IN-DEPTH: The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport has earned the right to take a trick from a rival
Ok, here’s a fact: The Rolex Daytona owes a debt to the Zenith El Primero. A modified version of the El Primero movement powered the Daytona for 12 years, and marked the first automatic Daytona models. This all happened when I was merely 12 years old, in 1988. And now, Zenith is taking that debt back with a black ceramic bezel twist that dawns a new era and a new name, in the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. There’s some pretty nifty mechanical trickery going on with the new 10th of a second caliber, too, but we will get to this once the initial impression wears off, and is – in my opinion – thoroughly justified. The Zenith El Primero is famous for two reasons. One, as a watch that deserves to be called iconic even amongst the most towering icons, and that holds various important claims in the pantheon of 20th Century watchmaking, including, but not limited to the first fully integrated, Swiss made, self-winding automatic chronograph, hence the name, El Primero. The second is the El Primero’s fame as a movement alone. Even 19 years after its release in 1969, the movement was so reliable, robust and well regarded that…
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There’s a strong argument that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was the first real diver’s watch of its kind… and that’s because it was. It’s also true that the Rolex Submariner, which was also released in 1953, but after the Fathoms, did borrow some stylistic cues from the Blancpain. However, if any one watchmaker can claim to be the true king of waterproof watches, it’s the one owned by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation. To understand the genesis of the Rolex dive watch history, we must wind the clock all the way back to 1926, when Rolex first patented and launched the prodigious “Oyster Case”. This was the first truly waterproof watch, thanks to its screw-down caseback and, more importantly, screw-down crown. Rolex held the patent for this new feat of engineering and it meant that even almost 30 years later, watches like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms couldn’t use a screw-down crown and were compromised as a result. Hans Wilsdorf, co-founder of Rolex and marketing genius, further demonstrated the Oyster Case’s waterproofed credentials a year after its unveiling, when he gave one of his Oyster watches to Mercedes Gleitze, a British swimmer who attempted to swim across the English Channel. Gleitze did…
We’ve all been there. It’s inevitable as a watch collector. You see a new watch that’s been released and immediately fall in love with it. You can’t get it out of your head, until you finally give in, and track one down in the metal. But once you have it in your hands, you realise how much better the rendered images from the brand made the watch look and it doesn’t live up to your expectations on your wrist. With the Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary collection, however, the opposite is true. It looks just as good on the wrist. Maybe even better. Here’s proof – in a collections of shots I’ve spotted on Instagram over the last few months, that show just why the Hublot design DNA is standing the test of time. @equationdutemps If you aren’t following @equationdutemps yet, do yourself a favour and check out his ‘gram. In this shot of the Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary reference in titanium he manages to capture not only the mirror polished bevels and satin polishing of the rest of the case, but also the inky depths of that jet black dial. Don’t stare at it for too…
Oris is well known in the watch world for making high quality timepieces that offer serious value. While less expensive than many of their competitors, Oris still uses top-notch materials like ceramic bezels and also now incorporates in-house calibers. By making the latest technology more accessible to buyers, the brand has cultivated a devout following. One material Oris has seriously mastered is bronze, having gone so far as to even produce a bronze chronograph with a bronze bracelet – totally unheard of in watchmaking. Today, Oris returns with a new bronze watch – their latest collaboration with the Carl Brashear Foundation: the Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition that features a new dial, movement and strap. A production of 2000 watches, the Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition case is 40mm in diameter and completely made from bronze (aside from its solid stainless-steel engraved caseback). The bronze bezel has a frosted texture and finish, and while most timing bezels only convey every minute up to the 15h, here we have a full timing scale etched in relief. Protecting the dial is a domed (on both sides) sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on its underside. The watch utilises…
Bulgari has enjoyed a real hot streak over the past few years, throwing their hat into the ring of haute ultra-thin watchmaking. The Octo Finissimo has delivered the most refreshing entry into the integrated-bracelet watch category with its distinct, architectural design unlike anything else in the market. To some, Bulgari designs still remain a matter of love or hate with no in between. But this polarising effect is primarily the result of the brand’s success in creating genuinely original designs. The brand’s creativity and willingness to risk departing from the usual horological templates are qualities that are ultimately much needed and welcomed in the watch world. Here are my three favourite Bulgari releases of 2020. The Bulgari Aluminium Watch While a revived design, the Bulgari Aluminium is still a very original watch that other manufacturers have never dared to imitate. As an offering, it presents great value to collectors looking for an entry-level luxury watch. It strikes a balance between robust sportiness and elegant design, its case and strap form distinctly expressing the Bulgari flavor. The lightweight aluminium results in an incredibly pleasant daily wear experience while the rubber bracelet interlaced with aluminium links conforms well to the wrist and…
When we think of watchmakers, we immediately think of European and Japanese artisans. But to ensure our watches remain in tip-top shape, watchmakers around the world and of varying backgrounds all work hard to ensure the immortality of our timepieces. Earlier this month AFP via Prestige shone a spotlight on 52 year-old Youssef Abdelkarim, a third-generation watchmaker in Baghdad. Thousands of watches fill his workshop, and Abdelkarim diligently spends his days at his desk working his way through the queue of watches that need his care and attention to fix. According to AFP, “Abdelkarim began fixing watches at the age of 11, after the death of his paternal grandfather, who opened the store in the 1940s. His grandfather had already passed the trade onto his own son, who began to teach Youssef.” During his days in his shop, Youssef Abdelkarim can be seen repairing anything from a cheap Sigma watch to a coveted Patek Philippe. He even claims to have possibly repaired a watch that belonged to former dictator Saddam Hussein. He explained to AFP, “It was a rare watch brought to me by the presidential palace, with Saddam’s signature on the back.” It apparently cost 400 Iraqi dinars to…
When a watch enthusiast approaches a timepiece, they usually ask about specifications like case diameter or movement caliber first. Most people, however, will first want to know the price. It can prove a bit of a shock that such a small object can have such a high price tag. It is no secret that luxury branding is one element of increased prices and margins. But another more genuine factor of the cost of a watch is the actual time it takes to develop, decorate and assemble. Back in 2014, Patek Philippe president and CEO Theirry Stern explained in an interview that some of their creations can take six years to make – possibly even more for their most complicated references. Last month, Matthew Catellier explored this aspect of production in an article for Forbes. It’s a reminder of the extensive research and development, assembly time and quality control that each watch undergoes and that also might ease the minds of those who feel they’ve spent too much money on a watch. According to Thierry Stern, “A simple movement is minimum four years of work before you can present it. A complicated one, we’re talking about six years approximately. And a…
We love the fresh pop of Doxa colours – what an easy way to brighten up your day. But what’s your favourite? Are you a monochrome black Shark Hunter, or an orange Professional traditionalist? We put this to the team in an editorial meeting and a heated discussion ensued, recorded for posterity by yours truly to be shared here. Should you feel like submerging yourself further in the deep, check our story on the latest Sub 200s here, and the Sub 300s here Fergus Nash: Yellow “I know orange is the Doxa colour, but to me the ‘Divingstar’ yellow just hits a much sweeter spot. The pastel dandelion tone creates a much more pleasing contrast with the black text and white lume to my eye, giving a cartoonish yet still professional feeling. To this day, the yellow Sub 200 on rubber remains the only watch I have ever been complimented on by a total stranger.” Zach Blass: Orange “Why orange you ask? Because can anything really top the OG? The orange dials of Doxa divers have become nothing short of iconic within the watch community, standing out from the pack of professional tool watches with typically tame toned dials. Is…
The watch landscape has changed massively over the last 20 years with an increased trend towards in-house calibers. No longer is ETA the only outlet for brands to source movements with Sellita effectively cloning ETA ebauches and Japanese providers such as Seiko, Miyota, and Citizen filling the void for even more cost-effective solutions. That being said, ETA movements are still pervasive throughout the industry in both modified and unmodified forms. One staple of their manufacture is the ETA 2824, which has been seen in watches across the decades in everything from vintage Tudor Submariners to Omega Seamasters prior to the co-axial era. Let’s take a look at some watches at various price points that use the ETA 2824 movement. Steinhart Ocean 39 Green Ceramic Gasp! I know, Steinhart made the list and I don’t blame you for asking why. The reality is, however, that what Steinhart lacks in originality they gain with very attractive price points – especially considering the solid build of their pieces. It’s quite incredible to be able to get a new watch under $500 USD with a ceramic bezel and a renowned ETA 2824 movement. If the horological plagiarism doesn’t irk you, it’s a quality entry-level…
We all dread the nightmare scenario of water damage in a watch. Water and watches is like Superman and kryptonite, too much exposure will wreck the timepiece. As soon as components are exposed to moisture, the process of oxidation and rust will begin and, as the days pass, render some of them irredeemable. Rolex makes some of the most robust and desirable watches in the world, but the increasingly luxurious nature of these products make some owners fearful of testing the professional capabilities of their tool watch. In a video released by Nicholas Hacko, a.k.a Master Watchmaker on YouTube, the Aussie watchmaker films the entire process of the restoration of a water exposed and highly rusted 1996 Rolex GMT Master II two-tone. And it’s clear people are curious to know what such a restoration entails – over the past two months the video has received over 1.7 million views! As you can see, this classic 1996 Rolex GMT Master II watch incurred serious water damage. The parts have developed significant rust on the rotor and even more so on the components below. While restorations can be pricey when they’re as extensive as this, we can all be thankful that it…