HANDS-ON: Chanel’s Code Coco – a fashion watch that’s so much more than a fashion watch
As someone whose love of watches is focused entirely on mechanisms powered by springs, the word quartz normally evokes the immediate cry of “Next!” So when I stop and spend time with a quartz watch, it must be a bit special. And so to Code Coco. It had me at first glance: that crisp, chic and utterly modern design. Strong, straight lines, no colour. Just a broad band of glossy black with a touch of polished steel and a taut line of diamonds – the bracelet and dial flowing seamlessly into one another. Watch or jewellery? It didn’t really matter. It was a beautiful thing and it had me instinctively reaching to pick it up and put it on my wrist. And once there, those little cubes of ceramic that form the bracelet draped around my wrist so fluidly that it could have been a ribbon. It’s not quite the other-worldly feeling of Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo titanium bracelet (nothing could be), but it comes close. Very close. And believe me, that’s almost off the scale in bracelet-praise terms. Add to that, the light weight and high scratch-resistance of Chanel’s best-in-class ceramic (a pioneer in its use for watches, it has…
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It goes without saying really, Raymond Weil have a penchant for the melodious methods. Releasing scores of limited-edition pieces that pay tribute to all things musical – from Gibson guitars and Marshall amps, to Aussie rockers AC/DC and Ol’ Blue Eyes, Mr Frank Sinatra. The latest note in their sonata of releases revisits a collection the family-owned Swiss-made brand first introduced in the early 1990s, taking you to the opera and drawing its inspiration and name from Richard Wagner’s famed oeuvre, Parsifal. Designed for the everyday, with just the right amount of dressy appeal, Raymond Weil’s latest sees the Parsifal collection’s key design elements refined with a contemporary touch, with its curved outlines and unique cross link bracelet updated subtly and reflecting the model’s recognisable aesthetic. As does the stainless-steel case with its characteristic gadroon bezel. For that classic two-tone look, the bezel is also available with a yellow gold PVD plating that is mirrored on the central links of the bracelet as well as on the inner crown guards and on the dial’s Roman numeral hour markers. An embellishing of blue lacquer on the crown then gives each version of the Parsifal a subtle pop of colour, which can…
There’s a lot of options in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Polaris collection. But I think this one might be my favourite, the Polaris Date. It’s a choice purists might find a little weird. After all, this is an uncomplicated watch, lacking either the classic alarm or the more impressive chronograph/world timer functionality. And while it’s not particularly complicated, it’s not entirely uncomplicated. I’m committing that most cardinal of watch nerd sins — opting for a watch with a date window. Really, though, I think the Polaris Date is the key piece in the Polaris collection. It’s got a lot going for it. First of all, the case is pretty awesome: 42mm across, and 13.1mm high places it in proper Goldilocks territory, and the finishes are, as you should expect from JLC, outstanding. And while the leather and rubber straps on offer are great, I think the new ‘H-link’ bracelet is great, and adds a dressy touch. Interestingly enough, even though we photographed this watch on the bracelet, it’s not offered on the bracelet as a standard option, and would have to be a special order – something worth considering If the case and bracelet are pretty great, I’m even more into the dial.…
Editor’s note: Colour is great, but sometimes all you need is the pure simplicity of unvarnished (but very nicely brushed) steel. Which is exactly what the pared-back Black Bay Steel offers. In spades. The story in a second: When the going gets tough, wear a Black Bay Steel. Did you know that this year the Black Bay family is five years old? Well, it is, and the fundamental design isn’t showing any signs of flagging. Case in point is this watch, which represents the Black Bay stripped back to its essentials. The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel. The case There’s not too much to be said about the case of the Black Bay Steel that hasn’t already been said about every other Black Bay. It’s steel, it’s 41mm across and has those high, smooth sides that make the Black Bay such an easy watch to spot from under a cuff — though it must be said the big Tudor rose on the crown is a bit of a giveaway, too. The real point of difference here is, as you’d expect, the bezel. The watch takes its name from the radially brushed steel bezel, and while in style and design it’s…
Editor’s note: I really don’t need a moon phase (heck, I really don’t need a mechanical watch, but that’s something else entirely), but I really want one. There’s just something so pointlessly romantic about the whole proposition of knowing your wax from your wane that just gets me (in fact, that same sentiment applies to mechanical watches in general). And one of the most charming options in recent times is this beauty from JLC … ‘Novelty’ is one of the most abused words in the watch industry. Practically, it’s used to describe the steady stream of new models and designs being produced by watchmaking brands. But on top of that, it conveys a sense of newness and — marketing departments fervently hope — excitement. For example, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2017 novelties were their Master Control trilogy — they excited people, and rightfully so. And while this grey-dialled Master Ultra Thin Moon is a new release, it’s not really a novelty — it didn’t make headlines at SIHH, and doesn’t showcase any innovations in mechanics or material. But despite this (or perhaps because of it), this serious, ghostly grey Master Ultra Thin Moon is an exceptionally beautiful piece of watchmaking, the sort that JLC excels…
A few months ago I ended up wearing the Omega Seamaster 300 for a month or so. Now, unusually for me, this wasn’t a PR sample or anything, but an actual real watch, that I borrowed off a mate who wanted to try one of my watches on for size. Now, I’m typically hesitant to do this, as I would hate something to happen to the watch when it’s in my care. “Don’t worry,” said my mate, “I’m not precious.” Somewhat comforted by these words, I made my way to a local cafe to complete the hand-off. Several coffees and much amiable watch banter later, I walked off with the Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial (to give it its full name) buckled onto my wrist. My first impression was … jeez, he really wasn’t joking about not being precious — this watch is well-loved. Which is something I don’t get to see too much. The watches I review typically come in box-fresh condition, but that’s not what happens in the real world. Buckles, one of the main points where your watch meets the world, quickly gain a unique, swirled and dented character all their own, and the watch behind tells a tale…
It would be a mistake to assume that a love of watches is just a love of watches. What might seem like a casual interest or hobby, can, when left unchecked, become a fully blown lifestyle — resulting in everything from apparel (hands up who has a watch brand hat or five in the cupboard), through to drawers full of straps and other, more esoteric, paraphernalia. It’s this last bit that our friends over at Fratello address in this excellent, and dangerously informative list, which is perfectly timed for the holiday period. Excuse me while I head over to eBay to hunt for a demagnetiser … Head over to Fratello for the full story.
Editor’s note: ‘Wait list’ might well be the phrase of the year for watch fans. Demand, especially on steel sports watches, has seemingly never been higher, with mere mortal consumers faced with two options. A healthy wait, or a hefty premium. I originally wrote this piece around a year ago, and some of my (then) more readily available alternatives are now in high demand. Not as high as the Nautilus though … You don’t need to sell us on Patek’s 5711/1A. It’s the Nautilus. In fact, you might go so far as to say it’s the steel sports watch. The case, the dial – that bracelet. Heck, even the date. It all works. The only bad thing about it? Unless you’re seriously connected, you can’t just walk into your local AD, drop the $32,300 AUD and walk out with it on your wrist. You need to wait. And I think we can all agree that waiting sucks. So don’t. Here are five excellent options to scratch that itch a whole lot quicker. Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar It might not be a Genta-designed icon, but Glashütte’s latest is a traditionally styled perpetual calendar with a thoroughly modern movement and…
On Monday, October 29 we threw a party to celebrate the launch of our new magazine. At least that’s what we said the party was about. In Felix and my opening speech, though, we admitted that it was at least as much, if not more, about thanking our readers and the local watch industry that had supported us “since 2014”. Because these are the people, in addition to the actual core team, who built Time+Tide. It was perhaps the brightest highlight of our nearly five-year history as a watch publication. It was a Monday. But few seemed to notice. It was awesome. [BUY THE MAGAZINE NOW] We hosted the event at Time+Tide’s Cremorne headquarters in Melbourne, which was elevated somewhat, not only by our daily coffee-drinking gatekeeper Steve McQueen (photographed by the legendary Ron Galella), but also a Ferrari Portofino, which hinted to guests as to what was to come. Special guests included actor Rodger Corser (the only man on earth who both my mum and wife have a crush on), transformation coach team Chief Brabon and Emilie Brabon-Hames, Co-Founder of Four Pillars Gin Matt Jones, Chin Chin head chef Benjamin Cooper, and leading watch industry figures, including General Manager of Rolex Patrick Boutellier, General…
In about a week’s time (November 9 Swiss time, to be exact), the watch industry’s night of nights – the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – will be just wrapping up, and it goes without saying that the after-parties will be pumping. Though some may be bigger than others, with the anticipation finally over and the event’s winners officially announced. We can’t wait that long, however, and our excitement is starting to show, so we’ve compiled a list of eight watches that we’d love to see take a gong home this year, with one small restriction — they must cost less than 10,000 CHF. Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Re-creation Let’s start this list on a high – a hi-beat, that is. And the first watch we’d love to see take home a prize is Seiko’s re-creation of their OG hi-beat diver, the SLA025. Not only is it an incredibly faithful re-creation of the original, but it also pairs two of Seiko’s best – Zaratsu polishing, and a Grand Seiko movement. 6500 CHF ($8500 AUD) Habring2 Doppel-Felix During his time at IWC, Richard Habring essentially opened up the split-seconds chronograph to the masses, streamlining the complication and making it far more affordable…