WHAT SEALED THE DEAL: On Andrew’s TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 CAW211P
When we came up with the concept for ‘what sealed the deal’, it was all about those micro-details and micro-decisions that happen in the final stages of a purchase. Tiny things you can’t get out of your head about a watch. That case shape. Those burnt orange indices that are coloured not by paint, but by oxidisation. Most of the factors that sealed the deal on my TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 were documented in this video below, but there is always more to the story, so here it is. When did you first see/hear about it? This is a weird way to meet a Monaco, but the first one I saw was in the mid-2000s and it was a V4, that wild creation comprised of belts, ceramic balls and magic. Of course, I’d seen them on wrists before that, but it wasn’t until GQ needed a story on the V4 that I properly deep-dived. At that point, to be completely honest, I found it occupied a weird polarised place, with this insanely innovative and amazing (cough, expensive) version and other really retro models that were out of vogue in the mid-2000s. There was certainly nothing as pitch-perfect as the…
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Editor’s note: If I look a little flustered and stiff in this video, it’s because I’m not entirely comfortable when I’m invited to get a lab coat on in a watch manufacture. Too many times, humiliation has followed. I don’t come at watches from a technical perspective, and that’s largely because I don’t have that kind of brain. When I’m asked to reconstruct an escapement, I want to escape, basically. Know thyself, right? While some dignity was restored recently, when I went up against the venerable @fkscholz in a watchmaking challenge 101, I’m unlikely to be buying a set of tools any time soon. I’ll leave that to the experts, like the fine people at Hublot’s headquarters in Nyon, who give us a tour here inside a Hublot tourbillon cage. It’s among the most popular technical videos we’ve ever created, which I’m sure has a lot to do with the magic and the mystery of the tourbillon, not to mention the mastery required to play with them. Hublot have made big strides in recent years to establish watchmaking credibility as a counterweight to its heavy-hitting celebrity power. Regular nominations in various GPHG categories – across womens and mens watches – have been a meaningful…
Editor’s note: We’ve been on a bit of a Bremont trip recently, and while the aviation-based brand is perhaps the UK’s most well known watch brand, they’re not the only one. Last year, Cameron explored some of the other options … There’s a revolution afoot! And it’s taking place on British shores. While the world – admittedly, us included – tends to focus a lot more on watchmaking of the continental kind, the wonderful world of modern watches mightn’t be where it is today without the innovations and inventions brought to us by the British watchmaking industry. In 1755, Thomas Mudge invented the lever escapement; John Harwood introduced automatic winding in 1924, and let’s not forget George Daniels’ invention and 1980 patent of the ingenious co-axial escapement. Well, British watchmaking is back. Thanks largely to bespoke manufacturers, tea-loving microbrands, and the re-emergence of some of the great British brands of days gone by. We’ve put together a list of eight of the best offerings from the land of hope and glory. Keep calm and carry on. Bremont U-2/51-JET Henley-on-Thames-based watch brand Bremont are well regarded for aeronautical designs and their strong ties to the various armed forces and squadrons of…
Editor’s note: I’m wearing a Cocktail Time as I write this. Steel, deep blue dial. It’s a ridiculously great watch. Especially when you consider the asking price. This is why it’s great … If you’re ‘into’ watches, it’s easy to fall into a perception that a higher price naturally equates to higher value and quality. However, Seiko’s colourful and decidedly wallet-friendly Presage Cocktail Time turns these assumptions on their head, with a RRP well south of $1000 and a wrist presence that can compete with watches 10 times the price. Simply put, the Cocktail Time is a winner because it’s fun, and that’s mostly down to the dials. Take that away and you have a well-priced 40mm steel dress watch. Nice, but unremarkable. The Cocktail Time takes classic dressy tropes and turns the fun factor all the way up. There are bright colours, interesting textures, reflections and a dazzling play of light. The only way this watch could be more of a party would be if Seiko popped an actual disco ball on the wrist (I wouldn’t put it past them). And, of course, the cocktail association doesn’t hurt the cause either. Seiko has smartly made the boozy link explicit,…
Editor’s note: Who doesn’t love blue? It’s fun, it’s dressy, and it’s a heck of a lot less boring than black or white. So, here’s that time we wrapped up 15 winners from 2018. Over the next month or so we’re going to be running a series of colour-coded stories, where we focus less on the movements and case details and more on the dials. The brighter and bolder, the better. To kick things off we’ve rounded up a bunch of the best new blue dials because, honestly, who doesn’t love blue? From subtle to shimmering to downright electric, this versatile colour can go from sporty to dressy in the blink of an eye. Seiko Prospex ‘Save the Ocean’ SRPC91K1 Let’s start with a dial that has it all, and at a price that’s hard to beat. Yep, I’m talking about Seiko. Specifically, the latest take on the Turtle — the SRPC91K1, a conservation-oriented piece; a real showstopper of a dial that fades from pale to deep blue, all the while being interspersed with wavy lines, reminiscent of that most magnificent of mammals, the blue whale. $725 Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5740 On the opposite end of the spectrum is…
Editor’s note: Just quietly, the Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic is an incredible amount of watch for the money. Cool dial, modern bells and whistles, and a strong power reserve. And it looks good. This is such a great watch. Honestly. I can’t think of many (if any) Swiss-made watches that offer such a punchy package for this sort of price. Not only do you get the impressive Powermatic 80 movement (more than three days of power reserve rocks) in a good-looking, well-made 300m diver, you get nice little features like the gradient dial and ceramic bezel. So much win. On top of that, it fits great on the wrist: 43mm is big, but not obnoxiously so, especially when paired with the height. Even the dial text and date placement is done right. My only possible quibble is the strap. Not the rubber strap itself, which I quite like — Tissot ‘T’ motif and all — no, it’s the slightly odd 21mm width. Given that I’m the kind of guy who likes chopping and changing straps as often as my mood, the uncommon width is a little bit of a buzzkill. But then, for the price, it’s hard to be too harsh with…
For many, Grand Seiko is synonymous with Snowflake, and for years there was only one Grand Seiko Snowflake to choose. Now, as the prestigious Japanese brand becomes better known in the world, that landscape is changing, with more of those delicate, gorgeous dials making their way across the world. And, in the manner of Vivaldi’s most famous work, we’re breaking it down, four seasons-style. Grand Seiko Snowflake SBGA259 Spring is brought to us courtesy of the SBGA259, which doesn’t deviate too much from the original, but adds a few blossoming buds of colour in the form of gold-tone hands and dial markers. In a contrast that only seems to make the white of the dial even crisper in comparison. $8400 Grand Seiko Snowflake SBGY002 One of the latest additions to the Snowflake family is the one offering a glimpse of golden sunshine — SBGY002. While the allusion to summery warmth is clear in the precious metal case, this slim, manually wound Spring Drive offers a novel new take on the much-loved look. $35,200 Grand Seiko Snowflake SBGA211 In this seasonal breakdown, the original, titanium-cased Snowflake takes the position of autumn. That’s not to say that this watch isn’t a great year-round option, but its…