INTRODUCING: Panerai’s new America’s Cup partnership and the stealthy Submersible Luna Rossa
2019 is shaping up to be the year of the Submersible for Panerai, with the brand hitting hard with a collection full of their most modern takes on the dive watch. And one of the coolest is the Submersible Luna Rossa, a very cool carbon fibre number made to honour their brand new partnership with the 36th America’s Cup challenger of record, team Luna Rossa, and their AC75. The first watch in this partnership is a 47mm large Carbotech case, and the material takes on a completely different, much more stealthy characteristic here than on the previous Carbotech model, thanks to the complementary dial and rubber strap. The dial is quite interesting too, a textured black that is literally textured, given that pieces of the sail of the Luna Rossa have been applied to it. On top of that, there’s a GMT, one of the few flashes of colour in this otherwise monochromatic landscape (the other is the small seconds at nine). The movement, hidden behind a titanium back engraved with the boat, is the P.9010 Manufacture movement. The complete package is rated to 30 bar.
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Feelings. We all have them. They make us human. They make us who we are. But sometimes they can get the better of us. Like, remember when Tudor released the Black Bay chronograph? Boy, that seemed controversial at the time. And then there was the new Rolex Air-King. Holy smokes! Who could forget all this madness? Neither, however, has caused quite the unholy shitstorm of hurt feelings like the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59, released officially last night at 8pm Geneva time, from whence we lay our scene. We thought it would be appropriate, as a sign of our care and respect for you all – and for once we have unanimity across the broad church that is Time+Tide, so we can speak to you as one – that we suggest some calming techniques. We don’t want to lose anyone over this, so please, try one or several of the following to regain control. If symptoms persist, and you find yourself compulsively commenting on all possible threads about the subject, either see a doctor or remind yourself it’s just a watch. 1. TAKE A FUCKING CHILL PILL Not figuratively, literally. There is a vitamin called a chill pill, and it might be a…
It’s one sleep to SIHH, and the watch releases are coming thick and fast, with many of the exhibiting brands giving us a peek at some of their highlight releases. And while some pieces have raised a little more than eyebrows (hello AP!), I’ve got a feeling that for many brands, the best is yet to come. So here is my lightning fast list of what I’m eagerly anticipating (and hoping to see) at SIHH 2019. Audemars Piguet Yep. Code 11.59 is, for better or worse, the talk of SIHH even before the doors are open. And while it’s an unexpected move, I’m going to reserve judgement until I see them IRL. Jaeger-LeCoultre Last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre surprised many with its pivot to the sporty Polaris. And while their teaser campaign suggests something highly complicated, I’m kind of jonesing for some hot new takes on the Polaris (Polar dial Polaris, anyone?) Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Constantin are always one of the technical highlights of the show. Few brands can blend artistry and exceptionally technical engineering quite so impressively. And the word on the street is that this year’s highlight is going to be BIG. Baume & Mercier To my mind, Baume &…
Rado isn’t a brand that you typically think of when you think about ‘heritage’. On the one hand this makes perfect sense, as the brand is best known for their decidedly modern materials and avant-garde designs. But on the other, Rado has been around for a while (since 1917), and has a host of great old styles to draw on. And, in recent years, Rado has been more active in doing just that, and we’ve picked our favourites. Naturally, the Captain Cook looms large, in both its faithful — near facsimile grade — models, as well as the larger, more modern interpretations. And then there’s the super chunky, super funky HyperChrome 1616, a really cool take on a cushion case. If these watches prove anything it’s that Rado has what it takes to make a heritage release that holds up with the best of them, and we can’t wait to see what 2019 brings.
Editor’s note: My love (indeed the collective T+T love) for Grand Seiko is very real. There’s no denying the quality, care and craftsmanship that goes into these watches that (still) manage to be one of the better kept secrets of fine watches. There’s also no denying that the world of GS can be a little, um, esoteric. So if you need a little explainer, or even a refresher, this one’s for you. I’m sure everyone reading this has, at some point, felt that feeling of utter bewilderment of being in a conversation about watches. The level of technical jargon, slang and verbal shorthand can be confusing at best and exclusionary at worst — it can feel like a club with its very own secret language. And the hardest thing is that the language changes with every brand. Take Grand Seiko, for instance — you have to get your head around reference numbers, specific nomenclature and calibres, not to mention the vast and colourful world of fan-based nicknames. But don’t worry, today we’re here to help you crack the code. If you’ve ever been confused about what makes Grand Seiko so grand, why everyone keeps talking about Snowflakes and Spring Drives, or…
I’m flying off to Geneva tomorrow, for the watchstravaganza that is SIHH. And on my wrist, as I step onto the plane, will be Montblanc’s latest generation smartwatch, the Summit 2. Now, Swiss brands have been trying their luck at smartwatches for some time now, with the two biggest players in the space being Montblanc and TAG Heuer. And while the first generation of these Silicon Valley X Swiss connected devices demonstrated the steep learning curves and technical limitations of the genre, we’ve come a long way in a few short years. I tried the original Summit, and I’ve got to say, the Summit 2 is better in (nearly) every way. Smaller, faster, stronger, smarter. I’ll get to that *nearly* in a bit. Firstly, the case. It follows the same basic form as its predecessor, a chunky, 1858-esque design with an onion-shaped crown. Only here they’ve now flanked it with two programmable chrono-style pushers. The other major difference is that it’s smaller, significantly so — 42mm, down from a whopping 46mm. And while the screen is a little smaller, in this significantly refined package I do not mind one little bit. This watch is completely wearable. And while the form…
Editor’s note: It might be hard to believe, but Bremont’s signature Townhouse event is just around the corner, and this realisation got us thinking about one of the coolest Bremont releases of last year, the new, and very fresh looking Supermarine Type S301. I wonder if we’ll see any interesting extensions to the line this year … Bremont is a brand fuelled by avgas and the spirit of Icarus. The fledgling British brand has their roots in the sky, as it were. But that doesn’t mean that they’ve neglected other spheres of influence, including motorsports and, as we can see here, diving. The Supermarine (even their dive watches have an aviation tie-in) first entered the catalogue in 2010, in the form of the Supermarine 500, a large 43mm steel piece with a distinctive ‘crown-at-two’ case design. This year the Supermarine has evolved, with several new references joining the family — the S300 and the S301. These divers — while still having plenty of Bremont DNA, such as the Trip-Tick case — are much more traditional. They’re smaller, at 40mm across, and slimmer, with a 13mm height. And if the proportions are constrained, so too is the style. The S301 plays…
By lore, a watch should not be worn with formal attire; you’re at a sophisticated evening and that is where your attention should remain. But who doesn’t love breaking the rules? Smart casual – TAG Heuer Autavia In the clothing world, smart casual is tough. In the watch world however, a sports watch hits this dress code every time. When it comes to the Autavia there’s no need to overthink the suit options, apart from whether your cuff width can fit it; otherwise you may have to roll up your sleeves, which, if worn on a casual Friday, might just be the look that you’re after. Formalwear – Seiko Presage SPB069, ‘Moonlit night’ The deep navy enamel face of the ‘Moonlit Night’ is paired here with the rich blue velvet of the dinner jacket. It’s not always necessary to match outfit and watch exactly, but in this case it works beautifully. Businesswear – Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic The beauty of grey when it comes to watches is that you can rotate your staple suit colours – navy, black and charcoal – along with many other patterns and it will always look sharp. The bright pops of blue in the hands…
I’ve been saying for a while now that Chanel are a force to watch when it comes to serious watchmaking. Their recent high-end movements are impressive, to say the least. They’re already investors in Romain Gauthier, and — more recently — F.P. Journe. The latest step in Chanel’s increasing in-house journey is their acquisition of a 20 per cent stake in Kenissi Manufacture. If you’re not familiar with Kenissi, that’s OK, as they’re a fairly new player, currently based in Geneva but moving to a Le Locle facility in 2021. Where things get interesting is the fact that Kenissi is, as reported by Le Temps, the industrial arm of Tudor. This joint investment is centred around the Le Locle facility called the “Gemini Project”, which, according to Le Temps, will be a 150-metre long plant divided into dedicated spaces for Tudor and Kenissi. Chanel have stated that their first watch powered by a Kenissi movement will be released at Baselworld 2019. Given the relationship with Tudor, we surmise that the movement might be more industrial and entry-level than Chanel’s previous in-house offerings, but that remains to be seen.
The dust (and hangovers) have settled on the 76th Golden Globes, and on some corners of the internet it seems that the pre-show press pack hustle is a bigger event than the awards themselves. And, given the intense competition from brands in this Instagram age to have that red carpet moment, it’s easy to see why. And while tuxedos and dresses receive the lion’s share of the attention, the wrists are fiercely fought over as well, with Richemont stable brands, such as IWC, Cartier, Montblanc and Jaeger-LeCoultre, particularly well represented. Rami Malek, who won for his turn as Queen frontman Freddie Mercury in Bohemian Rhapsody, played the elegance card perfectly, pairing his Givenchy tuxedo with Cartier cufflinks and a Tank MC watch. But getting the watch on the wrist is only half the battle — you’ve also got to make sure the watch is seen, which is where the stylist comes to the fore. This article from The Hollywood Reporter goes through a few of the common tricks to ensure maximum timepiece visibility …