HANDS-ON: The Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue – the rebel Rolex
Even though many look to Rolex as a steadfast, unchanging bastion of the watch world, there are some definite outliers in the field. Bejewelled GMT-Masters, leopard Daytonas (which have now given way to unobtainium rainbow Daytona). These models are so uncommon and special that they do not really skew the public’s view of Rolex as a manufacturer of all-business timepieces. The Rolex Milgauss aims to offer a moment of madness to everyday watch wearers. For years it has been known as the scientist’s watch due to its inherent ability to withstand strong magnetic forces. This is beneficial to absolutely everyone working at CERN and pretty much no one else, but hey, when was the last time you took your Submariner to 300m below the sea? I’m not going to delve into too many technical details but the internal build is as impressive as any other professional watch from this company. The 3131 movement is a familiar workhorse replete with the trademark Parachrom blu hairspring and that strong magnetic shield which lends the Milgauss its purpose in life. So it is another over-engineered tool watch and status symbol? Don’t be so quick to jump to that conclusion as the Milgauss blazes its own trail…
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Thanks to some last-minute magic, I found myself pointed towards Miami for some much-needed warmth and the slew of watch industry shenanigans that was Watches & Wonders Miami. Having missed SIHH this year due to unfortunate timing, this was the prime opportunity to get hands-on with the watches that were launched at the fair. Beyond that, I’ve always found there to be something special about the Miami vibe, and the watch culture and buying habits it brings out. With that on my mind, I rolled into the Hublot boutique in the Miami Design District (where all the W&W chaos was underway) for a look at some quintessentially Miami releases from the brand. In the US, Miami is a huge market for Hublot. Much like Las Vegas, a combination of wealthy visitors, and the expressive “No Fs Given” mindset of the majority in the area with money to burn, means that being low-key or stealthy is exceptionally uncommon. This isn’t a criticism in the least, as in many ways it’s a refreshing opposition to the cultural stereotypes found in Beverly Hills and West Los Angeles. LA and Beverly Hills can be flashy, but there the resounding sentiment is of sizing one…
The brief was to write a range of things you’re looking forward to seeing at Baselworld. And yes, I’m looking forward to the new Milgauss as much as anyone, and, like Felix, I want to see some hot hot heat in the 5-10k price point, as well as — like Sandra wished — a regular production Zenith Defy Lab (sweet lord, we really need something new to talk about from a movement POV). But, really, this year’s Basel is going to be like catching up with a mate who’s been through a catastrophic divorce that’s cleaned him out to the tune of 50 mill. Man, am I excited. And it’s all about one thing. The floor plan, baby. Expect to see: A whole new ballgame (and floor plan) Me and old mate Felix have been to Basel a good few times now. And if you played a twisted game of Pin the Tail on the Patek booth, then spin three times and pin one on the first floor of the Omega booth, where we like to convene before our product presentation, we’d be okay. And lastly, for laughs, spin us counterclockwise and meet me for a Louis Roederer in the Jaquet Droz…
Walking into Bremont’s brand new Melbourne boutique, it doesn’t take long to work out the brand’s military and aviation connection. If the spartan style of the watches didn’t give the game away, the pictures of planes on the walls, the hanging model biplane, and the actual, very battered looking ejection seat sitting front-and-centre kind of give it away. Not that all those fine details were too easy to spot last night, as the space was packed with people who either loved the brand or were keen to find out more. And amongst the brand’s most die-hard fans are the people who actually fly, and live the brand image, many of them military pilots. From the earliest days of the brand, Bremont has had a strong involvement with the military, doing custom pieces for members of the armed forces. These were the uber-cool, ultra-rare watches I tracked down last night and, boy, did I spot some good ones. Bremont’s tagline is ‘tested beyond endurance’, and this watch proves the point. It was made for a RAAF EA-18G Growler — an advanced electronic warfare fighter — that took part in exercises with the US Air Force in Nevada. Except this plane didn’t make it…
On the off chance that you’re not, Ulysse Nardin is a brand you should be paying attention to. There’s a real energy around the Le Locle-based manufacture – all the burners are firing. And while one of the brand’s most discussed 2019 releases – the exquisitely painted sexy mermaid pieces of the Classico Manara series — is *too rude* for T+T, there’s still plenty of other, less X-rated horology to discuss. Like the new Freak X, a technically toned down take on their iconic rebel that still delivers high impact with less of a hit to the hip pocket. And then there’s the Skeleton X, a modern skeletonised piece that’s technical and cool, especially in the Carbonium case. Finally, if you’re after something a little more everyday and tool-like, there’s a stylish new diver, which offers enough twists on the classic genre to make it worth a second (and third) look. As recently as a few years ago it seemed like Ulysse Nardin was all at sea, but 2019’s tight, focused collection proves the brand is full steam ahead and ready for anything. 
As far as high-comps departments go, Jaeger-LeCoultre is right up in the most rarefied air of exhilarating places to be for a young watchmaker. But first, how to get there? What traits and qualities does JLC look for in the process of hiring the best and brightest new watchmakers? Stéphane Belmont, Director of Heritage and Rare Pieces, explains what it takes. What skills do you look for in the technicians who will work in the high complications department? There is not one type. We have very different personalities who work in this department – the diversity of the people is key to achieve those complications because you need people who are very quick to capture an idea and begin to engage their skills. They will find the solution as a team almost right away. The attitude is, “Ah yeah, I think I can do it.” They are very intuitive and they feel like they will find a solution. You also need other people, who are much more settled, that will then, from the time of this first idea, very carefully develop every single part, check that everything can work and do the real hard work of developing the watch. At…
Over the years I’ve had a few run-ins with UK-based brand Christopher Ward, having reviewed some of their older world time and jump hour watches. I’ve never tried one of their more mainline pieces on for size though, but when I saw the press renders for the C65 Trident Automatic I figured it was about time I changed that. The C65 Trident is an attractive piece, a neo-vintage diver that offers a strong blend of today’s practicality and yesterday’s charm. Clocking in at a decent 41mm across, and 11.5mm high, this stylish steel chap is offered in either blue or black dials, with a range of straps. The boldest, and vintagest (is that a word? It is now) option is the blue dial on this ‘vintage oak’ distressed leather strap. The brown, almost saffron, leather strap is a good tonal match for the creamy luminova on the hands and hour plots, and provides a warm contrast to that finely grained blue dial. The bezel has a matching blue aluminium insert. The crown isn’t a screw-down, but the gaskets must be pretty solid, as it’s rated to 150 metres. Now, the C65 isn’t a new addition to the Christopher Ward family…
Visiting the team at H. Moser & Cie. is always one of the highlights of SIHH. You never quite know what you’re going to get. Well, that’s not quite true. You know you’re going to be in for some surprises. And seeing Moser at SIHH 2019 did not disappoint. We knew about the Nature Watch, and that statement piece (literally, it was all about the statement of the watch industry’s environmental obligations) did not disappoint in real life (again, literally). Another high-level statement that impressed in real life was the exceptionally minimal Swiss Alp Concept Black — I just shudder to think about setting the time. Really, though, the watches that excited me were the more commercially oriented pieces, like the Pioneer with its ruggedised take on the tourbillon, and the (as always) exceptional dial on the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon, which certainly lives up to its name. 
With the new Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel, Jaeger-LeCoultre has pulled off quite a feat: it has transformed a quietly beautiful and discreetly elegant design into a take-your-breath-away showstopper. And it has done so without losing even a milligram of the class and refinement that has defined the model since it was first introduced in 2012. While JLC has added a variety of dial colours and finishes to the collection over the years, this new dial takes it to another level, showcasing the Maison’s mastery of guillochage, enamelling and engraving. It’s unlike any guilloché-enamel dial I’ve seen before. (The technique of applying coloured, translucent enamel over guilloché engraving is called flinqué – or, in Japan, Shippo.) Usually, when these two crafts are combined, the engraving is delicate and reveals itself fully only when the light hits the dial at certain angles. But here, the sunray pattern is highly pronounced, with the ‘rays’ cut extra-deep and wide, so they appear almost faceted and make the dial dance and sparkle in the light as you move your wrist. The vivid colour of the enamel adds even more impact. Oddly, Jaeger-LeCoultre describes it as “a deep, intense midnight blue”, which is well off…