LIST: 6 things I want (and hope) to see at Baselworld 2019

I don’t want to sound too hyperbolic, but Baselworld 2019 will be make or break. The once grand fair has been navigating turbulent waters for a while now, and last year’s mass exodus by Swatch Group brands ripped a hole in the hull that almost sunk it. This year’s fair will be smaller again, and whether or not the organising body has done enough to keep remaining exhibitors happy remains to be seen. It will also be an interesting year for watch releases. Brands are increasingly favouring a drip-feed of digital drops rather than the Baselworld grand reveal, and we’re also seeing a focus on safe, commercial releases. So, interesting times ahead. With that in mind, here are three things I’m expecting to see, and three things I’m hoping to see at Baselworld 2019, in a few short weeks. Expect to see: More Nanograph action from TAG Heuer Seeing the Nanograph Tourbillon in Geneva in January was one of my highlights. It’s a genuinely cool innovation, and an exciting alternative to silicon. I’m not sure if they’ll be ready (yet) to announce more models packing the tech, but I certainly hope so. Expect to see: More smaller sizes Diameters are…

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7 years ago

INTRODUCING: Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic

In the last few years, skeletonised watches have undergone a renaissance. Once overly designed and overwrought, at some point this distinctive genre segued from niche to very nice indeed. And Jaquet Droz’s Skelet-One is a great example of this new breed. Clean and simple, rather than ornate, is the name of the game for this less-is-more take on the classic Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde figure-eight dial layout. Last year we had a look at the Skelet-One in gold, and now they’ve added a dose of ceramic to the mix. And honestly, I think this is the way to go. What better way to accent the modern skeleton aesthetic and that sapphire subdial than with a modern black ceramic case? As far as tech specs go, this new Skelet-One Ceramic is 41.5mm across, which is a decent size, and it must be incredibly light on the wrist. The 2663 SQ movement is automatic, with a fully skeletonised white gold rotor ensuring your clear view isn’t obstructed. Also ensuring optimal viewing of the technical movement is the glass box sapphire sandwich. A blue sailcloth strap completes the contemporary feeling package. This is a cool, minty fresh move from Jaquet Droz, and we…

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7 years ago

EDITOR’S PICK: Happy Valentine’s Day, you’re dumped. That time our intern broke up with Swiss watchmaking

It’s a romantic day, and we’re hoping it’s all roses for you, but let’s not forget, love can be a bitch. And two years ago, in a memorable rant, our intern Elise announced to us that she was losing interest in Swiss watchmaking. She was more into the Germans. The Japanese. Because it was February, we decided to commemorate that day, and ask deeper questions about why the relationship had gone bad. It’s a bit of fun for Valentine’s Day, please consume whimsically. (And for those trying to snoop, we’re pretty sure Elise was wearing a gold Bell & Ross this day, classy girl she is.)  

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7 years ago

LIST: 3 Santos models from the new Cartier collection explained by Cartier

Marie-Laure Cérède, creative director of watchmaking at Cartier, is our eloquent tour guide for the 2019 Cartier collection, with a focus on the new faces and physiques of the Santos family. The 2019 Santos-Dumont T+T: What is the logic behind the new quartz movement-powered and smaller-sized Santos-Dumont? MLC: Since we relaunched the Santos last year we have a new generation of Santos lovers, and we wanted the Santos-Dumont to also address the expectation of the new generation. For me, it really completes the family. You have the style and the quality of the higher range, but you have a new price point too, of 2900 (EU). It is a new quartz movement with an autonomy of six years, twice the standard of the traditional one. When we created the Santos-Dumont we wanted it to be the first watch, especially for this young generation. It’s an access to the brand and an access to the Santos family. I think it has the same values as the millennials. It’s very thin, it’s smooth, it has the trend of vintage pieces and I am convinced now that people are looking for something different. Maybe they will not start their journey with a round…

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7 years ago

EDITOR’S PICK: Only the toughest – 6 awesomely over-designed watches

Editor’s note: First of all, let me state that Cam nailed this list. He’s pulled a bunch of bangers out of left field, and they’re all very much fit for purpose. They’re also surprisingly colourful and, it must be said, far tougher than you really need.  There are watches that are tough, and then there are watches so tough that they’re guaranteed to survive in even the most extreme environments, even if you wouldn’t. We’re talking over-engineering to the point where no man has been before. Watches that can take on the most dangerous of adventures, that push far beyond the limits of the human body’s capabilities, and yet come out the other side completely intact. Here are six over-designed watches that were built for the extremes. Note: This list is not exhaustive. I could have included multiple watches from a handful of brands – special mention to the Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project – or filled it full of G-Shocks and Sinns. But instead I chose to list away in the name of diversity. Now back to your scheduled reading. Bremont Endurance Polar explorer Ben Saunders is not like the rest of us. The first person to complete solo ski…

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7 years ago

INTRODUCING: Love is in the air – Blancpain’s Villeret Women Quantième Phases de Lune

If the increasingly frantic targeted ads in my Instagram feed for fancy underwear and/or chocolate are anything to go by, Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. Well, if you’re reading this and have left your extravagant-show-of-affection-giftstravaganza run a little late, don’t worry. We — or rather Blancpain — have your back. Say hello to the Blancpain Villeret Valentine Women Quantième Phases de Lune, a delightful limited edition made with Valentine’s Day in mind. Of course, there’s the expected mix of mother-of-pearl dial and liberal sprinkling of sparkly stones in the 33mm red gold case, but what really elevates this from regular fancy women’s watch to lust-worthy Valentine’s Day gift are the little touches. Sure, there’s a passionate red-strap option, but look closer and you’ll see the tip of the pointer date has skewered (much like Cupid’s arrow) a plump red heart. Speaking of arrows, the seconds hand is actually shaped like one. And then there’s the moon, which is sporting a little beauty spot, a très cute touch. Finally, the golden rotor continues the Cupid motif. All told, this is a delightful package, and one that leaves a dozen long-stemmed roses in the dust. It’s also something of a…

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7 years ago

HANDS-ON: Glashütte Original go all out with their contemporary Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar

As far as complications go, perpetual calendars are typically classically styled, verging on the stuffy, depending on how well they’re done. Not that there’s anything fundamentally wrong with this – after all, fine watchmaking thrives on tradition. But I can understand the desire to shake things up a little, and throw down some contemporary styles, which is exactly what Glashütte Original have done with this limited edition take on their Senator Excellence PC. Fundamentally, this watch is the same as the ‘regular’ model, a nicely sized 42mm model, with a big panorama date at four (hence the name), moon at seven, and day/month and leap year indicator across the top of the dial. Where things start spicing up is how the dial (or lack thereof) has been rendered. The centre of the dial is open-worked, letting the finely guilloched mainplate shine through, framed by the matt black section, which frames all the functionality and leaves some space for branding. It’s a cool look, and one that’s in the brand’s wheelhouse, with a look that’s reminiscent of the PanoInverse. You get a hint of the inner workings, with the odd pinion and ruby poking out, but it’s also not fully open-worked…

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7 years ago

VIDEO: 3 standout Submersibles from Panerai’s SIHH 2019 collection

If you had any doubts about Panerai’s position as kings of the deep, their SIHH 2019 release catalogue would have dispelled them. Panerai’s hero watch is, of course, the Submersible. It’s one of the brand’s most interesting designs, as it honours their historically important case shape (cushiony, with a fairly famous crown guard), while adding a very handy bezel and some more contemporary lines. This year sees Panerai tweak a few more details, playing more with smaller sizes and interesting case materials. Here are our top picks. Panerai Submersible Carbotech 42mm – PAM00960 Carbotech is, without a doubt, a cool material, and you know what, it’s still just as cool in a smaller 42mm case. Panerai Submersible 42mm – PAM00959 This is a more classical Panerai execution, with its steel case. But even here there’s something quite special — the pebbly, grainy grey dial that somehow reminds me of shark skin. Panerai Submersible BMG-Tech 47mm – PAM00799 Just quietly, this might be my pick of the bunch. It’s big, and it’s also very complex. Not only is the bezel Carbotech, but the case is made from Panerai’s fancy BMG-Tech material. And that makes for a pretty awesome combo.

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7 years ago

EDITOR’S PICK: Spending a year with the Rolex Submariner 116610LV – AKA ‘The Hulk’

Editor’s note: In the second part of our year-long reviews, Andy tells us what it’s like to Hulk out for a year. Sun’s getting real low … Swiping the debit card on this purchase wasn’t an easy decision. Being someone constantly surrounded by watches, I was more than aware of the endless list of great options within this price bracket. Now, don’t get me wrong, there were some very big temptations along the way, but a Rolex was something I’d been working towards for a little while, and just over a year ago, the time was right. Wearability has always been my number one criteria when purchasing a watch, so for me, a Submariner felt like the right choice. It ticked all the usual boxes in terms of functionality – but there was a specific reference that I’d been heavily flirting with. As much as I love the traditional black bezel Submariner, when put side-by-side with the green, it felt a little too safe for my liking. The green Sub, on the other hand, is one of the most ‘daring’ designs released by Rolex in their current collection, and of course – it shared my last name! My first impression…

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7 years ago

EDITOR’S PICK: Spending a year with the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 ‘Grey Phantom’ 

Editor’s note: Typically, the watches we review are in our possession for a few days or, maybe if we’re lucky, a few weeks. Sometimes the relationship lasts a little longer than that. Today we’re going to revisit two reviews that were a year in the making. Kicking off with my TAG Heuer … For those who know me and my taste in watches a little bit, the fact that I own a TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 typically comes as a bit of a surprise, as there’s a perception that I like the simpler, smaller things in watch life. For those who know me and my history in watches a little better, the fact that I’m rocking a big, bold, skeletonised chronograph raises no eyebrows at all. But personal preferences aside, if you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to spend some quality time with the Heuer 01, you’ve come to the right place. My first impression was … whoa, that’s a whole lot of watch. I first saw the Heuer 01 when it was released, back in 2015. It was a watch that was presented as the face of Jean-Claude Biver’s ‘new’ TAG Heuer, and, boy, did it look the part.…

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7 years ago