EVENT: Australian legends at the legendary launch of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris
Earlier this week, Jaeger-LeCoultre held the Australian launch of their brand new Polaris collection at Carriageworks in Sydney, and it was — to borrow Neil Patrick Harris’ line — legendary. In watchland, the Polaris is a legend in its own right (a watch I incidentally had the pleasure of seeing in its various stages of assembly), so it was only appropriate that Jaeger-LeCoultre assembled some local legends to celebrate its arrival on our shores. Sporting legend John Eales (this guy) officiated over the launch of the sporty line, dropping surprising titbits like the fact that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Vallée de Joux manufacture has its own rugby team (the fact that Eales politely suggested their skills were better suited to watchmaking is beside the point). Eales wasn’t the only legend in attendance; entertainment was provided not by your typically muted string quartet or jazz band, but rather by Australian rock royalty. Darren Middleton opened with a little song called My Happiness that he happened to have co-written while in legendary Brisbane band Powderfinger. Shortly after, he was joined by the equally legendary Kram (this guy) on drums, and finally by Davey Lane — guitarist for You Am I. Not a bad lineup for…
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In the world of vintage watch collection, ‘issued’ watches — timepieces that were supplied to military personnel — typically command a pretty penny, and brands with a history of producing timing instruments for armed services often lean on this heritage with military-inspired reissues. However, it’s not always so simple, as some brands are wary of glorifying conflict. Regardless of how the story is articulated, there’s no denying that the simple, clean and purposeful designs that so often characterise watches intended for military use is an attractive look, and not one that’s disappearing any time soon. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Hamilton is famous for its military watches, particular their simple, tough watches issued in the latter half of last century. It’s a legacy that lives on in their popular Khaki Field watches, and this 38mm, manually winding watch is one of the best we’ve seen in a long time. The dial is ultra-spartan, with an internal 24-hour track, vintage lume and nylon strap. But the real winner is the price. 450 CHF. Omega Seamaster 1948 Small Seconds Now this is a bit of a tricky one, as the Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition takes its design cues from the first Seamaster, a…
Late last year, one of the more surprising (and contentious) inclusions in my “best watches of 2017” list was the Apple Watch Series 3. For me, the addition of cellular functionality made the already formidable smart watch that much more intimidating — and appealing. So, as you can imagine, I was keen to get my hands on one for review, and just after SIHH a courier dropped one off at my desk. Fast forward to now and I’ve had the grey ceramic Apple Watch Series 3 Edition on my wrist on and off for a few months. Did it live up to the phone-free utopia that I imagined when it was released? Well, obviously watch the video to get the full rundown but, spoiler alert, it turns out I’m just not ready to go iPhone cold turkey, but you could definitely do it, and I suspect that by the time Series 4 rolls around, it will have gotten even easier.
All that’s left of my Magnum days are my Rolex, a couple of Hawaiian shirts and my moustache comb. Tom Selleck is Magnum, P.I. For Selleck it’s clearly a career-defining role, and for the rest of the world it’s a cultural touchpoint for Ferraris, aloha shirts and exceptional moustaches. In this short but informative interview with the FHH Journal, the 73-year-old actor talks about how most of Magnum is in the past (he didn’t get to keep a Ferrari), but one prop that has lived on beyond the set is the iconic Rolex GMT-Master. Selleck explains how it’s been a constant life companion that can handle the knocks and is just as well suited to his new life as an organic avocado rancher (who knew!), as well as the slightly more adventurous life of a television detective. Worth a read, even if moustaches and Hawaiian shirts aren’t your thing. Oh, and don’t get me started on the reboot.
Over the last few weeks, all eyes have been on the major watch auctions taking place around the world, with more than a few standout results achieved for several interesting and unique watches. Wrapping up the spring sale season, Phillips yesterday held the Hong Kong Watch Auction: Six, with a total of 231 lots going under the hammer. As expected, Daytonas are still selling at premium prices, and rare and exciting Speedmasters are continuing their upward trend. What piqued our interest however (and by the look of the results, bidders’ interests as well) were these four incredibly rare — and possibly unique — watches that had similarly impressive results. First up is this Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542. This one isn’t just special because of its gloss dial and bakelite bezel. What sets this unique version apart is its left-handed case. While Rolex has been known to make left-handed pieces before, this is the only known version of a 6542. And is confirmed by the location of its reference number at 12 o’clock, and serial number at 6 o’clock. Estimate HK$640,000 – $960,000 (approx. $108,850 AUD — $163,250 AUD). Sold HK$2,125,000 or approx. $361,500 AUD Next is this one-of-a-kind Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic “unique piece”.…
There are two sides to Ulysse Nardin. One built on the high seas, and historically home to highly accurate marine chronometers. And another that pushes the boundaries of what’s possible in watchmaking, bursting with technical marvels and avant-garde designs. Falling heavily into the latter category is the Executive Skeleton Tourbillon. First introduced in 2016, its 45mm ultra-lightweight titanium case is topped off by a black ceramic bezel and a dial that allows full view through to the openworked UN-171 movement within. Showcasing what Ulysse Nardin does best. The movement features an impressive 170-hour power reserve, as well as a flying tourbillon – comprised of a silicium balance spring and escapement wheel – that takes its pride of place at six o’clock. While large, stylised Roman numerals and polished hour markers appear to float around a centred matte black rectangular bridge. And easy to read sword-style hands are given a coating of lume for maximum legibility. Perfect for your black suit and tie, nine-to-five type exec. If that’s not you however, and you’re after something a little better-fitting for your boardroom persona, Ulysse Nardin have since introduced newer versions of the Executive Skeleton Tourbillon, and below we’ve got your white-collared back,…
The watch industry is a well-oiled novelty-making machine. Every year it produces a sea of new releases that quickly turns the tide of attention from the old towards the latest and greatest in the world of watchmaking. Occasionally, though, it’s nice to stop and look back on the watches that we might have missed. Watches like this one: the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II. With a brand history that dates back to the American railroad in 1891, and more than a couple of technically nifty details, I quickly jumped at the chance to try one out in the metal. Vital statistics Released in 2015, the design of the Skindiver II is inspired by a 1962 version of the Ball Skindiver, retaining the classic look of the Skindiver case, and upsizing it to 43mm wide and 14mm thick. With the larger case comes an improved water resistance of 500 metres, as well as a helium escape valve, a shock resistance of 5000Gs, and an antimagnetic rating of 4800 A/m. However, the shining star is its multidimensional black dial and the 15 double-sized micro gas tubes that form the hour markers and glowing elements of the hands. Unlike a coating of lume,…
Case profile. There, I said it. It might not be as sexy as the movement or the dial, but in terms of real-world user-friendliness, it’s the kingmaker or deal-breaker. The problem is, watchmakers and fans are conditioned to a very top-down visual approach of watches. Look at any brand’s site, or most of the watches on Instagram, and what do you see? Dials. A whole lot of dials. And, honestly, it makes sense. The top-down dial shot encompasses most of what a watch is about. The dial is the visual star, and a typical wrist shot at least gives you some sense of what a watch looks like on the wrist, but it doesn’t really give you any sense of what it’s like to wear a watch on the wrist, because —and this seems bleedingly obvious to state — a watch is a three-dimensional object. At T+T we’re pretty big on trying to get you as close as possible to what a watch is like IRL, which is why we spend a lot of time on our video reviews, and are occasionally guilty of the odd bit of wristroll spam. Because proportion matters, and in an age when we’re buying watches…
It’s no secret that the vintage watch market is booming. Take a peek at recent results from the big watch auctions by the likes of Phillips and Christie’s and you’ll see that prices are on the rise. Great news for those who have collections that are more akin to a retirement nest egg. But for us lesser folk who are just looking to find our way into the game, it’s becoming increasingly hard to find good value vintage timepieces. However, while the market may be dark and full of terrors, there’s still hope. Take two-tone, for example. Once trendy steel and yellow watches typically costing less than their all stainless-steel counterparts, their cool factor is finally on the rise again, making it the perfect time for bargain hunting. As always, when buying vintage, it’s wise to tread carefully. And the combination of steel and gold is not without its own pitfalls. With things to be aware of, like the dangers of gold plating and the obvious Patrick Bateman association. However, if you do your homework and can learn to embrace the two-tone, there’s still plenty of value to be found. Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800 A slightly smaller version of the…
At Baselworld this year, I met Mr Biver for the very first time. And I can say, with complete conviction, that he was every bit the personality and man I expected him to be. He is one of the rare few who has well and truly left his mark on Swiss watchmaking. And played a big part in bringing the industry back from the brink of the ’70s “quartz crisis”. He’s also at his absolute best in this short interview with Wired, where he gives insight into his time in the industry and how he makes the most of his time. From a hippie commune to CEO, he explains why you shouldn’t work, never sleep, and only use email.