4 reasons why the Cartier Santos makes a great everyday watch
Editor’s note: I don’t know about you, but when I think of everyday watches, I default to round steel sports pieces. Of course, there might be some internalised bias going on here. Because you know what, the Cartier Santos — recently given an all new and improved makeover — is actually a really strong contender for 24/7 duty. Even in its more precious varieties. Don’t believe me? Read on … While you can make an argument for one-watch-per-purpose (a watch for work, weekend, formal occasions, etc), I personally think that versatility is the key to a good watch. Luckily, versatility is something the Cartier Santos has in spades, which you might find surprising given that, on the face of it, the Santos de Cartier is a rectangular watch with a white, Roman-numeralled dial. But this latest watch has been designed with maximum user-friendliness in mind. Not only does the watch come equipped with QuickSwitch and SmartLink systems for changing your strap and resizing your bracelet on the go, each watch also comes with two straps, and is offered in a range of sizes and plenty of case variants. So whether it’s work or play, there’s a Santos for you. In case you still…
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Editor’s note: It takes a special kind of swag to not only get your hands on the hottest watches on the market, but to then decide to do some aftermarket mods on them. If you’ve got that level of swag and lean towards diamonds, you should probably meet Greg Yuna. We chatted to him last year … Once known as ‘Mr Flawless’, Greg Yuna is an entrepreneur and custom jeweller to celebrities like Drake, Floyd Mayweather Jr and Meek Mill. We talk custom watches with Greg, to gain some insight into one of the more controversial parts of the watch industry. How did you get your start customising watches? I started with working for my uncle about eight years ago. From there, I started creating and icing out these watches. Here in NYC, it’s very popular, because of the culture. What’s going on right now is a race to see who can take the biggest, baddest watch and ruin it. Who has the balls to ruin them first, and that’s where I come in. What I try and do is get the most popular, hottest watches, as soon as they come out – and ice them out, to have them…
Vacheron Constantin is famous for its ability to create custom or one-off watches for clients (to learn more about their Les Cabinotiers department, click here). And given the brand’s exceptionally long history, it should come as no surprise that Vacheron Constantin has been making custom pieces for a long time indeed. Phillips is auctioning off one such piece at their Geneva auction, a piece unique from the 1930s known as “Don Pancho”. This watch was the first to feature the combination of minute repeater, calendar and retrograde date, and is, by happy coincidence, undeniably stylish. It’s an interesting auction lot. Because while it has undeniable provenance (it’s been in the same family for the last 70 years), and is historically significant, it’s also sporting a remade dial. The estimate is between 400,000 and 800,000 CHF, but really, it could go anywhere. I guess we’ll find out in May. Find out more at The New York Times.
Editor’s note: Anxious about reference numbers? Confused by Spring Drive? You’re not alone. But don’t worry, we’ve got your back. Here’s a handy video guide to explain the ins and outs of Grand Seiko … I’m sure everyone reading this has, at some point, felt that feeling of utter bewilderment of being in a conversation about watches. The level of technical jargon, slang and verbal shorthand can be confusing at best and exclusionary at worst — it can feel like a club with its very own secret language. And the hardest thing is that the language changes with every brand. Take Grand Seiko, for instance — you have to get your head around reference numbers, specific nomenclature and calibres, not to mention the vast and colourful world of fan-based nicknames. But don’t worry, today we’re here to help you crack the code. If you’ve ever been confused about what makes Grand Seiko so grand, why everyone keeps talking about Snowflakes and Spring Drives, or what a Credor is, watch this video and all will be explained …
Editor’s note: New steel Rolex is almost impossible to find at retail, and pricing on discontinued models is getting prohibitive for mere mortals. One model that’s still a little easier to get (for now) is the Rolex Explorer II 16570 — and even that landscape is changing rapidly. In fact, prices have likely shot up by 20 – 30 per cent since Bruce reviewed it last year … Today’s review of the Rolex Explorer II is a little unusual on several accounts. Most significantly it’s of a watch that’s been discontinued for seven years. Given this fact, Bruce (of BLNR fame) has written a more personal, evocative piece, which makes sense as much ink has already been shed in tribute to the details and intricacies of this particular Rolex Explorer II. Back when I was shopping for my first Rolex, I was offered a ‘new old stock’ Explorer II 16570 by the local boutique at a decent discount. I brushed it off at the time due to a fixation with the Submariner (which ironically ended up as a Datejust) and also the limited knowledge that it was a past model and recently replaced by an improved 216570 in 42mm. Why in…
Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ll probably have realised that podcasts are hot AF RN. And amidst the true crime and soft, NPR-esque tones of highbrow interviewers sits a growing niche of horology-themed pods. Robin Swithinbank (a modern gentleman if ever there was one) asks a selection of the industry’s heavyweights what watch-related audio goodness they fill their ears with on the daily commute. The answers are strong, and bear more than a passing resemblance to my own subscription list. Hodinkee is the obvious choice, but the excellent Blamo! gets some love (remember that time Andy chatted to Jeremy Kirkland?), and the guys at Worn & Wound. So, if you like watches and you listen to pods, there’s likely to be a lot on this list you already know about, but maybe there are also a few new offerings in the mix. Read the story on The New York Times. 
Editor’s note: There are few things I love more than a good hypothetical, and this is a doozy. The rules? $20,000 to spend ONLY on watches that you don’t already own. It’s a surprisingly tricky challenge and, when done right, really makes you hone down what you want in watches. Also, it’s a small enough amount that it prevents any super pie-in-the-sky choices, and keeps things vaguely achievable. This is what the team came up with last year … Late last week, Dan innocently asked a question: “Hey, what watches would you get for $20k?” Let’s just say it opened a can of worms as well as some fast and furious debate. So, in the name of science, posterity and good old-fashioned entertainment, I decided to formalise this challenge. The rules? You have a budget of $20,000 AUD to fill up your fantasy watch box. You can buy as many or as few watches as you like, but you have to spend as close to the budget as possible. Pricing is retail, or market value if the watch is discontinued. And the final kicker? You can’t choose any watches you currently own … because where’s the fun in that? Cam’s awesome…
Editor’s note: We could always tell by the way the Omega Seamaster Railmaster ‘Blue Denim’ used its walk that it walked a fine line between a strong look and something else. The winds of sartorial change have changed direction since it was first released in 2018, with Levi’s recently re-releasing their ‘Engineered’ range, 20 years after it was first introduced in the ’90s. Where does that leave the Omega Seamaster Railmaster ‘Blue Denim’? Well, ‘double denim’ was once a fashion crime. It was a simple dressing rule that would help people avoid ridicule in public. For example, should I wear this denim shirt with jeans? No mam, change it out for cotton. Should I wear this denim jacket with a denim shirt? Not unless you are a real-life cowboy, sir. But fashion is mercurial, and what was once a laughing stock can become legendary in the simple changing of a season. Where does it stand, now? Is it the long-lost link between workwear and watchmaking? The story in a second: Workwear meets watchmaking in Omega’s latest colourful take on the Railmaster. One of last year’s most compelling releases from Omega was the revamped Railmaster. This new take on an old…
In the underwater realm of dive watches, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is an undisputed master. Initially released in 1953, this prototypical dive watch was instrumental in reframing the rules of the game, and defining the modern dive watch. It’s to be expected then that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has been an enduring feature of our horological landscape ever since, being realised in countless different versions over the years. And this is the latest. The big story here is the titanium case: 45mm across, and rated to 300m, but refreshingly lightweight. Into that mix we get the traditional black Fifty Fathoms dial and bezel (with that charming sapphire insert), and silky sunburst dial texture, with Super-LumiNova packed hands and markers. The movement is the Blancpain 1315, with a hefty five days of power and a silicon balance spring. It’s visible through the sapphire caseback. This new titanium take on the Fifty Fathoms offers a strong combination of classic style and contemporary convenience. 
Watch brands love to hang their proverbial hat on the strength and resilience of their timepieces, but oftentimes these claims are just that — claims. Sometimes, though, these slightly-too-tall tales are backed up with hard facts. That’s the case with these five watches here, from Rolex’s deepest of divers (and bonus James Cameron) to Casio’s epically tough G-Shock and Bremont’s high-flyer. All feats of derring-do and destruction are illustrated in eye-wincing detail. Head to Gear Patrol for the wrap-up … if you can handle it.