French Ministry of Defence for the French Air Force, the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII are timekeeping devices steeped in the history of aviation-specific wristwatches. First released in 1954, the Type XX was the first aviation watch ever created by the storied Swiss watchmaker, who specifically produced the timepiece at the behest of the aforementioned French Ministry of Defence, who had originally approached Breguet to commission 500 examples of a flight-ready wristwatch with a flyback chronograph complication. The rest, as the old adage goes, is history, and now Breguet makes a great many iterations of the fabled aeronautical watch, and we thought we’d take a look at three of our favourite models. Breguet Type XX 3800 The Breguet Type XX 3800 is a faithful reinterpretation of the original Type XX, and is personally my favourite timepiece from Breguet’s sizeable aviation collection. Why is it my favourite, you may ask? Well, for a start, it wears a lot smaller than most flight-ready wristwatches you’ll find on the market, with the familiar stainless steel case measuring in at a reasonable 39mm and 14.4mm thick. It also presents a nicely vintage aesthetic, without being a pastiche. The…
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It’s been a pretty busy year for boutique Swiss watchmaker H. Moser & Cie, from the introduction of several new models at this year’s SIHH, right through to the arresting Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar, which was unveiled just a few short months ago. The eccentric Swiss marque isn’t done with the 2019 new releases, however, as they’ve just dropped this – the stunning H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine. Based on the underpinnings of the original Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept, the new timepiece’s Aventurine dial is quite stunning and, according to Moser, is meant to pay tribute to the stars that shroud the moon above us in the night sky. As with previous examples of the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept, the case measures a well-judged 42mm and 13.1mm thick, and is available in a choice of two different materials: 18k 5N red gold or stainless steel. Inside the beautifully polished case you’ll find Moser’s in-house Calibre HMC 801, a manual-winding movement that offers customers a bevy of great features including moonphase complication, no less than seven days of power reserve thanks to Moser’s interchangeable escapement, original Straumann Hairspring, 28 jewels and an operating frequency of 18,000…
Editor’s note: I’m sure that at one point or another you’ve been wearing your favourite watch and thought, “This is definitely ‘gram’ worthy”. But taking the perfect wrist shot is by no means a simple task. In fact, it’s an art form that can be exceedingly complicated and multifaceted. Luckily for us, however, back in 2017, Ceri David treated us to an absolute masterclass in how to take the perfect “wristy” for Instagram. And whether you’re a bit light on the follower count, or you’re just looking at ways to up the photographic ante, this is definitely worth a read. If you’re feeling brave, type ‘wristies’ into the Google machine, and you’ll be rewarded with an eye-opening array of results. Who knew, for example, that they were a type of fingerless gloves? Fascinating stuff. Those are not the wristies we’re focusing on today – nor will we be broaching any other varieties, thank you very much. Instead, we’re here to talk about the humble watch wristshot. Many take them, but ever fewer succeed at pulling a like, heart or share, because, well, it’s been years now, and the game is a whole lot harder. So in an effort to make…
Nothing raises the heart rate of a watch enthusiast faster than the story of a tool watch being used in the environment it was originally designed for, which was why I almost needed to call an ambulance when Nic told me the story of his Bremont ALT1-WT made for his RAAF squadron. Nic’s job is flying the fuel tankers of the sky, Australia’s KC-30s, which are able to refuel other aircraft while mid-flight. In his squadron’s collaboration with Bremont, they customised a number of elements of the original watch, including striping the GMT hand the same colours as their refuelling boom, editing the world timer ring to reflect the airport codes of locations they’ve operated out of, and adding their unit crest to the sub-dial at 9 o’clock. It’s one of the coolest custom watches I’ve ever seen, so without further ado – what sealed the deal on Nic’s custom military Bremont. When did you first see/hear about it? I first heard about the Bremont Watch Company when I was undertaking my pilot training. One of our flying instructors had ejected from an aircraft the previous year and was in the process of purchasing the MBI he’d become eligible for, telling…
Of all of the high-quality, well-finished and technically impressive Breguet watches, it is probably the Breguet Classique 5177 that you think of when you consider modern watches from the brand, and there’s a very good reason for that. Its spartan conservatism forces you to look for any notes of flair or extravagance, and you’re rewarded all the more for it. Amidst the inky depths of the expansive Grand Feu enamel dial, you are treated to the classically proportioned silver Arabic numerals, finished with an expressive serif that speaks to its discreet élan. As we discuss in the video, while Breguet are known for their mastery of the guilloché technique on all manner of surface materials, they employ some of the best enamel dials on earth, exemplified in the dial of the Breguet Classique 5177. While the dial is sparse, the restraint offers one of the most perfect expressions of a modern dress watch on the market. Far from being dull, the thoughtfulness of each element shows exactly what can be achieved when more than 200 years of collective expertise is distilled into a single watch. Breguet Classique 5177 price The Breguet Classique 5177 has an RRP of AUD $32,000 For more…
With Only Watch 2019 now just a few short days away, there’s a veritable smorgasbord of gorgeous piece-unique watches and timekeeping devices heading to the auction block. In fact, there are 50 watches in total taking part in this year’s charity auction, with all funds raised going to the research of Duchenne muscular dystrophy. And while all the timepieces are gorgeous and inimitable, the price from one watch to the next can vary greatly in terms of their estimated value. So, we thought it’d be interesting to take a look at the top 3 most expensive timepieces up for grabs at Only Watch 2019: Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A-010 We couldn’t write this list without mentioning the truly astonishing offering from Patek Philippe for this year’s Only Watch – the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A-010. Now, let’s not beat around the bush with this one, the Grandmaster Chime was always going to command an eye-watering price, but the extent of the estimate borders on what most mere mortals would consider absurd. However, for the lucky winning bidder, they will have purchased one of the most complicated timepieces ever created from arguably the best watchmaker on planet Earth. $2,500,000…
We have recommended taking a look at the master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin deconstructing various watches in the past, and that’s because how interesting it is to get a proper look into some of the most popular watches out there. What makes this deconstruction by Peter interesting is that it is with the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT, a watch from a brand that has carved a name for itself thanks to the unparalleled levels of finishing to its cases and dials. But it does beg the question: is the interior of their watch movements — usually hidden from even the most prying eyes — as well finished as the exterior? As you’ll see, the more closely you look at the 9S86 movement, the more impressive it gets. From skeletonised escape wheels and pallet forks, to the stunningly even application of the Tokyo stripes, it is certainly a sight to behold. To watch the video and see the full deconstruction explained, visit The Naked Watchmaker right here.
Editor’s note: As summer is swiftly approaching (in the Southern Hemisphere), a couple of friends who are into watches and I have been increasingly keen on picking up a summer watch. The thing about a summer watch is that you don’t want to break the bank when buying one, just in case you do only wear it during the summer. Which led me to thinking about the best watches that live for the summer months, but are also relatively affordable. Have a read, and let us know your favourite affordable watch for summer in the socials comments. Not everybody can afford the big guns: Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Lange & Söhne, Breguet … These brands are, for many of us, a little out of reach (unfortunately). But that doesn’t mean we can’t appreciate them from afar. Nor does it mean that we can’t find watches within our grasp that offer enough bang for their buck to earn the approval of even the snobbiest of watch snobs (well, okay, maybe not the snobbiest). Not all of the brands on this list of the best budget watch brands look a lot like any of the watches produced by the haute…
Exotic stone dials have always been popular with watch collectors, not only for their stunning beauty but also their typical rarity and the unique patterning from stone to stone. This same dial technique has been used in the two examples of stone dial Omega Seamaster 300s, a classic dive watch that is typically considered to be an under-the-radar daily wear watch – until you make the case in precious metal and the dial out of a semi-precious stone. Both the Omega Seamaster 300 with a lapis lazuli dial and a malachite dial express a kind of opulent excess that is deeply attractive in a way that evokes guilt and wonder in equal measure. Part of your brain questions the motivation behind its existence, and the other part can’t help but stare in the same slack-jawed awe you experience while looking up at the ceiling of St Mark’s Basilica. It is certainly unnecessary, but it is also beautiful, which is a justification in and of itself. Firstly focusing on the lapis lazuli example: the richly flecked blue dial is cased in 41mm of a platinum-gold, while the hands are 18k white gold and the bezel is polished blue ceramic. Probably to…
Editor’s note: A couple of years ago, Andrew and the team were lucky enough to travel to Lord Howe Island to explore the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection and, in the process, enjoy the unbelievable scenery of volcanic spires and fish-filled shallows. While the setting was one of the most remarkable on earth, the focus was on one of the most remarkable brands on earth with a collection of watches that boast the Geneva Seal in a very sporty package. Enjoy the video! We gave a glimpse of our 48 hours in paradise with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection a month ago, but now, with the watches officially revealed and reviewed, it’s time to turn up the envy to unforeseen levels. In addition to mouthwatering shots of the collection, hands-down one of the best in the steel sports category this year, we’re also showing here just how spectacular Lord Howe Island is. From the volcanic peaks, to the friendly schools of fish that mill around your ankles in the shallows, to the outlook from the luxury Capella Lodge where my room had, just months before, been home to Blake Lively during the shooting of shark-as-villain thriller The Shallows. It’s all here,…