VIDEO: So, awkward, we’d never noticed the Longines Master Collection, until this watch…
When it comes to Longines’ yearly new releases we are like heatseeking missiles for the vintage fire the brand has at its disposal – few archives are as deep or as versatile as Longines, and it means they can pick and choose between adventurers watches, avant garde designs, classic dress, the options are almost endless and they impress with regularity. But, we rarely look at the everyday collections that, to put this bluntly, are the watches that the brand sell in staggering quantities. The Master Collection, for example. That is, until I noticed it for the first time at a launch in Sydney, last year. That discovery led to more discoveries. All of which are captured in this video, in which we look at the watch that won me over, and then explore the two bestselling models in Longines’ stunning Sydney boutique, in the Queen Victoria Building.
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The Time+Tide contingent on the ground at Baselworld 2018 is bigger, badder and more Basel-y than ever before. What this means, aside from unlocking #squadgoals achievements left, right and centre is more watches, coming at you in more ways than ever before. At the fundamental level the best way to stay up to speed is the site (that you’re currently reading), our YouTube channel, Facebook page and Instagram account. If you’ve bookmarked, subscribed, liked and followed them you’re already going to get a pretty thorough overview of Basel’s latest and greatest. But if you want to go backstage you can always follow the team’s individual accounts, that offer a slightly more personal take on the biggest watch fair of the year. Go on, you know you want to. Andy Green (@andygreenlive) What sort of stuff can we expect to see on your feed? Lots of watches, especially that I spot around the fair on the wrists of attendees. You can also expect quite a few wristrolls – you’ve been warned. What are you most anticipating/hoping to see at the fair? Generally speaking, I’m really hoping to see some of the big brands bust out new collections, and break away from…
In the world of F1, where everything is measured in tenths, watches have long played an integral part. In fact, it may come as no surprise to anyone that Formula One teams and watch manufacturers often follow the same racelines, each striving for their own breed of ultimate performance mechanical machine. This year, with the Australian Grand Prix coinciding with Baselworld, we thought we’d look back at last year’s partnerships and the watches of F1. Bell & Ross BR-X1 RS17 for the Renault Sport Formula One Team An F1 steering wheel for your wrist. The BR-X1 was one of three releases made in collaboration with the Renault Sport Team, combining a hi-tech Carbone Forgé case with a colourful dial inspired by the layout and livery of an F1 tiller. Owners beware: don’t let your eyes linger when taking them off the road to check the time on this one. RRP $35,000, limited to 250 pieces. Hublot Techframe Ferrari 70 years Tourbillon Chronograph for the Scuderia Ferrari Formula One team A lightweight chassis crafted in a lattice work of hi-tech materials, combined with a high performance state-of-the-art engine … no, I’m not talking about the latest supercar release from the prancing…
The Omega Seamaster Railmaster was one of the surprise hits of last year’s Basel fair. So it’s vaguely appropriate that as we’re busy speculating what we’ll see Omega release at Baselworld 2018, we look back on one of their hottest from last season. Not that we realised it at the time – the regular production Seamaster Railmaster was more of a slow burn. It’s a deceptively simple piece, lacking the hero status of its limited edition sibling, and somewhat lacking in obvious bells and whistles. Rather than being a weakness, this simplicity is the Railmaster’s greatest strength. Clean, pure design, of the sort that Omega excels at: classic, but with fine details — like the brushed dial and Railmaster text — that reward close inspection. But even though I’d be completely happy with this watch on my wrist, there’s a part of me holding out to see what gets unveiled next week …
The story in a second: A value-packed chrono from one of the few remaining family-owned watch companies. It wasn’t all doom and gloom during the quartz crisis of the mid ’70s. While brands and manufacturers were disappearing left, right and centre, never to be seen again, others like Raymond Weil were only just starting out, which makes them a relative newcomer to the watch world. However, unlike many others, they’ve managed to remain independent and create a diverse catalogue that’s bursting at the seams with collections like the Freelancer. Introduced in 2007, it’s now one of the mainstays of their line-up, and is not only available in standard three-handed models, but also in multi-subdialled chronographs, like this stylish little black and red number we have here. The case If you’re familiar with the Freelancer range, then you’ll already be well acquainted with the sensibly sized 42mm stainless-steel case. It’s purposeful in its design, sitting at a very reasonable thickness of 13.85mm, with both the chronograph pushers and the crown able to be screwed down. However, it’s not just about functionality, as a wonderful blend of highly polished and satin-brushed surfaces add a touch of class, and thin bevelled lugs play a…
If I’m completely honest, women’s watches aren’t my speciality, largely because they tend (notable exceptions aside) not to look the greatest on my fairly hairy 21cm wrist. But luckily — and thankfully — Sandra Lane is on the team. So rather than flounder my way through the intricacies of stone-setting and satin straps, I defer to Sandra’s insight and expertise. And what better setting for this than that most exclusive of Maisons (and SIHH newcomer) Hermès. Ironically enough, the Hermès Sandra opted for, the Carré H, isn’t a feminine model per se, but when it comes to some of her other picks — from the likes of Van Cleef & Arpels, the below Parmigiani Fleurier, and Audemars Piguet — there’s no doubt they’re intended for women’s wrists.
It’s a dizzying pace the watch world moves at, and it’s all but impossible for us at Time+Tide to not get carried along by it. But occasionally, very occasionally, we’ll see a watch on Instagram and be reminded that quality has its own designs. That the concept of a ‘modern classic’ – which, according to a recent poll, only 64% of you believe can actually be achieved in this age of hype and undersupply – requires time to make it real. And from an even less hyped point of view, some watches are just lovely to behold in the moment of discovery and then in the moments of recollection after that. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas is one such watch. There is, however, a risk that the object is always a joy to see for the memories it triggers. This little three-day voyage from 2016 was one of the most idyllic capsules of time I’ve ever been fortunate to experience. Lastly, to quote our original post on this collection, we can pose the question again, was it really necessary? To take a journey involving two flights (one of them aboard a very small plane) to a tropical island somewhere between Sydney and New…
Yesterday, we showed you the Seamaster Railmaster, a modern incarnation of the classic professional model. But it wasn’t the only Railmaster released last year. No, there’s also this watch, the limited edition 60th anniversary commemorative watch that formed (along with the Speedmaster and the Seamaster) one part of the triumvirate of watches that makes up the 1957 Trilogy series. The version not included in the boxed set is limited to 3557 pieces, and, like the rest of the trilogy, is a near perfect facsimile of the original. In fact, you could argue it’s more than perfect, as it preserves the form and proportions of the original, but adds modern construction and movement quality into the mix. Speaking of form, this Railmaster is superb: 38mm case, with polished and brushed finishes, a 19mm bracelet, a solid link update of the original, and a solid caseback, concealing the thoroughly contemporary Master Chronometer 8806 movement (which is, as you’d expect, significantly more resistant to magnetism than the ’57 version). And then there’s the dial. Pared back to the essentials — printed Omega logo and Railmaster text, cardinal hours and faded lume applied into dial recesses to offer maximal glow without the bulk of…
Well, at the end of a week that has focused on Panerai watches, the votes are in. In a recent Instagram poll, 66 per cent of you said that the Luminor is their preferred collection. About the same split could be seen in the comments on various posts. There’s little mystery as to why it wins. It’s all about that ingenious crown guard, that beefs up the cushion case and gives the Luminor its iconic, recognisable presence on the wrist. It could also have something to do with the sheer volume of movie and celebrity appearances the Luminor pulls each year. It’s a heavyweight fighter in the watch world and, given Panerai’s relatively diminutive size as a company compared to the big box brands, it punches well above its weight. To round out the week’s mini-series which compared them in the same video, then split out into two individual reviews, we have a Luminor Marina 8 Days Acciaio PAM 00590 in front of the lens now.
Here at Time+Tide we receive a lot – and I mean A LOT – of emails from young brands directing us to their new watch launching on Kickstarter. The humble platform that began as a way for up-and-coming designers to tender their ideas – and, if they were good enough, have them brought to life – now crowded by cookie-cutter designs, each touting the same old story. Sorting the good from the less good can be a massive task. However, every now and then, through the fog of “industry disruptors” and “affordable luxury”, shine a few gems that, at least we think, are worthy of a second take. Here are five examples from the sportier end of the Kickstarter spectrum. Laventure Marine The Laventure Marine can more than boast about its Swiss-made designation, with more than 90 per cent of the watch produced in Switzerland. With a 200m water-resistant case inspired by dive watches of the 1960s, namely the Patek Philippe Nautilus, this is a sports watch made for exploring. And it’s good-looking to boot, with a stunning array of colourful dial options – blue, green or brown – and a nicely decorated ETA 2824-2 movement inside. 1670 CHF. Moduco…