Simply the best? The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 in steel
Editor’s note: no bells, no whistles. Everything you need and nothing you don’t. It’s the one and only Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 in steel … Forget the fuss about the Sea-Dweller and the palaver over the Sky-Dweller, the real Rolex of 2017 is the Datejust 41 in steel. On the surface, the reasons might not be immediately obvious. After all, the Datejust 41 isn’t new (it was released last year in yellow and Everose Rolesor versions), and its looks are almost the very definition of classic. But despite this — or because of it — we’re confident in predicting that the steel Datejust 41 will be one of their most popular models this year. Let’s step back for just a second. What is a Datejust 41, and where does it fit in the Rolex ecosystem? Well, the second part of the equation, the 41, is simple enough — it refers to the 41mm case size. But the Datejust itself requires a jot more explanation. Originally introduced way back in 1945, the Datejust is a prime example of one of the quiet revolutions that make Rolex the powerhouse it is today. The innovation of the Datejust was that the date ‘jumped’ at…
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These days, “NATO strap” is a catch-all term for any sort of nylon or fabric watch strap. In reality, it’s a little more complex. The use of the term NATO is something of a misappropriation that arose because the ‘original’ fabric strap (20mm, nylon, chrome-plated hardware, in admiralty grey) could be requested using a form relating to its NATO stock number. Hence, the catch-all NATO term was born. Ken Kessler goes into great detail on all this backstory, as well as the more recent chapters in the NATO strap narrative, in this Revolution piece. And as a NATO strap (of many stripes) is my default strap (heck, we even sell them), I found it a fascinating read, and hopefully you will too. Read the whole story over at Revolution.
Editor’s note: Who doesn’t love a good micro brand (we certainly do)? In many ways the little guys have so much more freedom than the big brands, when it comes to design, production (and all the rest). Case in point is the Farer Lander GMT, which we reviewed last year … Having previously reviewed the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla, I thought it was time to explore some more of the British microbrand’s offerings. Enter the Farer Lander GMT Automatic, one of three pieces within Farer’s GMT Automatic range. As I unboxed the Lander, the first thing that grabbed my attention was the dial. Farer describes the colour as ‘sea green’, which, when you think about it, is quite an accurate description. Bursting with colour, the dial has a sunburst-style finishing, meaning the moment you walk outside into the sunlight it takes on a new appearance. This was my favourite feature of the watch and looked great when contrasted with the dark brown strap. There’s a lot of other detail in the dial, which Farer refer to as a ‘triple step dial’. The bold font of the hour numerals features a Super-LumiNova outline, which adds an additional layer of depth and…
I no longer have any desire to own or wear a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711. Not because I like the watch any less than I ever did (it’s a great design, produced by one of the best makers in the business) but because I don’t want to be associated with what it has come to represent. Not “represent” in the sense of its significance (along that of Royal Oak) in the history of modern watchmaking but because it’s the apotheosis of the money-chasing mania (and its flip-side, the status-symbol-chasing mania) that has gripped certain parts of the watch world in the past couple of years. A mania that is ruining things for genuine watch enthusiasts and collectors. I’m talking here about current catalogue models – coming to the secondary market brand new or “very recently” pre-owned, aka flipped. (The vintage market has its own, different story of price/value escalation). It’s a peculiar kind of madness that has brought us to a point where steel sports watches are being listed at 200 per cent of their retail price; steel watches designed as everyday wearers fetching more than their precious metal counterparts. A circa-10-grand GMT Pepsi or Batman – or maybe a…
Editor’s note: The last time the Tudor Pelagos received a significant line extension was the LHD (left hand drive), which debuted in 2016. It’s a great watch — and arguably the ‘hottest’ of the Pelagos variants. But something we can all agree on is that it’s a line that’s well due for some more attention. Tudor, don’t let us down at Baselworld 2020 … Once again, Tudor has surprised and tempted us with a brand new release just before Christmas – the Tudor Pelagos LHD. On the whole it’s the same Pelagos we know and love, with just a few tweaks – but these small changes combine to show the watch in a completely new light. First of all, the case. It’s the same 42mm titanium case we’re used to, with one not-so-minor difference – the crown is on the left, a feature that gives the watch its left-hand drive sobriquet. The inspiration for this unusual configuration comes from the brand’s past. In the 1970s, the Tudor Submariner was the watch of choice for French Naval divers. Some of these were delivered in a left-handed format – perhaps for divers who wore the watch on their right hand, or perhaps simply so the prominent crown…
In 2017, Blancpain released one of the coolest dive watches of the year, the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC, which stood out because of its distinctive spherical moisture indicator on the dial. It’s a watch that owed its existence to a particularly storied watch with a military backstory. The story is set in a post-WWII era, where the conception of war was changing rapidly and dramatically. It was a time of new technologies and new methodologies. Watches were part of this — and dive watches were particularly important. The legendary James Dowling takes a deep dive (excuse the pun) into the world of one particular dive watch, which looms large in the legacy of American military timepieces. Read the full story over at Revolution. 
Editor’s note: Size is one of the prevailing issues in watchland. Too big? Too small? It’s one of those ongoing debates that rages on (and on and on and on). A watch that clocks in at 37mm would typically be seen on the smaller size of this spectrum — so much so that many would discount it on dimensions alone. The Rado Heritage Captain Cook Tradition Mark II proves that you’d be a fool to judge a watch too small on specs alone … Last year, Rado had a breakthrough, heritage-inspired hit with their Captain Cook, a slightly quirky 37mm diver. This year they’ve doubled down on the Captain, with the Mark II, a curvy, funky ’60s-inspired diver. The heritage look is really strong, from the super-polished cushion case, through to the super high crystal and the era-appropriate dial details, like the broad hour markers and internal bezel. Though I think what I like most about this Rado is, funnily enough, the bracelet. So often the bracelet is an afterthought, tacked on at the end. But Rado have clearly thought this one through. It’s a solid-feeling ‘beads-of-rice’ style bracelet, on a single fold clasp with a lovely vintage look. It…
Editor’s note: One of the more interesting Instagram accounts I’ve followed in recent times is @adpatina, dedicated to sourcing (and selling) vintage watch ads. Clearly, I am not alone, as Ad Patina has graduated from Instagram and is now a fully fledged site and store. So, if you ever wanted to know what makes a good watch ad, or just want one to hang on the wall, read on … So, how did you get into vintage watch ads? Ah, it all started when I was a teenager in the mid ’90s … I remember taping Rolex ads to my bedroom wall. The ads weren’t vintage, and, oddly, most of the models advertised weren’t ones I wanted to own. They were just random Rolex ads (I even had Lady Datejust ads pinned up). It was less about the actual watch, more about the brand. You see, I aspired to own a Rolex, and having these ads greet me as I entered my room — looming over my head as I did homework, the last thing I saw before falling asleep — served as a reminder and motivation to get good grades, work hard, stay out of trouble, so one day I’d be in a position to get one.…
Editor’s note: Root beer is a peculiarly American drink, sweet and vaguely medicinal – not at all unappealing but an acquired taste. Can the same be said for the Rolex GMT-Master II in Oystersteel and Everose? Perhaps, but it’s a particular flavour of Rolex that Andrew fell hard for at Basel 2018, and 12 months on, the love is still going strong … In the wee hours of this morning, as I was recording this voice-over, it occurred to me that the only watch from the new Rolex GMT-Master II collection currently not receiving a massive amount of coverage at Basel 2018 was the one in the middle – with both Oystersteel and Everose elements, the two-tone, or as Rolex call it, Rolesor model. It just so happens that, at this point in time, it’s the one I’m most fixated on. I think, without stealing too much of my own thunder, it’s the way that all the colours, finishings, materials, and fine details come together – and play off one another. I’m sure that once the Pepsi sugar high has worn off a little, the glittering Rolex GMT-Master II in Oystersteel and Everose will have its time in the sun, but…
Editor’s note: Sapphire watches, while technically amazing, sometimes run the risk of being a little — um — dull. Mostly because there’s nothing to really look at (what with the clear case and all). That’s certainly not a problem with the (impressively named) Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow which delivers some double action thanks to the colourful bezel and complex movement. There are a lot of things I love about Hublot, and I’ve got to say, this watch manages to cram pretty much all of them (barring ceramic) into one awesome, 45mm package. It’s the Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow, and it does pretty much what it says on the tin. Let’s start with the case. Hublot has been playing with (and seriously democratising) ultra-hard, ultra-slick and ultra-cool synthetic sapphire cases since 2016, and it’s become something of a staple in their higher-end limited editions. For all its transparency, this 45mm wide and 14.25mm thick case has stacks of presence, providing an almost unbearably crisp, sharp silhouette. The incredible wrist presence provides an amazing juxtaposition with the transparent nature of the material. But in a twist that’s exclusive to the Australian and Japanese…