INTRODUCING: The Longines HydroConquest, now with ceramic bezel
Longines are expanding their HydroConquest collection for 2018 with new models featuring a bezel with a coloured ceramic insert matched to the colour of the dial. Vital statistics Longines are expanding their HydroConquest collection for 2018 with new models featuring a bezel with a coloured ceramic insert matched to the colour of the dial. The existing characteristics of this collection remain, including water-resistance to 300 metres, a unidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crown and case back, crown protection, hands and the hour markers applied with SuperLuminova, and a double security folding clasp with integrated diving extension. There are new grey, black and blue sunray dials and a new rubber strap in colours that match the dial, which is said to be more ergonomic and more comfortable. The metal bracelet version combines polished and brushed steel. The new HydroConquest is available in 41mm and 43mm sizes for models with three hands and a calendar, and 41mm for the chronograph model. Initial thoughts You don’t need to mention the Big Crown here to reiterate what a ceramic bezel — with all its show-stealing shine, modernity and scratch resistance — can make to a legit dive watch’s appeal. It’s unlikely to have that kind of riotous…
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The all-mechanical Longines Master Collection, the best-selling in the brand’s portfolio, expands to offer Longines’ first ever annual calendar. For those who are wondering, an annual calendar watch automatically manages the varying lengths of the months. This allows the timepieces to distinguish between a month with 30 days and a month with 31 days for example, with little intervention. The Longines Master Collection is the first range from Longines to house this feature. Vital Statistics As recently as 2005, Longines launched the Master Collection, and it proved to be a line that would pave the way forward while remaining faithful to Longines’ 185-year history. It is traditional without bordering on twee, classic with enough nuance to avoid being boring, and it moves just enough with the times to play to modern tastes. Best of all, it does all this while including those on modest budgets. Now with an annual calendar to play alongside highly complicated models, it will also strongly appeal to those who actually use their watch to remind themselves of the day and date as well. The Master Collection Annual Calendar houses the new automatic L897 caliber in a 40mm stainless-steel case. It has 64 hours of power reserve…
As they did with their Calibre 111, Oris have chosen Baselworld to debut their latest in-house produced movement, with the Calibre 114, in their ever popular ProPilot collection, being launched at Basel 2018. It’s the fifth Oris-made movement to be introduced into their catalogue since 2014. This one comes with all the fun of the Calibre 111 and adds a GMT hand to the centre of the dial. Because, really, what better complication is there for a pilot’s watch? Vital statistics Not much has changed style-wise with the case of this latest ProPilot. It still measures 44mm across, is water resistant to 100m, and features that defining milled coin edge bezel and an oversized crown. The biggest difference is within. Inside is their brand new manual wind calibre with date, small seconds, a 10-day power reserve, and added centre GMT function that will also support half-hour time zones. Looking to the dial and there are two colours to choose from: an anthracite with sunray polish, and a matt black. Both with applied Arabic numerals printed with lume, a date window and small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, and the familiar power reserve display at 3 o’clock. At the tip of…
Without a doubt, the standout hit for Oris in recent years has been the Divers Sixty-Five, and for good reason, mind you. First released in 2015, it remained faithful to its inspiration – a model from (you guessed it) 1965 – and nailed the vintage vibe. Instantly becoming a crowd-favourite, and quickly followed up by different dial variations with applied dot and baton indices and a 42mm case, as well as bronzed beauties like the Carl Brashear limited editions. Now home to more than two dozen models, Baselworld 2018 sees the collection grow by two, with the release of the Divers Sixty-Five Bi-Colour in both 40 and 36mm. Vital statistics A different take on the classic two-tone approach, the outer ring of the black aluminium inlayed bezel is now bronze, adding a flash of colour that will patina over time. And the stainless-steel case, while still rated to 100m, has returned to 40mm and is joined by a very lady (or small wrist) friendly 36mm version. Both sporting black dials under their domed crystals, with rose gold-plated applied indices and hands, filled with a creamy lume. There’s also a greater sense of symmetry, with the date moved back to 6 o’clock…
The pointer date is one of Oris’ most recognisable complications. Making its debut in 1938, it wasn’t until it was reintroduced in 1984 that it became a regular part of the catalogue. Paired with another of Oris’ signature designs, the heritage-inspired Big Crown pilot’s watch, Baselworld 2018 sees a couple of fresh-faced dials, as well as a 36mm version cased in two very different metals, added to the family. Vital statistics What we have are two versions of the same design, one with a 40mm case, and the other with a 36mm case. Both are water resistant to 50m and have a screw-down crown. And both use the historic pointer date complication – with a red crescent moon-tipped central hand – to indicate the date on the outside of the dial. The main differences, other than their size, lie in the choice of colourways and case material. The 36mm version introduces an idyllic light green dial and pairs it with either a stainless steel or patina-friendly bronze case. While the 40mm sticks to a stainless steel-only construction and introduces a brand-new light blue dial to the equation. Of course, both still feature the familiar big crown and coin-edged bezel, which, along with…
IWC fans rejoice – the Schaffhausen-based brand has finally found an Australian home, in the heart of Melbourne. Designed by IWC’s own architects, the boutique is located at 360 Collins Street, the city’s premier luxury shopping street, already home to many fine watch brands. But the really exciting news for fans is that the boutique means that Australia is finally in the game for those elusive boutique-only editions, and hard-to-find high-end pieces. For example, it will be the only place you’ll be able to get your hands on the super-hot 150th anniversary Big Pilot Big Date when it arrives later in the year. Until then, here are three hot watches in-store right now. Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII Edition ‘Tribute to Mark XI’ Ever since this watch dropped late last year — with its nigh on perfect mix of old and new — we’ve been dying to get our hands on one. Looks like we know where to go now. Portugieser Tourbillon Hand-Wound From the simple to the complex, the large, clean palette of the Portugieser is the perfect canvas for IWC’s gorgeous tourbillon. Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Most people typically think of the Ingenieur as a sportier collection, but…
Editor’s note: Today’s review is a little unusual on several accounts. Most significantly it’s of a watch that’s been discontinued for seven years. Given this fact, Bruce (of BLNR fame) has written a more personal, evocative piece, which makes sense as much ink has already been shed in tribute to the details and intricacies of this particular Rolex Explorer II. So why talk about it now? Well, I’m of the firm belief that the star of the Explorer II is on the rise — especially the polar version — so it’s the perfect time to shine a little light on it. Plus, you never know what we’ll see at Basel tomorrow … Back when I was shopping for my first Rolex, I was offered a ‘new old stock’ Explorer II 16570 by the local boutique at a decent discount. I brushed it off at the time due to a fixation with the Submariner (which ironically ended up as a Datejust) and also the limited knowledge that it was a past model and recently replaced by an improved 216570 in 42mm. Why in the world would I have bought that old 16570? It made no sense to me at the time.…
Stop us if you’ve heard, or seen, this one before (and the odds are increasingly high that you have, as this video was filmed a couple of years ago), but as unbelievable as it may be to the watch journos in the house, some people don’t have any clue what this ‘Basel’ thing is and what being there is actually like. The Time+Tide team is in various states of migration, all heading from different points – Dubai, Canada, Brisbane, Amsterdam, Melbourne – to Basel, and while we’re travelling, I guarantee you one thing: when you say you’re going to Baselworld, you more often than not get met with blank looks. Airline staff, family members, non-watch-addicted friends. Look, the concept is comprehensible enough. A watch fair. A lot of hype. An exhibition hall. But that just doesn’t cut it. I say over and over, “It’s BIGGER than a ‘fair’, it’s more like a world expo, or Vegas, or …” Then I invariably reach into my pocket, hit the YouTube app and play this one again, Sam. It captures everything I love about the big dance, this big watch fair. The energy, the affluence, the bloated distortion of scale and perspective. It’s…
With Baselworld 2018 just around the corner, fevers around the Time+Tide office are running hot, contemplating what Rolex is likely to drop in Basel in a few days time. Looking back at Rolex releases in Basel over the past seven years, we assess some of the mic-dropping releases in the Rolex line-up and the likelihood of seeing updates to those models in 2018. 2017 – Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600 Boom. Probably the most talked about watch of Basel 2017, Rolex launched the new Sea-Dweller a mere three years after its previous incarnation, with a 43mm case (to some controversy), cyclops date window (to even more controversy) and red ‘Sea Dweller’ text on the dial (to no controversy at all). Chances of seeing a new Sea-Dweller at Basel 2018? Somewhere between ‘never’ and ‘impossible’. 2017 – Rolex Sky-Dweller in Rolesor Rolex made the Sky-Dweller available in stainless steel (with a white gold bezel) for the first time ever, with new dial variants and an accessible price (albeit not availability). The blue-on-blue and black-on-black dials simply stole the show. Chances of seeing a new Rolex Sky-Dweller at Basel 2018? Too soon. 2016 – Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King 116900 2016 saw Rolex put a steroid…
There’s a story, published by GQ way back in 2016, that periodically does the rounds of the T+T office, and not just because it has a snappy, hooky title (though it does). No, the appeal of Jessi Klein’s “Yes, there is a male engagement ring” runs a little deeper. Deeper even than that unbidden hope that our nearest and dearest will buy us the watch of our dreams (for some hints on how to make that happen, I suggest reading this). No, this article touches on the fundamentals of what a watch that’s built to last means. Timelessness, meaning, and if we’re really – really – honest … looking cool. If you haven’t read it, you should.