Everybody wants a Tudor Black Bay. But what about the chrono? Anyone?
Editor’s note: The Tudor Black Bay had an extraordinary beginning when it was released in 2012, with the Black Bay red finally giving the brand its flagship model. I remember seeing it in the window of the booth and basically attaching myself to the glass like an abalone. A distressed leather strap with boss-looking deployant. A rich burgundy / red bezel. Gilt touches on indices. A perfect colour dial. Details for days. Shut up and take my money. I had one on my wrist just a few months later. And the Black Bay had a stupendous 2018, when the Black Bay ’58 which many are now hailing the ‘perfect watch’ for the money, fronted up shoulder to shoulder with the Black Bay Pepsi GMT, a watch I mistakenly included in my Top 10. And then retracted, so strongly did I feel I got it wrong. The success of Tudor’s 2018 campaign is still felt by those waiting patiently on wait lists for both models. A wait list for a Tudor. Like I said, stupendous. But what about the middle years? And in particular, the chrono? A steel & gold version was released this year, with a dramatic colourway and a cool strap. Let’s take a…
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Editor’s note: In the pantheon of great watch performances on screen, Tom Hardy’s Omega in Dunkirk is up there. When I first saw the movie at an IMAX theatre in Melbourne, I was that idiot taking shots of the screen when it appeared. I had to know the story of the model – was it a vintage watch sourced by Nolan? Was it a fictional approximation? Being professional watch geeks we had the time and inclination – and the all-important contacts – to find out. It’s perfect Sunday reading for watch lovers, and once again gets to the heart of why watches are so addictive – the story of the watch is the story of humanity. It’s not unusual for a watch to play a starring role in a movie. Often it’s the prop that shows a countdown in a race against time, or it’s a sentimental object, or an indicator of personal style. In the rather stupendous Christopher Nolan mega-production that is Dunkirk (I’m still a little woozy on my feet a day after watching it on an IMAX screen), it’s very much the former. Without giving too much away, Tom Hardy’s character, a Spitfire pilot in the Royal Air Force, must use his…
Editor’s note: There aren’t many words in this picture gallery of the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon concept in red gold, because, well, pictures speak louder than words in this case. To that end, we’ll let them do the talking again. Enjoy. We are. There is absolutely zero doubt that Moser know their way around a fine dial. Their fumé is hypnotic perfection at its best. Last year the brand upped the ante with their conceptual perpetual with impossibly black Vantablack dial. Well, if this well of blackness (which is a wonder on the wrist) leaves you as cold as the black hole it evokes, there’s another, brighter option out there. The Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold, with a more familiar, blue fumé dial. This piece, limited to 50 pieces (and only one in Australia — Melbourne, to be exact), offers, in addition to Moser’s trademarked dial, their wearable combination of masculine, swoopingly architectural case with those delicately scalloped sides and shapely bezel. It’s bold, but not overpowering, thanks to its aggressively clean styling and reasonably sized 42mm wide by 12.9mm tall case. And, of course, let’s not forget about the moon itself in this equation. I love that we…
Editor’s note: Daniel, who originally wrote this thorough analysis of the inflated prices people will pay for watches connected to famous people, is a numbers person. Instead of just musing on the celebrity inflation in general, Dan wanted to get down to the exact percentage that each watch had appreciated based on its estimated value vs its selling price. It’s an astonishing piece of work. While hardly groundbreaking in its actual message – we all know that Hollywood X-Factor runs the game – it’s still interesting to contrast the auction results cross-referenced with the celebs. The power of ‘celebrity’ is not a new concept. As far back as the ancient pharaohs, celebrities have been put on a pedestal (sometimes literally) and we’ve obsessed into the lives of the powerful, the wealthy and the beautiful. These days, technology puts the beautiful people at our fingertips, and this all-access, always-on, microscope into famous lives continues to fuel the celebrity fire. And that desire for fame through association is at its strongest when it comes to celebrity-owned objects. Tonight, Russell Crowe will auction off a collection of movie memorabilia, jewellery and watches at Sotheby’s in Sydney as part of his ‘Art of Divorce’ garage sale (2001…
Editor’s note: Crazy Rich Asians is a cracking film. It’s fresh, funny and ridiculous. For all but the 0.01% of real life Crazy Rich Asians that it – apparently – very faithfully depicts. All of that Rotten Tomatoes validation aside, it also has a watch in it that was borrowed from a collector; and came onto the set with its very own bodyguard. Such a cool story. And props to Kevin Kwan for caring so much about the #details. One of us, for sure. In case you’ve missed the news, a new rom-com, Crazy Rich Asians, is coming to a screen near you. The film adaptation of Kevin Kwan’s bestselling book series has received huge praise since its premiere, notably for the way it’s challenging stereotypes of how Asians are represented in major Hollywood films. The film concentrates on a young Asian-American couple making the journey back to Singapore to meet the family. Of course, the plot twists when the woman travelling to meet her boyfriend’s family finds out they are one of the wealthiest in Singapore. Without spoiling anything, the film naturally explores how Singapore’s 0.01% spend their wealth, featuring a dazzling assemblage of luxury homes, cars — and watches. Filmmaking aside,…
Editor’s note: To celebrate the Aquanaut’s 20th birthday in 2017, Patek Philippe released the enlarged (from 40 to 42.2mm) and quietly in charge Aquanaut ref. 5168G. a watch that remains a reminder of the collection’s youth. In more recent years, the model has struck confident new poses such as the ref 5968A chronograph, with its popping orange personality. But what I think we’re all beginning to appreciate, as time goes on, is the versatility of the Aquanaut. Where big bro, the Nautilus, has an obligation to stay refined to some extent, the younger ’Naut can shift and shake. In size, in colour, in strap, the options are stacking up. It’s an attitude that is appealing to more and more watch lovers, whether already in the Patek Philippe family, or not. The year was 1997, the Spice Girls were busy spicing up life, and Leo was king of the world. It was a great time to be alive, and not just if you were a 13-year-old-girl. Because if you were a fan of stainless steel sports watches, it was also the year Patek Philippe introduced the Aquanaut. Taking its design cues from the casually elegant Nautilus, it was initially released as a slightly more accessible alternative, and aimed…
Editor’s note: No matter how I try, I can’t get the Reverso out of my head, or off my list. One day, the most elusive of wrist-worn eye candy will be mine. But until then, I will keep reading stories like these, building yet more reasons why it must happen. I’m no prop master, but I know when I’d reach for a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso to dress a character’s wrist. It would be when they had a scene in a suit. It would be at a point in their character trajectory where they were at peak confidence, when their outward style is tapping into the classic, the iconic, the timeless. And also when the brand of badass they’re seeking to project is more brains than brawn. You suspect this was precisely the thought process of the art directors and prop masters that did just that with these kings of the screen. Pierce Brosnan. Ah, Pierce. He may have bombed as Bond but the man knows how to work black tie. The key is having an accessory in the mix that pops on the monochrome backdrop, and few accessories can compete with a gold dress watch with white face and black leather…
Editor’s note: Things certainly got cold fast in Melbourne, and we’re busy working out ways to stay warm. And that includes our wrists … The northern parts of the world might be enjoying long, lazy afternoons of relaxation and summer fun, but down here in Australia things have taken a turn for the cooler. So, to help take the chill off, we’ve found four winter warmer timepieces to hold you over until the summer months. Bulgari Octo Roma With its dark caramel dial and rich chestnut strap, Bulgari’s brand new Octo Roma is the watchmaking equivalent of a well-worn Chesterfield, eternally stylish and always comfortable. $5950 USD Sinn 356 Sa Pilot II The dial on this Sinn has to be seen to be believed. The finely guilloched copper dial shifts from brown to pink to orange, depending on the light. While everyone seems to gravitate to Sinn’s more traditional offerings, this little stunner is the sleeper hit. $3740 Ball Engineer III Bronze Star Outside of gold, bronze – with its rich lustre – is the warmest of case materials, so it’s the perfect tonal choice for the cold season. Pair with Harris tweed and something peaty from Scotland. $3595 Oris Aquis…
Editor’s note: Few brands have the way with ceramic that Hublot has. The fusion-focused brand has pumped so much colour into the ultra-hard material that it’s hard to believe. Take the Hublot Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Blue Ceramic for example … When it was announced last year, I thought Hublot’s Orlinski case was one of the freshest, coolest new shapes I’d seen in quite some time. And then they went and released it in blue ceramic and I quietly lost my mind. But before we dive into the blue, let’s have a quick refresher on just what — or who — an Orlinski is. Richard Orlinski is a French contemporary artist, known for his bright, poppy, faceted sculptures. In this partnership, Orlinski has brought his geometric approach to Hublot. Fundamentally, the Orlinski Hublot is a classic fusion — a two register chronograph with a heavily skeletonised dial that’s well-worn territory for the brand. It’s big — 45mm across and 13.40mm high, and powered by the non-Unico HUB1155. From a distance, the case still has that classic Hublot look — brawny shoulders and big bezel. But upon closer inspection, it becomes clear that while the fundamental clay that forms the watch is…
Editor’s note: For years, Bell & Ross has stuck safely to the skies. Then, in 2017, they came for the oceans. And we could not be happier with the switch up. The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver is a smooth evolution of the brand’s famous form … The story in a second: The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver transitions smoothly from the sky to the sea. In the time I spent with the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver I came to think of it as an armoured car. Not the conspicuously bulked-up and blinged-out vehicle beloved by the A-list, instead this diver is more akin to the subtly strengthened Land Cruiser, one that looks significantly like the regular model, but can handle IEDs and assault rifles. To me that’s what this Bell & Ross is — a super tough take on the brand’s famous instrument watch. The case It’s the case that really earned the armoured car analogy. From a quick glance, the BR 03-92 Diver shares the same 42mm steel case, but look closer and you’ll notice that quite a lot has changed to earn that 300-metre water resistance rating. The sapphire crystal is significantly super-sized,…