LIST: 9 things you could buy instead of an H. Moser & Cie Pioneer in steel for the same money
Full disclosure. Earlier this year I bought an H. Moser & Cie Pioneer in steel with a blue dial. So the brand’s recent anti-campaign called ‘The Pioneer Chronicles’, which is, in actuality, as much about calling B.S on Swiss watch marketing departments as it is about the watch itself, was well and truly after the fact. What were my reasons then, if not inspired by a campaign that has basically sent the message that #realtalk is to be the ongoing lingua franca from the Schaffhausen-based brand? I will save that confessional for another story. Today, I want to share with you some options of other things you could buy for around 20 grand Aussie (or about 13k USD) that weren’t to hand when I was in the decision-making zone. Wonderfully, they were sourced by Moser. The list was published as part of the ‘Pioneer Chronicles’ and it exemplifies the way the brand are going about it – a patented, potent mix of unvarnished straight talk, cheekiness and in this case, practicality. I mean, a Pioneer in steel, or three weeks at the Bellagio in Vegas? The answers don’t always write themselves. Before we begin, I’ll pass the mic to Moser: “At H.…
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Not to get too metaphysical with you on a Saturday morning, but does three watches count as a list? Honestly, I’m not sure, and the truth is I couldn’t find too many more ‘true’ champagne dials that were released in 2018. Silver, and other variations thereof, sure. And there’s even one or two I can think of that aren’t *technically* public yet, but proper, cork-popping champagne? Not so many. Why is that so? Perhaps it’s because champagne is an acquired and, dare I say, sophisticated taste. Anyway, here’s the three different flavours of Champagne. Tudor Black Bay S&G Champagne A dial variant of last year’s two-tone number, this version swaps out pedestrian black for fantastic champagne! Though if we’re really honest, it looks, well, gold. Ah, well. Montblanc 1858 Automatic Montblanc’s dials have rocketed to the next level in 2018, with this smoky, gradated champagne number being a case in point. And while it’s offered on the chronograph versions too, this simple 1858 Automatic is our personal pick. Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA373 It should surprise precisely no one that Grand Seiko is on this list. Those who know, know their champagne dials are amongst their finest (and most understated)…
The story in a second: A funky and practical Hublot packed with style and substance. Launched early last year in Geneva, the Big Bang Unico GMT — which technically is a dual time zone watch and not a true GMT, as there’s no hand running on a 24-hour scale — is the first arrival in the Big Bang family with a multiple time zone indication, powered by a then new in-house caliber with a few tricks up its sleeve. Offered in King Gold, carbon, and titanium casing options, we were instantly drawn to the relatively understated appearance of the titanium model. Practical and understated aren’t often words that come to mind when the name Hublot is part of the conversation (case in point, the recently launched Unico Red Magic chronograph), giving us further grounds to dive into the new piece to see if it has the chops to convert some of those less keen on the perpetually polarising brand. The case Being part of the Big Bang line, the case of the Unico GMT Titanium is business as usual for the most part. A mix of polished and brushed finishing (though Hublot refers to it as “satin” finishing), blue and…
Editor’s Note: It’s easy (too easy, really) to pigeonhole a brand, often unfairly. For me, my first association with Breguet was all fluted cases, engine-turned dials and precious metal cases. To be fair, the brand does all those things exceptionally well, but you know what else they do pretty darned well? Steel sports watches, like this Type XXI 3817 … Turns out that Breguet, not content with nailing the brief when it comes to dress watches and innovating left, right and centre are also quite the dab hand when it comes to pilot’s watches. And they’re no Johnny-come-latelies at the genre, either. In fact, in the early 20th century, Abraham-Louis Breguet’s grandson — Louis Charles Breguet — made planes under the name of Breguet Aviation. There is no connection, however, between Louis Charles’ aeronautical business and the Type 20 chronograph that inspired the Type XXI 3817 that we’re looking at today. It’s important to note that Type 20 and 21 chronographs used by the French Air Force in the early ’50s were made by a variety of suppliers. A group of six brands produced them according to a set of minimum requirements covering off form and function, with key features being the flyback chronograph, rotating 12-hour bezel and some fairly rigorous accuracy…
At Baselworld this year we saw Rado doubling down with two new limited-edition versions of their everyday and sporty HyperChrome chronograph. The first version, the HyperChrome Bronze, takes its form inside a case crafted from a combination of high-tech ceramic and bronze. While the second opens up its ceramic case, foregoing a traditional dial and skeletonizing the movement. Earlier this week I went hands-on with the patina-friendly bronze version, and today it’s time to take a peek at (and through) the stripped back dial of the aptly named HyperChrome Skeleton. Vital statistics Consisting of an inner monobloc ceramic case with stainless-steel side inserts, and chronograph pushers and crown, the 45mm case is water resistant to 100 metres. Steel sides are polished, while the ceramic components are fired with a black pigment inside a high-tech oven at 1450°C, creating the super hard and lightweight case that is then extensively sandblasted to a matt finish – except for the ceramic bezel, which is polished and engraved with a tachymeter scale. Sapphire crystal on the front and back gives a view through to the openworked ETA 2894-2 chronograph movement inside. With its plate and bridges cut away into a latticework, and exposing its…
It was clear from Zenith’s 2018 collection that the Defy line was a major priority. Because while there were Pilot, Chronomaster and Elite models on offer, the Defy was the star of the show, with everything from the awesomely complex El Primero Zero G through to the comparatively simple, but still quality, Defy Classics. It’s easy to see why this line is the focus — it’s a bold, distinctive look, with a modern case shape and a tendency towards contemporary materials, but the overall package is still stylistically versatile. But perhaps most important of all, it’s a look that will perhaps open the brand up to a whole new audience.
Having previously reviewed the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla, I thought it was time to explore some more of the British microbrand’s offerings. Enter the Farer Lander GMT Automatic, one of three pieces within Farer’s GMT Automatic range. As I unboxed the Lander, the first thing that grabbed my attention was the dial. Farer describes the colour as ‘sea green’, which, when you think about it, is quite an accurate description. Bursting with colour, the dial has a sunburst-style finishing, meaning the moment you walk outside into the sunlight it takes on a new appearance. This was my favourite feature of the watch and looked great when contrasted with the dark brown strap. There’s a lot of other detail in the dial, which Farer refer to as a ‘triple step dial’. The bold font of the hour numerals features a SuperLuminova outline, which adds an additional layer of depth and colour to the vibrant orange GMT hand that follows a smaller 24-hour clock around the dial. Finishing off the dial is a gunmetal silver outer rim, which is home to the second track. Although there’s plenty going on here, the dial doesn’t at all feel clustered, and remains legible — even in…
Effectively a new dial and case metal of an existing reference, initially launched in white gold with a blue dial, what makes this new version of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time really interesting is the way it was unveiled, and the sister piece that accompanies it. It’s hard to believe, but Patek Philippe finally joined the modern world of social media in the week leading up to Baselworld 2018, and their first big announcement through the channel was this new release, alongside a “ladies version” measuring 37.5mm in diameter, which has been dubbed the ref. 7234R. Both sizes are powered by the same caliber, and, quite frankly, both are within a conservative size range that could be worn by either gender without the faintest question. Because the duo of chocolate brown gems are so similar other than in diameter, we’re focusing our attention on the bigger of the two pieces: the Ref. 5524 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. Vital statistics First things first, when images were released of the new Calatrava Pilot I wasn’t quite sold. There was quite a bit of debate out there when the initial Calatrava Pilot surfaced, and what business Patek Philippe really had in getting into…
Editor’s note: If I needed any further proof that the ’90s were back in a big way, it was seeing a 20-something friend of a friend with a Stussy tattoo on their wrist. For me, that sealed the deal. And while street/skate style has been an accepted new norm in the world of fashion for sometime now, the cycle of fashion turns a little slower in the watch industry. But it does turn, as the return to favour of yellow gold and two-tone shows. So, in that spirit, here are nine watchmaking innovations from the ’90s that challenge the common perception that it was the decade that horological innovation forgot. Sitting between the now nostalgia-laden ’80s and the innovation explosion of the 2000s, the 1990s is seen as something of a watchmaking wasteland, a bold (and brash) period that’s currently out of fashion, but not far enough away to be viewed through the rose-tinted glasses of history. But were the ’90s really a write-off? Here are nine groundbreaking ’90s watches that redeem watchmaking’s forgotten decade. 1991 – Audemars Piguet Star Wheel What is it? Watchmakers are, by and large, bound by tradition and stick to tried and true methods, like…