RECOMMENDED READING: The World Economic Forum of the vintage watch market
The handful of BIG Rolex collectors meet-ups around the world represent the sanctum sanctorum of the vintage watch world, secretive affairs (which is sensible, given the dollar value of watches on the table) that offer a glimpse not just into the ultra-rarefied, and slightly odd, world of very high-end watch collecting, but also where the market is going. So this outsider’s perspective, from GQ’s Cam Wolf, is a very interesting take on the phenomenon, and the aforementioned World Economic Forum comparison is apt (a little too apt for my tastes). Perhaps ironically, a bunch of dudes obsessed with time-keeping devices show an inability to stay on schedule. It’s a good read, and you can read it here.
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Watches with complications — like the chronograph, moonphase or, in this case, the GMT — are less about practical function and more about possibility. Sure, these watches are designed to excel on the road (or in the air for that matter), but for most wearers, that is an infrequent reality. Still, the possibility of far-off places is enough for many people to fall in love with the GMT complication. It’s also a complication that doesn’t have to break the bank, something these five watches can attest to. Grand Seiko SBGN003 You can make a strong case for this plucky Grand Seiko being one of the greatest GMTs period, regardless of price point. The style is classic sport, and the 39mm case (that isn’t too tall at 12.1mm) is super wearable. Truly versatile and it’s also rocking one of the coolest quartz (!) movements in the business, the mighty 9F. $4400 Montblanc Heritage GMT Here’s a watch that bucks the perception that a GMT has to be sporty. This handsome salmon-dialled fella puts the style in ‘travel in style’, with a 40mm case, gorgeous grey gator strap and that aforementioned dial, which is sophisticated and full of surprising textures. The blue…
Imagine, if you will, that you’re a watch fan in the 1990s or even early 2000s. Through some incredible new complication (I suspect Urwerk’s invention), you’re jumped forward in time to 2019. While some things remain the same, the changes are pretty incredible. Take, for example, this watch. It’s a one-off piece made by Zenith, designed by Phillips (in association with Bacs & Russo). Not only is the thought of an auction house designing a unique watch — which they’ll then sell (for charity) at their Geneva Watch Auction X next month — kind of bonkers, but it’s also amazing just how really, really good-looking it is. Let’s start with the dial. Sure, it’s blue and pretty vintage in a way befitting the mighty El Primero, but that doesn’t begin to express how special this piece is — because it’s made from a slender slice of lapis lazuli, a vivid blue stone flecked with golden inclusions. It’s patina of an entirely different kind and it looks awesome. Add to this the fact that the case is platinum — and you’ve got an even more compelling proposition. And Zenith CEO Julien Tornare says this will be the only platinum A386 ever made, so…
What are the most talked-about watches of 2019? Depends who you ask, obviously, but in a sizeable part of Planet Watch-Nut the answer is “luxury steel sports watch on integrated bracelet” – although not necessarily for good reasons (unless you count over-hype and over-pricing as good). During the past couple of weeks, in another part of watch-planet (which probably, inevitably, has some small degree of crossover with the first one), the most talked about is “the new Lange”. And now we can reveal that it is – drum roll – a luxury steel sports watch on an integrated bracelet. But, having spent some hands-on time with it, I will state with absolute certainty that the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus is much more than “just” that. It’s a surprising watch in some ways – not really Lange and yet totally, indisputably Lange in every molecule. (Mind you, the “not really Lange” bit is only because we tend to think those Saxons make nothing but dressy, leather-strapped watches. Those of you who own Datographs on metal bracelets know better, of course.) That said, the Odysseus is quite particular, so will not be to everyone’s taste – and that’s just fine. The…
Editor’s note: These days, it’s very easy for a watch to be too fussy, too over-designed. Whether it’s unnecessary complications, awkward aesthetics or misjudged attempts at innovation, sometimes a watch just needs to be a watch. A great example of this is Tudor’s Black Bay 41 Blue. This is a timepiece that first and foremost tells the time, honestly and clearly. There are no frills here, nothing too deliberate, just a clean and simple design, a handsome blue dial, solid build quality and a near bulletproof movement. It’s a great example of a time-only watch done right, and our fearless editor Felix Scholz was lucky enough to go hands-on with the timepiece towards the end of last year, and these were his thoughts: Now, it may shock you to learn that not everyone wants a watch bedecked with bezels, chronographs, and other functionality to complicate the equation. Some people are just after a nice watch that tells the time, simple as that. If that’s something that resonates with you, the Tudor Black Bay 41 is a watch you should definitely look into. Introduced a few years ago as a 36mm case with a black dial, the collection has since grown…
A little while ago, Andrew ran a series of overview videos on the various members of the IWC Pilot’s family. And, to be honest, it’s a story well worth telling, as the Pilot’s watch is one of the most recognisable and iconic wristwatch designs of the last 100 years. And while IWC don’t have a monopoly on the style, they’ve certainly made it their own and their various versions are supremely popular for the brand. So, (if you’ll pardon the odd visual pun) take another dive into the world of aviation watches as Andrew talks through the oversized crowns and legible markers of the Classic, Le Petit Prince, Spitfire and Top Gun lines. You won’t regret it. 
With Melbourne’s world famous Spring Racing Carnival now in full swing, there’s a fair bit of chatter about what sort of watch you should be wearing to accompany your (let’s face it) inevitably blue suit. Now, if you’re planning to rock a three-piece, firstly kudos to you, and secondly, definitely consider a pocket watch – Longines has just released a great example, which actually honours their long affiliation with the noble sport of horse racing. However, for the rest of us who are planning to keep time via a wrist-worn timepiece, there are a great many options for such an occasion, and while we understand that personal preference will always dictate the end result, there certainly are criteria that should be abided by. For a start, suit means shirt, and shirt means cuffs, so the watch you wear absolutely cannot be some 45mm, 20mm-thick leviathan that sticks out like a horse’s … you get the picture. No, a shirt cuff requires a watch that’s relatively thin and preferably no larger than 41mm. In addition, the timepiece you don for a day out with the ponies should be relatively elegant and simple, free from gaudy colours, OTT dial designs or obscene…
To say Ellen DeGeneres likes a timepiece or two is probably one of the larger understatements of the year. In fact, you’d have to be living under a rock not to be aware that the comedian and talk show host’s watch collection is probably among the very best of the Hollywood glitterati. There have been countless spots of DeGeneres sporting wrist-worn icons like the solid yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116718 with green dial, and the Patek Philippe ref. 5271 replete with diamond bezel and lugs. However, these watches pale in comparison to her latest purchase – a solid yellow gold Rolex Daytona ref. 6241. That’s right, Big Crown aficionados, it’s a Paul Newman Daytona, and a rather special one at that. Nicknamed the “John Player Special” dial, thanks to its colour scheme — which is reminiscent of cigarette manufacturers’ famed use of black and gold colours — this yellow gold timepiece is one of the rarest 6241s that money can buy. And there’s no denying it’s a great-looking timepiece, replete with its highly contrasted black dial, contrasting yellow gold sub-dials, black tachymeter bezel and yellow gold pump pushers. DeGeneres purchased the timepiece from Amsterdam-based watch dealer Jasper Lijfering, of Amsterdam…
Following on from the successful first collaboration between Panerai and the America’s Cup team Luna Rossa, which spawned the Submersible Luna Rossa, the Italian watchmaker has continued the relationship with the 36th America’s Cup challenger to create three completely new watches. Retaining the same fundamental aesthetic as the first iteration — most notably the dial, which utilises real pieces of sailcloth from the Luna Rossa — the three new watches are, however, distinctly unique from one another, and feature a host of different materials and complications. The Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa Regatta 47mm is the largest of the trio, and the substantial case, which measures 19.94mm thick, is resplendent with Panerai’s Carbotech case construction, which involves layering carbon fibre and then bonding the structure with polymers. The net result of this complex case material is that, although the dimensions of the Luna Rosa Regatta are among the biggest of any watch on sale today, the timepiece itself is comparatively quite light. Housed within the Luna Rossa Regatta’s distinctive case is Panerai’s Calibre P.9100/R, a self-winding movement that benefits from no less than 328 parts, 37 jewels, two spring barrels, Incabloc anti-shock device, Glucydur balance components, 72 hours of power reserve and 28,800…
Paying homage to an affiliation that has spanned more than century, Longines has created a limited edition pocket watch honouring equestrian racing — the Longines Equestrian Pocket Watch Jockey 1878. Hewn from solid 18k rose gold, the equestrian-themed pocket watch is said to imbue the Swiss watchmaker’s passion for horse racing, and features an engraved motif of a horse and jockey on its case back. Limited to just 20 pieces in total, the Equestrian Pocket Watch Jockey 1878 is actually an exacting replica of the first pocket watch Longines ever produced with a chronograph complication. And, according to Longines, this early adaptation of what would go on to become one of the most important complications in both pocket watches and wristwatches alike, meant that their pocket watches were very popular items at racetracks across North America in the twilight of the 19th century. True to the original, which is kept at Longines’ museum in Saint-Imier, the exclusive pocket watch’s dial is very traditional, and features slim Roman numerals and an Arabic minute tracker decorating the crisp white dial. The steel hands on the Equestrian Pocket Watch Jockey 1878 are finished with a distinctively blue hue, and the sub-dial, which displays…