HANDS-ON: Thin just got complicated with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph
It’s no secret that the Octo Finissimo has been a watch that’s kick-started the heart of Bulgari’s recent string of critical hits. And now the collection has — in addition to the core time-only model, minute repeaters and tourbillons — a chronograph. And not just any chronograph, the world’s thinnest. This watch took Bulgari almost three years to develop (which, in watch terms, is rather quick), and the movement is a slim 3.3mm, shredding a fair bit of width off the previous thinnest – a 4.65mm manually wound movement from Piaget. This movement isn’t just thin — it’s got a peripheral winding rotor and a nicely finished movement. It’s also got a second time zone display at three, which is set in sync with the main hands. Altering local time is a cinch, as hitting the pusher at nine advances the hour hand in one-hour increments. Design-wise, not too much has changed. We’re still looking at that classic sandblasted titanium case — only now with a bit more going on with the dial. I really love just how integrated the faceted pushers are to the case. From a distance you’d struggle to know more. It wears just as well as you’d expect on…
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Editor’s note: The thing I love about Rado is that even when they deliver a seemingly demure, classic round watch, they add a twist. In this case made from the futuristic hybrid alloy Ceramos. It’s definitely a watch to check out in the metal – ummm, Ceramos – to really appreciate. When it comes to materials, it’s hard to beat Rado. The brand is a master of innovative materials. They pioneered ultra-hard metals and ceramics, and continue to push the realms of the possible. The latest is Ceramos, an alloy of ceramic and metal that offers the best of both worlds — the lightness and scratch-resistance of ceramic, paired with the finish and lustre of metal. Here they’ve chosen to deploy Ceramos on the relatively conservative DiaMaster Thinline, a classic two-hander with a date. So, if you like your tradition with a healthy dose of technical, check out the Rado DiaMaster Thinline Ceramos. Rado DiaMaster Thinline Ceramos Australian pricing Rado DiaMaster Thinline Ceramos, $3025
In case you were unaware (how is that rock you’ve been living under?), Baselworld 2019 is nearly upon us. So, while the rest of the team are currently en route to Basel, I’ve planted myself firmly behind each one of my digital detective devices and taken off in search of any and all clues as to what Tudor may soon have in store for us. Putting together this quick list of Tudor’s teasers and making a few speculations as to what I think each one may mean. Editor’s note: When I say speculations, these are absolutely nothing more than my own theories. However, I have tried to make my guesses as educated as possible. The triangle hour marker This was the first teaser posted by Tudor this year, and it seems many (myself included) were quick to guess that Tudor will re-release its Submariner. While it’s certainly a good guess, there isn’t exactly a lot to go on, other than the fact that it’s a triangle-shaped hour marker at what looks to be 9 o’clock. You see, in 1989 – exactly 30 years ago – Tudor revised its Submariner, replacing its Snowflake hands with Mercedes-style hands and switching out its…
Editor’s note: The mighty Calibre 11-powered Monaco turned 50 just a few weeks ago, and what better time, with Baselworld 2019 only hours away, to have a look at one of the defining chronographs of our time. Now, this version here is, no doubt, a stone cold classic. But I’ve got to wonder, what has TAG Heuer cooked up to celebrate the big 5-0? Here’s hoping we find out soon. The story in a second: 2015 saw TAG Heuer release the bold Heuer 01, the smart Carrera Connected and a faithful re-edition of one of the most iconic watches ever made – the Monaco. Heuer made a lot of cool watches, but none more so than the Heuer Monaco. Instantly recognisable, thanks to the large square case, and powered by the legendary Calibre 11 automatic chronograph movement, there’s no doubting the Monaco’s cred. But the frosting on the ice-cool cake is Steve McQueen. The King of Cool was a hot property in the ’60s and ’70s, and the prominent placement of the Heuer Monaco on McQueen’s wrist in the 1971 film Le Mans saw the watch enter the pantheon of totemic objects that have come to symbolise the icon for…
So, this exists. Look, I write about high-end mechanical watches on the daily, so I’ve got a pretty high threshold for the superfluous things in life, but this is just ridiculous. A company called Caviar (of course they’re called Caviar) has revolutionised the world of both watchmaking and iPhones by releasing (and I quote): “the first iPhone with a Tourbillon”. Now, when I first read the press release I thought it was an iPhone case with tourbillon, which, I mean, isn’t the worst. Tourbillons are cool and if you want to spend more money than is sensible on a case … hey, it’s your money. But, no. They’ve Dr Moreau’d this thing and given us the worst of both worlds. Starting from $8350 USD. Nope.
In these days of globalised production and democratised design it seems like there are more micro watch brands than ever before and, really, most of them are pretty forgettable, all riffing from the same songbook/factory catalogue. So when something a little left of centre shows up, I tend to pay attention. The Ianos Avyssos is one such watch. On the surface it’s a dive watch, rated to 300 metres, with the bezel, lume and other bits and bobs you associate with the genre. But pretty quickly you work out that it’s the other elements that separate this watch from the pack. In case the name didn’t give the game away, the Ianos Avyssos is a watch of Greek origin, and the brainchild of Jacob Hatzidimitriou. But the Hellenic inspirations of this piece go beyond the name, and well, to the small seconds at six. Rather than a typical hand, there’s a rotating disc that, if you’re an aficionado of archaeology or ancient horology, might look familiar. The design is based on the Antikythera mechanism — the world’s oldest clock mechanism that dates back to around 100 BCE. The mechanism was discovered off the coast of Antikythera in 1901 (hence the name),…
Editor’s note: For some reason, the days before Baselworld always fire up my acquisitive tendencies, however hypothetical. And when it comes to hypotheticals, for watch fans they don’t come much greater than this. One watch. For ever. That’s the question I asked the team last year, and this is what they said … Let me be clear from the outset, this is a ridiculous challenge. It’s clearly hypothetical and I’m pretty sure none of us has any plans to sell our collections and follow through with this. But having said that, it’s a perennial watch party favourite, and can be pretty fun. It’s also a useful challenge for distilling just what it is you like about watches – it’s like mindfulness for watch nerds. Dan’s pick – A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Striking Time My one watch is also my Grail watch. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Striking Time. It’s robust enough for everyday wear yet horologically significant to make a statement. I would choose the white gold with black dial version as my preference. I may be forced to have this as my ‘only watch’ regardless – as I’d have to sell or trade everything I own (along with…
Last year I had the pleasure of reviewing the Ghost Explorer, a contemporarily styled sports watch from Australian-based Creux Automatiq. It was a surprisingly sophisticated and solid piece of kit, so when I saw posts of their forthcoming line, the Diamondback, I was keen to get my hands on one. Fast forward to me opening a DHL package, and unboxing the Diamondback CA-08, and I immediately noticed a few significant differences on this watch from its predecessor – most notably a smaller case size, solid dial and a brand new bracelet. It’s two changes that go a long way to changing the overall look and feel of the watch, while still in line with the brand’s overall aesthetic. According to the brand, the Diamondback name owes to inspiration from the venomous reptile of the same name but, just quietly, I think it’s got more to do with sounding cool and neatly echoing the recurring diamond motif on the watch. And while there are a few colourways of Diamondback on offer, this green and gold version is, for me, the clear winner. The diamond detail on the dial is very cool, and creates a complex look that pairs well with the lume-filled…
Seriously, what better way to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the moon landing than with a traditional gift of gold. And a very special type of 18k gold at that, but a little more on that later. Omega has just dropped its most anticipated release of the year, the Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition. And I’ve got to say, while I knew something special was coming, my jaw dropped when I saw the news. First, a quick history lesson. On the 20th of July 1969, Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin became the first humans to walk on the surface of the moon. Leaving their defining footprints in not just the lunar dust but also in the history books. As I’m sure most of you are already aware, during this momentous achievement, Buzz Aldrin was wearing the Omega Speedmaster on his wrist – a reference ST105.012 for those of you playing at home. Marking an incredible moment in time, particularly for the Swiss watch brand with the legacy of the Omega Moonwatch taking flight. However, this brand new limited edition sees its inspiration taken from another equally as cool reference. Omega have re-created one of the most widely…
The ongoing creative collaboration between Hublot and Ferrari is now in its seventh year, and it doesn’t look like it’s running out of gas any time soon, if the latest offering is any indication. We’re talking about the Big Bang Ferrari Magic Gold. The defining feature of this edition of 250 watches is the sporty chassis in Magic Gold. This 45mm case was reworked last year by Hublot and Ferrari’s design team to create a sleeker look, with those case-hugging chrono pushers and cowl-like crown placement. And while the refreshed case is pretty noteworthy, it’s the Magic Gold that still wows. The perennial appeal of this precious metal is undeniable, but traditionally, it’s come at a cost. Gold is soft, prone to scratching and wear that dims the allure somewhat. In 2012, Hublot found a way around this — thanks to the wizardry of a partnership with the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (EPFL), a new super-hard alloy was formed, called Magic Gold. This alloy boasts a hardness of around 1000 Vickers (compared to 400 for 18-carat gold), and means that the watch is virtually impervious to day-to-day marks. It’s a high-tech luxury that’s entirely appropriate for a Hublot X Ferrari…